i screwed up... maybe big time this time..
#1
i screwed up... maybe big time this time..
ok... so i have to batteries (temp) in my rx7 and today i messed up and hooked up the batteries correctly... i connected them +-+-.. so i had a 24 volt connection.
started the car up... reved up and shut off.. then i tried it again 2-3 times and then i quit and sat there thinking of what it could be .... while i was doing that my logicon started smoking. i quickly unplugged the quick disconnect.. corrected the wiring to ++-- . started the car and let it sit for a while it warmed up and i revved it up to like 4k. do you think im going to run into some sort of problems
started the car up... reved up and shut off.. then i tried it again 2-3 times and then i quit and sat there thinking of what it could be .... while i was doing that my logicon started smoking. i quickly unplugged the quick disconnect.. corrected the wiring to ++-- . started the car and let it sit for a while it warmed up and i revved it up to like 4k. do you think im going to run into some sort of problems
Last edited by mazdaverx713b; 03-29-10 at 04:57 AM. Reason: language
#2
oh and on top of that befor i messed up with that install... my soft top fuse keeps blowing as soon as i connect the fuse and my rear defroster lite stays on and it doesnt work ethier it used to work and i stop driving the car for a while... one day i go to start it and it the top wont work and my rear defrost wont work
#7
well for me ... its because i have a huge voltage drop and a parasitic loss..
so with two batteries there is no voltage drop.well its significantly less and this will have to do till i get into my electrical class this week and fix the problem.
others use it for system (AUDIO) umm basically for cars that have a heavy electric load on the vechical.
so with two batteries there is no voltage drop.well its significantly less and this will have to do till i get into my electrical class this week and fix the problem.
others use it for system (AUDIO) umm basically for cars that have a heavy electric load on the vechical.
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#12
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well for me ... its because i have a huge voltage drop and a parasitic loss..
so with two batteries there is no voltage drop.well its significantly less and this will have to do till i get into my electrical class this week and fix the problem.
others use it for system (AUDIO) umm basically for cars that have a heavy electric load on the vechical.
so with two batteries there is no voltage drop.well its significantly less and this will have to do till i get into my electrical class this week and fix the problem.
others use it for system (AUDIO) umm basically for cars that have a heavy electric load on the vechical.
and yeh...test drive it around for a good minute before taking it on the highway or major roads.
#14
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If you are worried about the ECU (I would be, after feeding it 24v), check to see if it is giving you the normal lights indication on initial power up. If yours is an S4, you have no check engine light, so you need to make the two-LED code checker (google "check 86-88 RX7 trouble codes"). Both LEDs should come on for about 3 sec after turning the power on (key to run, not start).
If they do, the ECU is at least still talking. If that worked, I would check for codes. If none, I would induce a code condition by disconnecting the appropriate sensor (i.e. O2 sensor) and seeing that the ECU reports the right code. If that works, its not only talking, but thinking.
Finally, I would do the 'closed loop operation' check. That would verify that the ECU is successfuly controlling the mixture during cruise.
If you really want to be sure, get down to the ECU connectors, and backprobe each pin with a voltmeter. Do this with the ignition on but not running, and then again at idle after warm up. compare the voltages with those published in the table in the online FSM.
If you fried a sensor, it should show up as a voltage out of specifications.
If they do, the ECU is at least still talking. If that worked, I would check for codes. If none, I would induce a code condition by disconnecting the appropriate sensor (i.e. O2 sensor) and seeing that the ECU reports the right code. If that works, its not only talking, but thinking.
Finally, I would do the 'closed loop operation' check. That would verify that the ECU is successfuly controlling the mixture during cruise.
If you really want to be sure, get down to the ECU connectors, and backprobe each pin with a voltmeter. Do this with the ignition on but not running, and then again at idle after warm up. compare the voltages with those published in the table in the online FSM.
If you fried a sensor, it should show up as a voltage out of specifications.
#15
lay off the meth? wtf ..?
i said i will fix the problem in this class... the only reason why i added a second battery is to make sure i dont get stuck till the problem gets fixed.. i have a 30 person class and two lifts in a hanger that fits 4 cars.. calm down.
anyway i got to school and drove around for a while and she started up and everything. she also running rich. (exhaust leak<getting fixed tomorrow >)... i dont know how to test for a parasitic loss so..... thats why im waiting for class tomorrow anywho.
i said i will fix the problem in this class... the only reason why i added a second battery is to make sure i dont get stuck till the problem gets fixed.. i have a 30 person class and two lifts in a hanger that fits 4 cars.. calm down.
anyway i got to school and drove around for a while and she started up and everything. she also running rich. (exhaust leak<getting fixed tomorrow >)... i dont know how to test for a parasitic loss so..... thats why im waiting for class tomorrow anywho.
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