gotian

iTrader: (1)

okay the CAS reads 176 on both sides

gotian

iTrader: (1)

<object width="480" height="385"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/LVGiR6JAhvI?fs=1&amp;hl=en_US"></param><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always"></param><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/LVGiR6JAhvI?fs=1&amp;hl=en_US" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true" width="480" height="385"></embed></object>

satch

iTrader: (1)

How about one brief shot of starter fluid and then when you start the car don't just start it and allow it to die as before, but upon startup fight to keep the car running and see how that plays out. On purposely try to rev the engine (2k to 4k or so) if you can get it started as opposed to allowing it run at an idle speed.

gotian

iTrader: (1)

when I try to rev the engine it will rev up then cut out

gotian

iTrader: (1)

what could be causing this to happen? it's similar to the original problem, when i press down on the gas it cuts off, at least now i can get it to start up unlike before

gotian

iTrader: (1)

bump?

gotian

iTrader: (1)

so when i crank the car and i press the gas pedal clouds of white smoke come out and thats all that happens, just smoke but it doesnt stay on it's own when i let go of the key.

satch

iTrader: (1)

If your plugs are fouled that would prevent the car from being started. Or it could be improper fuel pressure, which can be measured or it could be you blew the engine and the starting problem is due to low compression which can be measured. These are all possibilities.

gotian

iTrader: (1)

so then how do i test the compression?

clokker

iTrader: (2)

Geez, the persistence and patience of you two is remarkable.
That said, ten days ago I suggested that a voltage spike had damaged the ECU or it's wiring and I wonder when you'll get around to checking it out.

gotian

iTrader: (1)

clokker i take that as a complement, lol. how do i check out what you are suggesting? i must have past your comment before, sorry =(

gotian

iTrader: (1)

um clokker?

texFCturboII

iTrader: (17)

Fortunately for you, the s4 N/A's are cheap as dirt as well.... I'd check it by getting another one... If it indeed was a voltage spike then I would suspect the voltage regulator in the alternator..... Man I hope you figure this out quick, these cars are not cheap, and often times need lots of work...


keep cranking your starter like that and you will need another one soon enough. Get new plugs in there as the ones that are there are most likely screwed by now, and have you even attempted to wire in a fuel relay cut switch?

Have you tested fuel pressure?

clokker

iTrader: (2)

I suppose it is a compliment.
Unfortunately, like much computer troubleshooting, the best way to "check" the ECU is simply to swap it out.

All of the suggestions you've been getting- and honestly, you should buy satch a CASE of beer for his efforts- are completely logical EXCEPT they don't account for the voltage spike you described in the first post.
I think that's key to finding your problem.

gotian

iTrader: (1)

have not tested fuel pressure as mentioned because i do not have the tool to do so. everything costs money and i just got hit with a 255 electric bill, so im a little more strapped than usual at this point.

So i cannot get another ECU to test at this point either so i need to test the one I got to see if its good before i go and just buy another one I might not need

texFCturboII

iTrader: (17)

heres how to do a compression test (I had to google search it because searching on here yielded page upon page upon page of useless threads...)

http://mazdarx7.iougs.com/faqcompression.shtml

You aren't going to get very accurate readings because it isn't warmed up all the way, but it will give you an idea.

clokker

iTrader: (2)

If I had a spare I'd lend it to you but I don't.
Surely someone here does...

texFCturboII

iTrader: (17)

Man, make a post in the South section of the Forum. There are hundreds of rotor heads in florida, Im sure SOMEBODY will sympathize with you and loan you a s4 N/A ECU, they are about as cheap as oatmeal.

While you are at it, request a fuel pump as well....

gotian

iTrader: (1)

as cheap as oatmeal? You think they might take EBT?

texFCturboII

iTrader: (17)

Hahaha, you wont find out until you ask, lol....

gotian

iTrader: (1)

couple questions since im not working on the car right now, I checked the pump, the pump was good, could the filter in the engine bay be bad and not working?

also can compression just drop out of no where cause my car has always idled fine and always responded very well.

texFCturboII

iTrader: (17)

How did you determine that the pump is good? Just because it was working does not mean it was working PROPERLY.... you have to check your fuel pressure for that, fortunately N/A fuel pumps are also cheaper than dirt.

Yes, compression can just drop out of nowhere. Chipping or breaking an apex seal happens suddenly, the same is true with a side seal.

Just for giggles..... how much fuel do you have in the tank?

gotian

iTrader: (1)

half a tank

texFCturboII

iTrader: (17)

Lol, ok... sorry there was another guy that had issues earlier and no gas was the culprit...

gotian

iTrader: (1)

yeah....um, no, lol.