pretty much nothing happened. Everyone said that it would smoke like Mt. St. Helens and all I got was a small blue cloud in the beginning then nothing. It does seem to idle a little smoother, and accelerate alittle smoother as well. Did it just not have much carbon build up? Not like that would be a bad thing. I let the car sit for about 36 hours with the fluid in and I would crank it for like 10-15 seconds every few hours to spread it around. Supposedly my motor was rebuilt nd had about 50k it when I bought it. Since then I've put about 5k on it. I've seen no proof of it ever being rebuilt so I'm just hoping for the best and expecting the worst. Any ideas? Or am I just being OCD? I do that sometimes when it comes to my car.

 

Apparently ATF can eat the oil seals, it is recommended against using it, despite what some may say. Yeah, it may get your motor unstuck or a little cleaner for a time, but it's risky and there are other safer ways to achieve the desired effect.

Is this an NA? How many miles on the odometer?

Also, the amount the car smokes probably depends on how much oil you put in the chambers. More oil = more smoke

 

your engine is probably just fine.

 

your... your... nevermind ... give ... your car to me please. Your not worthy.

 

But but it doesn't do anything to carbon :-/ and fouls the plugs. Use water or inject even slower alcohol oh and replace your plugs now.

 

a friend of mine with a rotary MG who uses his car for basically only racing puts ATF in his engine every winter when he stores the car. He has been doing this for a few years without any bad effects. And it sits full of ATF all winter long.

 

10 to 15 seconds of crank would have pumped all the ATF right out into the cats

 

I did it when my car was flooded to hell, started instantly (New plugs too) smoked till it looked like my house was on fire, then the car ran great. Hasn't flooded since.

 

use mmo ( marvels mystery oil) rather then atf.. or even 2 stroke oil.. atf is also hard on your o2 sensor

 

i used two stroke oil to regain compression the only time my '88 GXl flooded, trans fluid is meant for transmissions. Thats just my $.02, but I only care about my car anyways, somebody's friend of a friends who races MG's can do what ever he pleases with his car.

but why did you try to trick your engine in the first place?

 

why don't you just suggest the use of snake ****...

If you look at MMO, it contains mostly the same chemicals and make up as ATF.

 

ATF

SECTION XII - Ingredients/Identity Information
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Ingredient # 01
Ingredient Name REFINED PETROLEUM OILS (92-97%)
CAS Number 64741895
Percent 97
Ingredient # 02
Ingredient Name REFINED PETROLEUM OILS (92-97%)
CAS Number 64741884
Percent 0
Ingredient # 03
Ingredient Name REFINED NAPHTENIC OILS (5-12%)
CAS Number 64742536
Percent 12
Ingredient # 04
Ingredient Name VI IMPROVER RUST, CORROSION & OXIDATION INHIBITOR (<8%)
CAS Number 1003
Percent 8
Ingredient # 05
Ingredient Name DYE (<0.1%)
CAS Number 1003
Percent 0.1
Ingredient # 06
Ingredient Name (ZNCPD) ZINC DIALKYLDITHIOPHOSPATES (<4%)
CAS Number 68649423
Percent 4



MARVELS

Ingredient # 01
Ingredient Name BENZENE, 1,2-DICHLORO-
CAS Number 95501
Percent 0
Ingredient # 02
Ingredient Name MINERAL SPIRITS
CAS Number 8052413
Percent 0
Ingredient # 03
Ingredient Name NAPTHENIC HYDROCARBONS
CAS Number 64742525
Percent 0


taken from MSDS..

plus MMO smells like cinnamon!

if they are the same.. why dont you go use MMO in your atomatic transmission. ****.

 

****? You are so cool.

 

I did change the plugs an all that jazz. The water injection scares me because I firmly believe water does not belong in combustion chambers on any kind of engine. Now my idle occasionally drops really low (200-300rpm) then it will jump back to normal. It also does this when I start it cold. It will idle at like 2k the drop to 1500 then it will start choking to like 2-250 and cutting out then it will jump to normal and idle cool. Occasionally it will choke out after getting off the freeway but it always goes back to normal. Any ideas? I know I'm OCD and I am more than worthy of my car. Don't hate the player hate the game. Oh ya tweakgames get yourself a decent jobby job and you can have a dope FC like mine. Thanks for all the input guys. It's an NA by the way

 

thanks! sorry .. i may have been a little brash. i didnt mean to offend you icemark... your not a ****.

i apologize for jacking your thread.

dont be afraid of water injection. it has been used in engines since WWII. ive seen it used on many engines and have also used it on my own with good results.

 

What vacuum line did you use? I'm not even sure if I'll try it I might just leave well enough alone

 

On the S5, I used the brake vac line I believe



On the right of the intake manifold the black tube going down, I had a tube that fitted that perfectly, had my buddy hold the rpms at 4k until the water was about to enter, I sqished the tube alittle to slow the intake of the water and had him almost wot until all the water was gone

I did it to my buddies 12a it idled better and revved up almost to the redline afterwards...can't hurt :P

 

Just make sure your engine is at its operating temperature when you do water treatment...

 

yes make sure the engine is at operating temp. here is a good write-up about it. just dont stall it.

http://www.rotaryresurrection.com/2n...injection.html

 

I am against using ATF in running engines.

With that said, I have a s5 block on my work bench that has a blow coolent seal and the engine would only rotate about 180 degrees before it would become stuck no matter how much force use used. Threw some ATF in there and within minutes the engine was able to be spun easily by hand 360 degrees.

 

so i just read http://www.rotaryresurrection.com/2n...injection.html (good write up by the way) and he says that this is maintenance, which i've heard before. How often should this be done to keep the internals clean ? My engine has about 20k on it now and i've not done this yet. Should I ?

 

as often as you like. there are people who run water injection systems on their high boost 7's in which they are always injecting water into the engine... not at the same quantity as the water treatment but either way their rotors come out clean when its time to rebuild.

ive done it a couple times in the last year. im going to try it once a week or maybe even more frequent for a month or two and try and document the results.

 

They use water injection for different purpose than cleaning the internals. I do not recommend doing it to often. Usually when you do such a trick it is also good idea to change the oil afterwards. If you run your engine through its full RPM range, then carbon buildups should not be a problem. If you just cruise along, or do not use your car often, then carbon buildup is more of an issue. Just remember, ATF, water, Seafom, ect, were not designed to run in your engine on regular basis. Like with everything, just because it works does not mean that more of it will work better.

 

 

they do use it for different reasons.. but they run water injection all the time.. and they dont have to change their oil after every day. they will run a higher volume of water thru their engine than the person who occasionally does the water treatment. and it doesnt matter how hard you rev your engine your still going to have carbon deposits. where as water injection guys can run pig rich all day and end up with clean rotors.

the water treatment is usually done on high mileage engines with bad carbon deposits.. is going thru the rpm range really going to help that much?