I lost my last key
#1
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Thread Starter
I lost my last key
Nobody had any blanks so I ordered two from the dealer. Before they arrived, I lost the last one. I gave the dealer the VIN, but he said the dealer who sold the car originally wrote the wrong key code into the system. He told my the code was written on the passenger side lock barrel. I pulled that out, but no code.
Any ideas?
Any ideas?
#2
Smells like 2 stroke.
Take your barrel and plug intact to any decent locksmith and they should be able to cut a key to match it. All that has to be done is to cut a fresh key to the pin heights in the lock. It's somewhat time consuming but is definitely doable.
Edit: I would recommend using the passenger side because it's probably not worn as bad as any of the others in the vehicle. This would provide the locksmith the best match to what your original key probably was.
Edit: I would recommend using the passenger side because it's probably not worn as bad as any of the others in the vehicle. This would provide the locksmith the best match to what your original key probably was.
Last edited by DaBrkddy; 10-24-15 at 10:09 AM.
#4
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the door/hatch locks are easy, just rekey them to the blank!
#6
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I had a four digit code on the cylinder of the passenger door that was enough for someone to make me a key. It was on an S5, I can't be sure if an S4 is different, though I don't see reason as to why it would be.
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#8
Hey...Cut it out!
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My local locksmith was easily able to re-key the S5 bin locks to my original S4 key so it works like it came from the factory that way. Cost me $15 per lock. Also, I find it very difficult to believe that your key code was entered incorrectly by a Mazda dealer into a networked database that they all share. It's just not adding up right in my eyes. Try asking J9FD3S for more info regarding your key code. If he comes up short, a call to the corporate office might shed some light on this.
#12
Hey...Cut it out!
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#14
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Made my own key with pictures
So I called a locksmith and left a message. A called a different locksmith who said he call back. I called a third locksmith who said he'd call back and it would be $225. No one called back. So I went to Home Depot and bought some hobby files.
I had already taken the lock out of the passenger door.
Take the cylinder out of the barrel. There are seven bronze "pins" in the barrel. The fall out pretty easy. You don't want them to fall out because you may have trouble getting them back in in the right order.
Slide the blank into the cylinder. It will make some of the pins pop up.
The lock works by having the pins jut up into a groove inside the cylinder.
You must file the blank down so that the pins do not project from the cylinder allowing it to rotate in the barrel.
You can pull the pins out with your fingers. Pull one out at a time.
With one pin out, put the blank into the cylinder and mark the pin location on the blank with a fine point sharpie.
Put the blank in a vise and carefully file away where the mark is. After about 4 passes with the file, put the blank back in the cylinder to make sure the notch is in the right place and check to see how far the pin is protruding.<br/>
When you have filed the blank so that the pin is no longer protruding, repeat the process with the next pin.<br/>
With deeper notches, the file will create a hook on the front and back of the notch. File the hooks off with a flat file before you put it into the cylinder. If you forget and the key gets stuck in the cylinder, just wiggle the pins with a paperclip or something to get the key out.<br/>
Eventually, none of the pins will protrude when you put the key in. Run out to the car and make sure the key will start the car.
This creates one side of the key. You have to put it into the lock in the correct orientation to make it work.
Doug
I had already taken the lock out of the passenger door.
Take the cylinder out of the barrel. There are seven bronze "pins" in the barrel. The fall out pretty easy. You don't want them to fall out because you may have trouble getting them back in in the right order.
Slide the blank into the cylinder. It will make some of the pins pop up.
The lock works by having the pins jut up into a groove inside the cylinder.
You must file the blank down so that the pins do not project from the cylinder allowing it to rotate in the barrel.
You can pull the pins out with your fingers. Pull one out at a time.
With one pin out, put the blank into the cylinder and mark the pin location on the blank with a fine point sharpie.
Put the blank in a vise and carefully file away where the mark is. After about 4 passes with the file, put the blank back in the cylinder to make sure the notch is in the right place and check to see how far the pin is protruding.<br/>
When you have filed the blank so that the pin is no longer protruding, repeat the process with the next pin.<br/>
With deeper notches, the file will create a hook on the front and back of the notch. File the hooks off with a flat file before you put it into the cylinder. If you forget and the key gets stuck in the cylinder, just wiggle the pins with a paperclip or something to get the key out.<br/>
Eventually, none of the pins will protrude when you put the key in. Run out to the car and make sure the key will start the car.
This creates one side of the key. You have to put it into the lock in the correct orientation to make it work.
Doug
#20
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The key is fully functional. It opens both doors and trunk (it's a convertible) and starts the car. I can't describe the elation and relief when the car started up!
Doug
Doug
#21
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theoretically you can take that blank to any place with an automatic key machine and just copy it. just elbow the person running it out of the way and follow the instructions on the machine. it'll ask for the key holder thing, which is black, and then you can either look up the key blank # by application (mazda->rx7->year), or it should be mz13/14