rx7b13

Any one run stance super sport + coilovers and what do you think about them?

http://www.stancecoiloversuperstore....port-coilovers

w0ppe

Nope! You should get a pair and let us know how they last
In the Datsun and Nissan world, seems like they're stiff, more comfortable than most coil-overs, yet they make a lot of noise. Hope that helps?

DeaconBlue

iTrader: (31)

First off let me say that I am most likely an old fart as far as you would be concerned. I use my FC for a nice weather daily driver. But set it up so that I can enjoy it on the street as well as on road course track day events. I do not take it to the drag race events, nor do I run it in autocross events.

I ran that exact Stance coil over set on my n/a FC for a couple of years. I knew ahead of time that the as supplied 9K/7K springs would be much too stiff for the not so smooth roads here in northern Ohio. I called their tech support line to find out the range of springs that can be used with the stock as supplied valving in the struts/shocks. They said I could go +/-1k in spring rates. So I tracked down a set of -1K springs, which works out to about 400 in/lbs in the front and 275 in/lbs in the rear. I set the struts and shocks at the softest setting, #1. At first I was very impressed with the handling - flat and very well controlled as it should be with RB sway bars, Mazdatrix link ends and 17x8.5" rims wearing 225/45-17 tires. The ride was a bit firm but not too harsh - at least at first. The coil over setup only had 2-1/2" of total travel vs. the stock setup of 8" in the front and 6" in the rear. I had setup the ride height to a "non-slammed" near normal stance which yielded about 1-7/8"to 2" of compression travel to maintain some level of compliance.

After two summers and about 5.2K miles it became apparent that what works great at the track was just not the best on the street. The car had become a rattle trap and the impact harnesses was just too high. The car bounded over the not so perfectly smooth pavement and porpoised over tar strips and edges of the concert pavement. Plus the wife did not want to ride in the car anymore (which can be a good thing sometimes...). I removed the Stance setup and sold it to a local guy who was putting together a purpose built FC road race car. I installed a new set of Tokico Illuminas struts and shocks along with a set of NOS Eibach springs. What the car has lost in its ultimate handling potential, it has made up for 10 fold in ride quality and comfort.

So if you want a really stiff riding car with top level quality, mid level priced range coil-over set, go right ahead and buy that Stance kit. I hope you find this feed-back somewhat helpful.

atli126

This is a great recommendation. I am constantly chasing that great comfy but sporty setup. I have the Tein flex setup with the edfc and it is pretty amazing, it comes with 6k front and 5k rear. It great and I do autox the car and I still may go softer on the springs for the best sporty ride for the street but as is they rock for autox and street!

http://www.tein.com/tech_info/m62.html

MoNkEy_MaGiCx

It's just a shame that Flex are no longer available new for the FC.

Jimmy2222

iTrader: (3)

For real? Like Tein recently discontinued? I thought I saw the other day when I looked :S

Dr!freak

Have you tried KYB AGX?

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

i totally agree with you, even my $2.5k HKS Hyper D coilovers are far too harsh and tend to porpoise when i drive on the street and i really miss my AGX/Tein combo most of the time i drive the car. the handling sadly isn't even that much better with the coilovers.


if you want stiff, try the powered by max coilovers. i had a friend with them and it would crush the discs in my back just hitting a very small crease in the road.

clokker

iTrader: (2)

I often read threads like this while gnashing my teeth and silently screaming, "Race parts are crap unless used in race conditions!", but I usually refrain from actually writing it down.
Usually.

RACE PARTS ARE CRAP UNLESS USED IN RACE CONDITIONS!

Not today, apparently.

No one in their right mind wants stiff suspension, low speed non-compliance is the result of concentrating on high load/high speed smoothness, harshness is a byproduct, not a result to be desired.
If your usual drive includes 90mph dives down the Corkscrew, you'll need a "race" suspension.

Bear in mind however, even race techs have to compromise.
At Daytona for instance, the race is won at the end of a king hell NASCAR oval, so the suspension is setup for the banking because that's what matters. The infield is much slower/tighter and flatter though and you won't handle as well there...it's a tradeoff even the pros must accept.

And speaking of race techs- the more adjustments the suspension has, the more likely you'll totally **** it up. Without controlled, repeatable conditions (like a race track) and telemetry to gather data, your chance of hitting a sweet spot (assuming your hardware has one) are vanishingly slim.

Lastly- because I'm old and cannot sustain rage for long- there's the hardware itself.
IMO, most coilover setups are about as legit as Pep Boyz stick on vents.
Actually, the vents are probably more benign...they might look silly but don't degrade anything but your image.

Now, GO BRONCOS!

j9fd3s

iTrader: (3)

actually in the last 10 years or so the suspension science has filtered down to the grassroots level, so in the racing world we've made huge strides in both handling and surprisingly ride quality.

most people, have a complete misconception of what the suspension parts are actually doing, and why they are doing it.

the cliff notes are just buy Ohlins, they are 99% there right out of the box.

the non cliff notes are:

shocks: the shock does basically two things, it dampens the spring, and then it controls the body motion. it does this with two valves. there is a high shock piston speed valve, and a low shock piston speed valve. the low speed valve is for handling, it simply dampens the spring. the high speed valve is where the body control, and it turns out ride quality happens. the low speed valve is pretty easy to get right, as it is just a function of the spring rate vs the weight of the car. the high speed valving is the hard part, it seems like it needs to be done by testing, and most shock/coilovers just don't have this done at all. get it right though and its magic, you get a good ride AND the car will soak up bumps at full chat and not get upset

springs: the spring has a simple job, it simply counters the cornering G forces. lets just say we have a stock FC, and we go around a skidpad, and at .7G the car rolls 10 degrees (made up numbers). step two, same car, but lets put some sticky tires on it, suddenly its pulling 1G and the door handles scrape the ground. so we put stiffer springs in it, so that at 1G it rolls the same (or less) 10 degrees it did when it was stock. for the FC we can of course cheat and look at what all the tuners offered for springs, and just start there too 8kg F and 6kg R is the average.

i know this looks really simple, but conceptually it is this simple. a huge percentage (90%) of the ride quality is in the high speed damping of the shock, and a huge percentage of available shocks are just valved badly, or way too stiff because people think stiffer ride = better.

we put a set of ohlins on the race car this year, and it was just amazing, it handles like it did with the koni's, but going down the corkscrew @90mph (actually more like 40), it can hit all the berms and not get upset AND it rides nicely to boot.

further reading Autocross to Win (DGs Autocross Secrets) - Shocks
and http://www.optimumg.com/docs/Springs...Tech_Tip_1.pdf

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

/me gives clokker a viagra.

oops, wrong kinda hard...