RETed's writeup says that the TPS is supposed to read 1kohms at closed throttle and between 4k and 6k at WOT. My aws is removed so I did not warm up the car as per the writeup. My TPS read 1.38kohm closed and 4.70kohm at WOT. I adjusted the screw as far down as I could, before I adjusted it, it was reading around 2kohm when closed. IS my TPS bad?

Also since the test my idle surging problem has gotten worse. Before it didnt happen till the car warmed up and now it starts surging immediately and the surging is more rapid. Is this related or just a coincidence(sp) ?

 

the AWS valve doesn't have anything to do with your TPS, that's not why it's required to warm up your car, I think it has something to do with the thermowax stuff on the throttle body. it might have something to do with warming up the sensor as well. I suggest you warm up your car before testing it just to make sure. it couldn't hurt.

look in the FSM to see the specs the TPS is supposed to be between to see if it's bad, it doesn't sound like it's bad to me, that's not usually how they die (the resistance being too high at closed throttle)

the idle surging is probably just a vacuum leak. you might have knocked whatever is leaking even more lose when you were checking your tps. or just didn't tighten stuff up enough afterwards.

 

Im going to try it again tomorrow with the car warm. I also want to make sure that Im doin this right. The writeup im following is for a s4 and I have a s5 which has a dual tps sensor. Do I use the same wires to perform the test? The black wire witht he red line for the negative and the green wire with the red line for the positive?

 

give me a call if you want me to help.

 

You have to do it with the car warmed up if you have your thermowax (I think that's it) still in place or else the throttle will be held open.

 

fallow the directions in the factory service manual:

http://cochran-racing.com/FSM/s5/

it'll be under fuel and emissions on page 80 something

if I remember correctly the narrow range is the one you should test, and the long range one is for the OMP

 

If you need to get it driveable in the smallest amount of time, using the two lights method with a voltmeter should get it to an acceptable level. From there, you can fine tune with a multimeter.