Stevobob

iTrader: (1)

I was just trying to get my TPS plug detached from the rad hose so I could test it with a voltmeter a bit easier, and while trying to undo the very tough bolt holding the bracket that the plug sits on I tore a chunk out of the elbow that attaches the upper rad hose to the block. Needless to say the car is officially undriveable like this.

I've attached pics of what I mean. What is this piece called so I know what to look for? I've tried googling the hell out of combinations of "13b rx7 fc3s throttle elbow upper radiator hose to block" and I can't find anything that looks the same. Then again I could just be misjudging due to the angle. Any ideas? I would really love some help on this because it's my daily driver.

Also I know my engine bay is filthy, I just got it a couple months ago and making it look good has taken a back seat to making it run well. :P

edit: Car is a 1990 RX7 n/a.

BurntOrangeT2

iTrader: (30)

http://mazdatrix.com/b8.htm

Half way down the page, thermostat covers and necks.

Stevobob

iTrader: (1)

Thank you so much, that was really quick. Just ordered one, and a new intake since I was there :P

NeCr0mStR

iTrader: (3)

Mazdatrix.com is a great place for a lot of OEM parts for our cars. Also a lot of the auto parts stores can get simple things like radiator hoses for the car.

Stevobob

iTrader: (1)

I did call a parts store and he told me I'd only be able to get that particular part from a dealer, so I just ordered it from Mazdatrix because it felt like getting one locally would be a hassle. Now we'll see if I can get the bolts out that hold the housing to the block - I pulled on em a bit with a socket wrench and they didn't even budge, I'll work on em with a wrench or breaker bar when the new one gets here.

What are the chances that the rubber rad hose has somewhat melted to the hard plastic housing, making THAT impossible to get off without tearing too? :-/

Will_s

iTrader: (7)

I wouldn't use a breaker bar on those 12mm bolts. Chances are you will break them off in the waterpump housing making a quick job a lot harder.

Stevobob

iTrader: (1)

What should I use, then? Spray on some anti-seize or something and let it sit a while?

also, my title is accurate right now unfortunately

misterstyx69

iTrader: (142)

I put on a 12mm Wrench and "slap it".you usually hear a "ping" when the Bolt breaks free.(hit the wrench like you are Tapping some Idiot on the Forehead!..Whack..)..do it quick.It works Pretty good for Stuck bolts.
If you put constant pressure on the Bolt,it is Bound to NOT Break the grasp of the Threads.Using a Quick "hit' it jars the bilt into Breaking free.You can then turn it out...
OH..plastic Thermo housing?.Crap from an S5..(there are some Metal ones out there though.)..I got Both..For Sale.cough.
Good luck with the bolt.it has to Come out sometime,as you need them Out to replace the thermo housing.I would put in a New Thermostat and gasket(OEM.not Stant or Motorad) while there.

Handful

iTrader: (1)

If you can get a brass drift or something put it straight on the bolt and tap it with a hammer. It will jolt the bolt and break off some of the build up that makes it stick. Also spray some WD-40, or some other brand of penetrating oil. Thats what i have always had to do when working on some of these exhausts. Oh and like he said be gentle with the bolt when taking it out. dont wanna break it then be forced to drill it out. That just takes more time.

Hypertek

iTrader: (3)

u could probably slap some jbweld waterweld on that in the mean time.. stuff works wonders

Stevobob

iTrader: (1)

That is exactly the kinda tip I need, thanks a ton. Is a new thermostat absolutely necessary (taking housing off breaks it somehow?) or does it just make sense since it'll fail eventually and I'll just have to take the housing off again?

misterstyx, check your PMs please.

Handful

iTrader: (1)

One of those things thats normally cheap enough and easier to change while you have it apart. "Preventative Maintenance." Like doing a rear main sear when you do your clutch. Just easier when you have it apart. But it shouldn't be a mandatory thing.

Stevobob

iTrader: (1)

Alright, cool. Can I use silicone gasket maker or do I need an oem gasket when I put it back together? Haynes says I could use the gasket maker but if it has a shorter life I don't want to mess with it.

Handful

iTrader: (1)

I work at a dealer so i always recommend the oem gaskets. Its your call though. As long as you get it to seal and its not so much to clean up later RTV works. Just make sure you get the right stuff. Some of that stuff is a pain to clean up next time you have it off.

arghx

iTrader: (3)

replace it with a new OEM-quality part. you don't want any surprises driving down the road.

clokker

iTrader: (2)

Your car uses a big o-ring instead of a conventional gasket.
It deforms during installation and in my experience, doesn't reseal very well once the cover/neck is removed.
Get a new o-ring.