Aside from my post about my trailing coils not working, another little gremlin i have, which im not sure if it could be related, is the idiot lights don't all come on like they are supposed to when the car is in the run position before starting... I resoldered every point i could get to in the unit and no difference. the bulbs are good, and i know the lights work.. ie. the low coolant and fuel lights came on before i filled those fluids up, but dont come on with the key on. I havn't resoldered the cpu yet, are these two pieces linked? and is there any slight chance this electrical issue could be linked to my coil issue? thanks

 

make sure the small 2 wire plug is plugged in on the back of your alternator. If thats unplugged, your warning lights wont come on properly.

 

Probably needs rebuilding or replacing. I have rebuilt ones for most models available on my website, or you can try doing it yourself by resoldering the circuit boards in the clock/warning panel where the pins from plugs and wires meet.

 

I used the s5 alternator with the s4 harness, so i chopped it and used female spades. I did match the L to L and R to S, and i know i need to wire the R/S to constant instead of switched now, but i believe it should still function correctly with the ignition on? thanks mark, I may end up buying on of those from ya. do you buy cores? i have 2!

 

Remove the White/Black wire from the alternator. With the key to ON, touch the White/Black connector to ground. The alternator body will do for a ground. You should be able to hear the relay in the CPU click each time you touch the White/Black wire to ground.

When it clicks, the idiot lights should light up. Do they?

Make sure it's the White/Black wire and NOT the Black/White wire.

If the relay in the CPU clicks and the lights don't work, then try removing the plug from the CPU and with the key to ON, jumper a ground to the Yellow/Blue wire on the plug. The idiot lights should come on. If not, then the Meter fuse is kaput or something is wrong with the connector on the warning light assy.

 

Sorry but I`m gonna jack your thread for a second.

Icemark, I got one of your rebuilt clock/warning light units less than a year ago because the clock was shot in my old one. Only once since I installed the rebuilt has all the lights come on with the key in the on position. I know that the low coolant light, low oil light, E-brake light, hatch light, door ajar light and brake light bulb out light are good as all have come on at some point ( low coolant because heater hose below oil filter popped). I recently upgraded to one of silverrotors FD alternators and modified my S4 wiring for proper FD alternator operation. Do I still follow the recommendation from Hailers to troubleshoot this problem or is there something else I need to do?

Again sorry for "thread jacking"

 

If the White/Black wire is cut and not going anywhere, then there is nothing that is going to put a ground on the Alt Warning Relay in the CPU. That relay has to pull in and put a ground on the light circuit in the Warning LIght Tray/Unit for the lights to come on.

I don't quite understand the SilverRotor alt wiring where they won't/don't use the existing 12 on the Black/White wire for the voltage regulator and then use the white/black for the ground signal for the Alt Warning Relay in the CPU. Never really looked at it that much. I'll post a jpg of the alt circuit later.

 

Here

 

I had this problem before I upgraded the alternator. The only wiring change made to the alternator circuit is that the wire that used to be 12VDC only when the key was on is now rewired to a 12VDC constant hot (i.e. straight to the battery) . On the S4 the alternator received a 12VDC referance signal only when the key was on, the S5 and S6 (FD) received a constant 12VDC referance signal. The white wire with black stripe is still hooked up as it was before the alternator upgrade.

(2713ddddavid goes out to garage and tries grounding wire manually)

I just went out and double checked the wiring, its as described above. I grounded the white wire with the black stripe and turned the key on but still no "bulb check"
and I do not here any relays opening or closing as I manually ground/unground the wire!

Just to clarify, The "CPU" in question is the one on the passenger side inside the cabin, correct? This is where I need to put a jumper to ground on the yellow wire with the blue stripe?

 

Btt

 

No click when you grounded the White/Black wire and the key to ON. Bad.

Go to the CPU that is located one inch aft of the fuse box near your left foot.

Find the White/Black wire on the upper plug on the CPU. Get a piece of wire. Ground one end of that wire to a known ground. Touch the other end of that wire to the White/Black wire with the CPU plug connected. You'll have to back probe that white/black wire. Key ON. Still no click? Probably not.

If NOT, then remove the CPU plug. Find the YL, Yellow/Blue wire on the plug. It's the fourth one from the right on the top row. Put a ground on that wire with the plug not connected to the CPU. Did the idiot lights come on???? No? Then check the METER FUSE. IF the gauges work on the car then the METER fuse is good.

IF the light don't work it gets ugly. Remove the Warning Light/Clock assy. Pull its plug off. Find the Black/Yellow wire on the plug. With the key to ON, check and make sure there is 12vdc on that wire. Also check and make sure the pure black wire has a ground. Probably does.

The CPU has FB-01 or FB-05 written on its cover. Series four.

If you have the 12v on the Black/Yellow wire, then I'd say there is something wrong with the Warning Light/Clock unit. Does your clock work? Curious. It's fed from another fuse, the Cigar fuse *I think*.

So...what happens when you do the above?????

BE CAREFUL AND MAKE SURE ITS THE white/black WIRE YOU GROUND AND NOT THE black/white wire. You'd just pop the METER fuse if you do, but don't do it.

 

Ooops. The CLOCK is on the ROOM fuse. The rest is on the METER FUSE.