well after asking countless questions about the 720cc injector install and getting almost no replies, I tried under taking it myself, first I installed them with no resistors, and drove it about 200 miles, then realised that I fucked up, took it apart and installed some resistors from an 86 resistor pack, now I have it running but it reads full rich on my a/f gauge....I took out the ecu to see if it was fried and it looked out there was a very tiny amount of black stuff around a few connections but nothing that wouldn't let the signal go through, any help is much apricated, I'm also going to try and put the 550s back it and see if that helps...

 

How were you controlling the extra flow???

Using the stock ECU and no piggy back AFC???

just putting them in wouldn't give you any more HP, infact dyno tests show that without an additional AFC or standalone ECU you would loose HP.

If there are burnt spots on the connectors, you may have internally damaged the ECU as well, but I wouldn't think it would even fire if you had.

 

no burnts spots on the connectors and I do have an Safc....

 

cool, so what problem are you having now then exactly... is the car not running???

 

a rotary needs to run rich. My a/f is pegged all the time.

 

Yes I have it running, I definatly can tell a differnce from when I had no resistors, my car almost snaped my neck when I slammed it, but on my a/f gauge it read full rich, I mean all the way up, when I go for a cruse and slowly bring the rpms up it goes to stoich, and under full throttle it moves to less rich near stoich but not touching, I checked the variable resistor and its at 4.9, the FSM specs are between .5-4.5 but I don't see how that would change after I installed the resistors....my plugs are pretty fouled, and I'm also suspecting the O2 sensor of bieing fouled, but how can I tell? I don't wanna go out and spend extra money....

 

Please don't post BS like this.

 

You can't just slap a fuel computer on and expect everything to run properly. You have to tune it. The best place for this is on a dyno equipped with a wide-band A/F meter, operated by someone who knows what they're doing. A/F gauges on normal O2 sensors are totally inadequate for this sort of thing and cannot be trusted. All they'll tell you is if you're running richer than stoichiometic, but not by how much. That's only for adjusting idle mixture, nothing else. You are running too rich. Just replace it, they're cheap.