importtuner137

Alright, I'm havin' some issues with my 2nd gen TII swap. GXL chassi, went with a FMIC kit. (Waiting on Corksports VMIC) Alright, I had the engine recently rebuilt and streetported. Ever since I've had some idleing issues. When cold, like starting for the first time in the day, I have to hold the engine at 2k RPM's to let her warm up a bit before she'll idle on her own. I do have the thermo wax hooked up. And, the engine is 1k miles old so I shouldn't be having issues like that any more.

Also, my idle is about 500rpms lower when the engine is cold. At about 800 or so. As the engine warms up the rpms pick up. about 1200rpms. Now, I'd really like to be able to keep my idle below 1k just to keep gas consumption down as I do a lot of city driving. So, one day I tried turning the idle screw out once the engine warmed up. The idle was right where I wanted it. 750-900rpms. The next day when I started the car up though, the idle wasn't high enough to keep the engine running.

Last issue. When I push the clutch in, (coming to a stop light/sign) and slow down. The idle will be at about 1600k. As soon as I engage the clutch, assuming the car is out of gear, the idle will drop down to 1100-1200rpms. It'll stay there untill the next stop situation.

Any tips on how to fix these issues would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Scott

tigerbite

I kind of have the same issue. What kind of troubshooting have you done? All emmisions removed I am guessing? What are your mods?

importtuner137

Yes, all emissions removed aside from the thermowax. My only mods are the street porting and the FMIC.

importtuner137

Ugh, now my oil light is turning on for no reason I think... I've checked the oil and it is full full. But, the oill light comes on in the mornings intermittently, accompanied with the buzzer from hell. The buzzer has been coming on for no reason when I turn right and after I've come to a complete stop, it'll buzz untill I straighten out from steering to the right, or untill the car starts to roll forward.

How do I test to see if there's something in the oil pan causing trouble? I'd driven for 800 miles without a dip stick. Or, if it's a sensor/light problem?

And, is it time to pull the buzzer from hell? Or is it coming on for a reason without the lights coming on? The idiot light panel is havin' issues already I know that. (The E-Brake light doesn't always work when the E-Brake is pulled ect.