Nobody had any blanks so I ordered two from the dealer. Before they arrived, I lost the last one. I gave the dealer the VIN, but he said the dealer who sold the car originally wrote the wrong key code into the system. He told my the code was written on the passenger side lock barrel. I pulled that out, but no code.

Any ideas?

 

Take your barrel and plug intact to any decent locksmith and they should be able to cut a key to match it. All that has to be done is to cut a fresh key to the pin heights in the lock. It's somewhat time consuming but is definitely doable.

Edit: I would recommend using the passenger side because it's probably not worn as bad as any of the others in the vehicle. This would provide the locksmith the best match to what your original key probably was.

 

That logic would dictate that the hatch cylinder is probably the least worn.

 

the door/hatch locks are easy, just rekey them to the blank!

 

check locksmith first, if I remember right the doors did not contain all the information needed but the trunk does

 

I had a four digit code on the cylinder of the passenger door that was enough for someone to make me a key. It was on an S5, I can't be sure if an S4 is different, though I don't see reason as to why it would be.

 

I seen a set of tumblers posted in the classifieds with keys for 75$ but I don't think it includes the bins . I believe the locksmith is going to charge more then that I had this issue a few month back it was cheaper to buy a used set from someone here .

 

My local locksmith was easily able to re-key the S5 bin locks to my original S4 key so it works like it came from the factory that way. Cost me $15 per lock. Also, I find it very difficult to believe that your key code was entered incorrectly by a Mazda dealer into a networked database that they all share. It's just not adding up right in my eyes. Try asking J9FD3S for more info regarding your key code. If he comes up short, a call to the corporate office might shed some light on this.

 

Actually i remember now- i took the trunk lock out because it was easier. No messing with the door handle or lock.
Cost me $25 with 2 keys.

 

You guys had it easy . My locksmith is a rip off they wanted more then 10x what white comet paid . Can I get a business card ???

 

Hey on ebay right now there is a key with lock cylinder for 50 bucks. Search for "fc3s key" it will come up.

 

Slatershardware - Slaters Lock Shop Just ask for Lee, tell him you have an RX-7 (he had two FCs back in the day), mention my 3-rotor and how my bin locks were re-keyed there for $15 each a few years ago and they'll hook you up.

 

Sounds good . Thanks I'll will probably send them my old lock seeing as i already put the new ones in .

 

So I called a locksmith and left a message. A called a different locksmith who said he call back. I called a third locksmith who said he'd call back and it would be $225. No one called back. So I went to Home Depot and bought some hobby files.

I had already taken the lock out of the passenger door.



Take the cylinder out of the barrel. There are seven bronze "pins" in the barrel. The fall out pretty easy. You don't want them to fall out because you may have trouble getting them back in in the right order.


Slide the blank into the cylinder. It will make some of the pins pop up.


The lock works by having the pins jut up into a groove inside the cylinder.





You must file the blank down so that the pins do not project from the cylinder allowing it to rotate in the barrel.




You can pull the pins out with your fingers. Pull one out at a time.





With one pin out, put the blank into the cylinder and mark the pin location on the blank with a fine point sharpie.





Put the blank in a vise and carefully file away where the mark is. After about 4 passes with the file, put the blank back in the cylinder to make sure the notch is in the right place and check to see how far the pin is protruding.<br/>





When you have filed the blank so that the pin is no longer protruding, repeat the process with the next pin.<br/>





With deeper notches, the file will create a hook on the front and back of the notch. File the hooks off with a flat file before you put it into the cylinder. If you forget and the key gets stuck in the cylinder, just wiggle the pins with a paperclip or something to get the key out.<br/>





Eventually, none of the pins will protrude when you put the key in. Run out to the car and make sure the key will start the car.


This creates one side of the key. You have to put it into the lock in the correct orientation to make it work.

Doug

 

Good writeup. Crazy it only uses 3 pins.

 

I count 6 or 7

 

From this picture, there is only 2 pins protruding, because he filed the blank on the first one. That make 3 protruding pins. the rest are flush.

 

Bravo iamsisyphus, bravo.

 

Does it start the car? Works in the doors?

 

The key is fully functional. It opens both doors and trunk (it's a convertible) and starts the car. I can't describe the elation and relief when the car started up!

Doug

 

theoretically you can take that blank to any place with an automatic key machine and just copy it. just elbow the person running it out of the way and follow the instructions on the machine. it'll ask for the key holder thing, which is black, and then you can either look up the key blank # by application (mazda->rx7->year), or it should be mz13/14

 

This is also how you re-key the cylinder to an existing key. You just swap the pins around until they are all sit flush with the key installed.

 

I found the missing key.

 

Wow...can you laugh about it now?

 

....along with the wife
....in a Motel room..
..with my X best friend...
...and my dog!.......

(the dog knew how to operate a video camera..)