mostly for the 1/4 mile, what are your suggestions for a na 87 rx7.

 

T
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i cant turbo my car

 

then option #2

S
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well i mean not without some custom fabrication, if there was a bolt on i would already have one

 

V8 swap (hahahahaha)

search, man!

 

i have a rebuilt na
i want to keep it

 

Supercharger...not too many options.
Most na mods will take away low-end power. Rotaries are not well known for that.

 

Why build a rotary for low end power when their key characteristic is revs = power.

IMO it could be done but you'd just be pushing **** uphill and in the end it wont be anywhere near as effective as a tuned V8 or something

 

It seems to mean a lot to this guy.

2 threads on how to make his car quicker.

Do a complete tune-up and make sure your 5th and 6th's are working properly.

The search button is your friend.

Are you trying to win a drag race or something?

 

yeah, how did you know. i have a race with a v6 camaro the bigger of the 2 v6s AT. and a ram 1500 v8. A 1997 nissan maxima, a firebird with some v8 in march or april of next year. want to make them look like fools to challenge the relic rx7

 

how much money do you have to spend?

 

Low end = Go get a STI or EVO and leave the Rx-7 club.
High End and the unbelievable 3rd gear = Rx-7

 

practically speaking. 1k before the deadline may be 2k. and after until it cant get any faster.
i am going to do all the little things first like remove ps and ac and air pump. also i might be sponcored and get stuff 1/2 off by my friends Radiator busness.

 

Buy my car!

 

? why

 

So you won't have to tinker.

 

wow... Why would you race those ghetto-*** cars?

What a waste of time. I've said it before, if they beat you, you gain nothing. "Ooh, I beat an automatic, V6 Firebird, a Dodge truck and a '97 Maxima"???!?!

Don't do it!

 

what do you have all mods, but private message me. i have to work at 4 am and it s 11.30 now so i have to get some shut eye.

 

This is going to cost you $Texas on an N/A, and you still won't have any low end.

 

Just look in my VBGarage. There is a pic in there and everything. Please pm me if you are serious. I am not trying to push this car to sell.

Erik is right. What a waste of gas. Stock NA 7s are not fast. Why would you care if they beat you or not? If this is what you bought this car for I pity you.

 

And you wagered texas with a dollar sign. OMG I was just watching that LMFAO. SNL rocks.

Man you could probaly beat those cars stock. My corsica can run with any of those. lol. And my GTU with bad oil seals and water seals would run circles around the corsica. So just save your money and beat them stock. then get turbo with the money you saved. Youll be glad you did.

 

Get 4.88 gears. Then do the rest of the normal mofidcations, you'll accellerate quick enough and have good power to get it done.

Have fun. Its easy to make a 13 second NA if you research, alot of people bolt on parts and expect 100 HP. Its not that simple. With an effective rebuild/4.88 gears you'll be fine and have alot of fun on the highways.

SDJ Header - Borla - CS catback
Custom intake manifold (thats the big restriction)
4.88 gears (search)
True fenderwall or CAI
Standalone
Weight reduction

Hey should be good then, if thats not enough, look into Kahren style ports. A stage 1 will give you better torque then stock, but with 4.88 gears, there isn't a big need for alot of torque .

 

(On my 90 'vert) The only modifications I ever did that gave me low end, in order from most low end to least, are:

1) Removed about 100lbs of weight
2) MEGASQUIRT ECU (Tons more low end!)
3) Racing Beat catback (those stockers are pretty restrictive, very small amount of low end, almost unnoticable)
4) Porting/Roughing/Portmatching Intake Manifolds, Throttle body, and Cold Air intake (Miniscule amount of low end, only noticeable at above 2K

These mods didnt effect my low end, but they made the entirety of first and second pull much harder:

5) Removed the stock (broken, locked) clutch fan and got an E-Fan off a first gen MR2
6) Got an SR Motorsports 9.5lb flywheel (Thanks to Rarest RX)


I reccomend finding some shorter gears, like the 4.33 gear out of a GTUs or 4.44 gears out of a Mazda truck (Do those even fit?!) Also learn to launch and shift properly and get some good tires.

I lost low end when I put the RB header/collector on instead of the stock manifold.


Now, I highly reccomend against doing any of this, because it really doesnt matter if you win that race or not, but it does matter if you have cash on hand.

Theres a thread in the archives called "How to biuld a Beefy N/A." I reccomend it.

 

Building for low end with an engine thats (as far as piston engines go) relative to a long rod, oversquare, big-port 2.6 4banger that has the rotaries thermodynamic quirks on top of that kind of VE curve is, uh foolish. Go WITH the flow, not against it.

If you wanna keep it NA, you gotta deal with that you'll be revving high and go with it. If youre only drag racing you dont need a big powercurve so peakyness can be okay - just get shorter gears and learn to launch, good tires, drag suspension, etc.

If you wanna go low end, honestly, Id recommend a swap. I mean ****, Ive yet to see a long-runner manifold for lowend in rotaries and the porting is for higher revs... youd have to use sideport exhaust and intake like a renesis to get anywhere, and even then NOT revving high would be working AGAINST you!

Anyway, if you *REALLY* want torque and low revs, Im sure some TPI v8 is out there waiting with your name on it, and the ford 2.3T is stock quite the torque machine as well. Maxing out the stock IHI (which is ******* TINY) gives it spool at like... 2K and about 230 whp, with a 5700 rpm redline and 6250 revlimiter. Most guys shift at 5200 with it!