BlaCkPlaGUE

My idiot lights do not work at all, After searching for a couple hours I've found that people have had many problems with these things, as in they are always on, or they dim out and go off, etc. Everyone tells them that you need to resolder the cluster, but NO ONE shows where the cluster is, or what to exactly resolder!

So I figured that maybe the points inside the idiot light casing went bad, so I pulled them out, took out the casing and checked the points, I saw no sign of any bad points within the unit, so I sealed it back up and popped it back into the car.
In the faq it mentions that one of the fuses could be blown, just curious, but wich fuse is it that controls the idiot lights? There are no fuses labeled clock or idiot light, etc.
Is there another fuse panel that I don't know about? im checking the one on the drivers side behind the foot rest thingy.

thank you for your time.

BlaCkPlaGUE

I just finished cleaning out the plug in the back of the alternater as well, it was slightly dirty and I cleaned it as best I could, I also moved it in and out to naturally clean it sorta but still, the lights do not come on.

VietFC

when you resolder, what you do is.... where the plug goes into the idiot light cluster... the circuit is closed with all those pins. When you open up the idiot lights... you want to resolder where those same pins touch the circuit board. That supplies the grounds and power for all the lights to come on. I'm guessing you have a bad solder point on ur ground one. You want to resolder the whole group of pins just in case. And i don't believe there is a fuse for the idiot lights.

dr.jones63

I resoddered mine with limited sucess. Icemark is the man to have this problem fixed

http://mazdamark.com/serv01.htm

Icemark

Yep, you would need to remove all the old solder on the circuit board where the board meets the plug (as well as typically the ribbon cables and the clock mounting and connections).

You would not be able to see the cold solder joints unless they were very very bad and re-heating the joints is at best a temporary fix (you still have not removed the corrosion that is in the cold solder joint).

I also do rebuild them (as mentioned above) as well as have most models already rebuilt and ready to go, if you rather just purchase one straight out.

BlaCkPlaGUE

I actually sent you an email incemark yesterday regarding a new cpu for the problem. I didn't realize that the bad points are internally as well???

I dunno, but im gonna pull it out again and test the pins to the points using a voltmeter, then I'll know if they're hooped. If they are, i'll also be picking up the cpu and the cluster..