i was driving on the freeway and drop it into thir at WOT its ok for a second then i feel the car get a bit sliggish so i let off. well i try to give it gas and nithing happens. like the revs just slowly drop little by little. even if i gave it all gas the revs would drop and the boost gauge read 0. until it turned off. and now it wont turn on. it sounds like it wants to turn on but just doesnt. did i blow my engine?

 

A simple compression test will tell you if your engine is blown.

 

Check all your hoses and vac lines could have just popped a hose off or something. Always do that before you go up to a shop and look like an idiot when the mechanic says well you are missing ......

 

when i try to turn my car on all it does is whine over. but ir doesnt want to start. would what i described seem like a blown motor?

 

if there are no "puffs" like when you normally start an engine that doesnt start its definatly not getting compression....i wouldnt say its blown yet, unless you heard some not so nice crunching sounds when you hit WOT....Compression test first to see where your at and then try the ATF trick. My roomate has his 87 sport in the garage with a blown motor, it use to start but burned coolent like crazy with choco milk in the overflow and all and finally when we wanted to go for a drive he tried to start it and CRUNCH, bye bye seals. lol, hope its not the case with you, good luck

 

i did a compression test with a snap-on tester and the rear rotor read 25psi, and the front one wouldnt even move the needle! i am not sure if i checked it right though. pull out 30egi fuse, remove both trailing plugs, connect tester to one plug hole and then just crank? thats what bugs me, i didnt hear anything when my car messed up. and i heard that you can still drive rotary's with blown motors. wtf? am i doing the test right?

 

Do the Compression tester have a one way valve in it?? if it did this will have to be removed to see the 3 pulses on each rota. But if it didn't move the gauge on the front rota, I would say that the motors blown.-Sorry And 25 psi in your rear rota sounds to low.
As for driving with a blown rota, I spit a apex seal on one of my old 13bt's, and I had to be towed up to 60 mph to start it and couldn't let the REV's drop below 3000 rpm ( was running on the front rota only) only did this because I was about 80 miles from home & didn't have the money for a tow truck.
Sorry, but I think your looking at a re-build.

 

Those compression numbers indicate that the engine is blown or you didn't perform the test correctly. Compression of "0" on one chamber is not abnormal for a blown engine.

 

sounds like the engine is blown. I wasnt saying that you WOULD hear a noise if/when it blew, i was saying that I heard a crunching sound, lol. Also dont necessarily believe everything you hear, different blown enignes can include just the front or just the rear or just the side seals, coolent seals, oil seals. Sometimes they can keep running and sometimes they cant, in your case, not gonna happen. Have fun rebuilding your engine, if you do it yourself, you will love this car forever. And considering you didnt hear anything, thats a good sign that the rotors and housings will be still good, when we get around to cracking my roomates motor open im sure i will find lots of rust, scoring, pitting and alot of other nasty things that will require new housings and possably rotors, consider you self lucky in a sense

 

thats what i am thinking. is there any shop that has good prices on all necesasary rebuild parts? i am also tihnking of rebuilding it with a streetport and stand alone maybe. how hard is it to install a stand alone like microtech and haltech? do these kits come with absolutely everything needed?

 

most of the time you won't hear a sound when an apex seal gets tossed, i have been in the car and couldn't hear a thing until the motor coasted down to realize the seal was gone.

 

You see, not everyone has a compression checking tool.