jaredcolletti

I have an s4 turbo with a new engine (3k on it), full racing beat turbo exh and k&n drop in with a turboxs mbc running 10-10.5 lbs, oh yeah ported wastegate and a boshe fuel pump and a wideband (o2 sensor). Even on the thruway, 80mph, this car is running at least 1/2 on the stock water temp gauge if not higher all the time.

the car has a new block obviously and the rad looks perfect. I went to replace the thermostat with the oem one but the bolts are froze in the housing so that was a no go. I pulled the ac system and even went to far as to relocate the horns as to increase airflow (the the airpump is gone as is the acv and I DO NOT have the dual pully set up. I DO have the undertray and the fan shroud and no leaks in the cooling sysem that I can see, anywhere. I did however find that somethimes, lke on some drives locally, that my gauge wont go past 1/3 and I am hamering on it. the cooling fan idiot light comes on and then will go off.


whats next and cheapest. I was thinking an efan black magic 150 or 155?

thanks guys

jared

I have pu

jaredcolletti

do you think a dual pully would help, slipage?

j

Liquid Anarchy

iTrader: (2)

Go buy a Yahoo Belt. Lawnmower belt. 3L220 if I remember right. just pop it over the e-shaft pulley and water-pump. To get it off, tho'; you'll have to cut it off.

Silkworm

The pulley isn't going to do squat, you're not running at high RPM, so belt slippage is probably minimal like it would be in a auto-x or road race car.

The cooling system is very simple, you have a waterpump, thermostat, hoses, radiator, fan, and if they're stock, all over 11 years old.

You can start with the fan, but if it were me, I'd skip the cheap fixes, and head straight for a new radiator. If you can't afford the big radiators and you're running stock power levels, head to the local radiator shops and price out new stock radiators, they aren't too expensive.

PaulC

Liquid Anarchy

iTrader: (2)

Either get a yahoo belt (3L220 lawnmower belt) or, quite possibly your fan clutch is going out. I'll look into how to check it, and if that's the problem; I just so happen to have one to sell :-P yes, it will be cheap.

jaredcolletti

the rad does seem to be a good idea thanks fellas

jared

Mark S

iTrader: (1)

I would guess it has something to do with the thermostat. The car running to cool somtimes would also indicate thermostat. (By the way, if the engine only has 3k on it, the thermo housing bolts should not be coroded)

An e-fan only works when the car is standing still or at low speed, so it wouldn't help you at all on the thruway.

Also, you can't tell the condition of a radiator by looks. If the thermostat doesn't do it, have the rad flowtested.

jaredcolletti

the temp varies little when running, unless I get on it, or if standing still. Also, on the way home I stopped to refuel and I felt the rad and there were no hot spots or anything. In fact the rad felt pretty "cool" if I can say that, on the entire surface. I dont knoe if thats an indicator or what.

The block is new but the waterpump is the original. thats why, I assume, they are froozen. BTW the guy with the wire comming out of the top of it on the filler neck, is that the watertemp sender? I noticed it has teflon tape or something in it, its not metal to metal, could that interfer?

thanks guys

jared

jaredcolletti

burp

Spawn VII

if the radiator is cool then hot coolant from the engine must be not getting into the radiator?

go change that thermostat

jaredcolletti

Hey guys. I swapped the t-stat out and low and behold the temps dropped to just over a 1/4 at idle. Sweet. I brought and they did it since I knew AI was bust the bolts and they broke but got them out an replacd it with a stock one and "tried" to adjust idle but no dice. In all it cost 54 bucks. better than 450 fo an Al rad.

See you guys an thanks GOOD ADVICE

Jared