2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992) 1986-1992 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections.

idle changed: please look fc gods

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Old Aug 30, 2005 | 09:27 PM
  #26  
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Sorry to hear it. To the poster that mentioned the 750 idle, it should be in neutral for that.
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Old Aug 30, 2005 | 10:26 PM
  #27  
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In neutral, I sometimes idle at/close to 1500rpms. Sometimes, I might idle at 1k rpms.
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Old Aug 30, 2005 | 10:37 PM
  #28  
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Yea rebuild sorry. I was going to say if your only boosting stock boost with a 4in exhausts you got some other issues in hand.

The factory specs on most every car in production is 750 at idle with no load. When the AC is turned on it should jump to 1k and fluctuate slightly when you move the steering wheel until the ABV and BACV catch up to the motor load. Allot of users bump there idle up to 900 to 1k to reduce the initial drop in rpm when a load is initiated. Users that have removed all air control emissions and idle controls bump there idle up to around 900 to 1300 to prevent a large drop under idle loads.

Mura - Sounds like you have a Fast idle cam rattling lose and titer on you as well as a misadjusted TPS and possible VAC leak.
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Old Sep 6, 2005 | 07:52 AM
  #29  
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UPDATE:

so i spent the last weekend pulling out the engine took me 7hrs, never pulled a engine out before. yeah so that was fun. I found out more about my car in the process, i have a RE Amemiya's "redom" ecu. so that could explain how i blew my "stock" car. Also how can i tell what flywheel and clutch i have? is there a descriptive way so i can check it out.

Thanks.
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Old Sep 7, 2005 | 07:49 AM
  #30  
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xx

Last edited by stv; Sep 7, 2005 at 08:09 AM.
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Old Sep 7, 2005 | 11:08 AM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by iceblue

Mura - Sounds like you have a Fast idle cam rattling lose and titer on you as well as a misadjusted TPS and possible VAC leak.
Misadjusted TPS, and yes, a VAC leak. I'm assuming the Fast Idle cam is the screw on top of the TB? If I get out of class early enough, I'll be able to drive to my friends house and spray around in my engine bay to find the leak. My leak is noticable once warm. Usually, I'd be able to drive fast and hard, then stop at a light and watch it drop to about 600, then idle at 750. Now, I'll drive hard, stop at a light.....stall. If I'm driving easy, I'll have to tap the gas before it stalls. But I still love my car.

Last edited by Mura; Sep 7, 2005 at 11:11 AM.
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Old Sep 9, 2005 | 03:59 AM
  #32  
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My engine is back and back to long block now to just drop it in the car and hook everything back up and im done.

Tomrrow night ill be back on the road.

Going to buy a malpassi rising rate fuel regulator so i pump more fuel in at higher revs. Seeing as my car was the force of detonation.

Oh yeah i found out i have OS Giken Super Single Clutch that i didnt even know about. :|
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Old Sep 9, 2005 | 04:01 AM
  #33  
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***** i left out a detail, engine once pulled apart found i had chipped a seal pretty bad had to replace the housing but the rotor itself was reuseable. so you ladies and gents who said it was blown apex seal you win a point.
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