I'm in the process of improving my fuel mileage. So one of the things to do was check the tps. i checked it using the method in the FSM. The wide range tps was within spec, but the narrow range was way out (1.8K ohms at closed throttle when it should be 0.8-1.2, similar at WOT). So turned the adjusting screw in a LONG ways, but i never could reach 1.2, the closest i got was 1.3K ohms. So i figured that was alot better then it was, and left it like that. When i went to drive it, the car was bucking, and wouldn't coast properly, etc... so i figured i had done something wrong.

I tried to adjust it using the three prong connector in the airbox. I set my DMM to read voltage, put the black probe in the part of the connector by itself, and put the red probe on one of the other two parts. I adjusted the tps until i only had voltage at one of the prongs. This should've done it right? Now when i drive the car, it idles ok, is ok under moderate to heavy throttle, but at very light throttle it doesn't run right, and at slow speeds like in parking lots, it bucks badly. Is my TPS shot?

 

Keep adjusting it till it runs perfectly. I had same issues.

 

While we're on the subject of TPS........
I got one from a board member and I can get it adjusted to 1k at idle and it's in spec at WOT. But, the voltage is about 1v off. My SAFC says that it's .5v at idle and 3.5 at WOT. So when I'm going WOT My SAFC is only reading 77-80% so I never get my high map and it bogs. I put my old TPS in and it still reads fine.

Just curious how it can be the correct resistance but not the correct voltage.

[/threadjack]

 

hmmkay, but then it'll still be out of adjustment will it not?

 

I used a multimeter and a light method to get it close, then I fine tuned the adjustment after each ride, until it ran perfect.

Its still within adjustment, but nobody ever says maybe you should make the car leaner or richer by using the TPS to compensate for added modifications, IE: headers, cold air intakes, ported manifolds.

All I can say is you will know when its set just right, drive the car and you will see exactly what I am talking about.

PS: only move screw 1/8 turn at a time, then drive and readjust if nessary. keep track of which way you turn the screw and use a clock as a reference guide.

 

What's the link for adjusting he TPS with a multimeter? All I've been able to find is the light method

 

I thought my TPS was shot for a long time but then I found out that there was a vac line stoped up. Check that and I had read someone where that some of the rx7 can run without the tps.