j200pruf

iTrader: (4)

Well after I was told me car started. I found that it really didn't start. So my mom went behind my back and set up and appointment at a local import shop that said they had a rotory specialist. Well today I towed my car down there (all the time with it in gear trying to start it). It was a no go, it got a lot louder when I had the gas depressed, and it was popping a lot, so I figure it was trying to start but it just couldn't.
But right now I have the car down there and they are going to be doing a check, and I am praying that they don't **** anything up.

Indy7373

bummer.

j200pruf

iTrader: (4)

I still have no idea why it won't start. I have redone the CAS like 10 times. I checked the CAS resistance, set the TPS 3 times, adjusted the air screw on the TB. Checked the BACV valve reistance. Looked at the FSM wire diagrams to make sure that I had the fuel injectors wire on the right fuel injectors. It sucks.
Plus this car had a new clutch, rebuilt engine, rebuild transmission, rebuild slave cylinder, brand new down pipe/pre-silencer/cat back, rebuilt fuel injectors, etc... And it still won't start

Rpeck

Since it's broken, sell it to me cheap

check the obious .. fire, fuel, air.

have you tested teh spark? tested the compresion?

pull a fuel injector and make sure it's firing.

j200pruf

iTrader: (4)

It has fuel air, and spark. Thats what has me baffled, if I have all 3 then I would think that it should start.
And there is not a chance in hell I'm going to sell it before I get to drive it

rx7-rage

any leaks coming from the intake manifold or anything?? i had a small problem one time when a bracket got in between the uim and the lim. the car would start, but would quickly rev to like 3500, and then die if i touched the gas at all.

j200pruf

iTrader: (4)

I got a call from the shop yesterday. They said they got my car to start after the spark plugs were changed and the CAS realigned(sp). They also informed me that I had 75psi on both rotors. But there was some bad news. They said that it ran like ****. Apparently it was knocking and vibrating really bad, bad enough that I wouldn't be able to drive it away. There specialist swapped the ECU from his car and said that it ran a little better, but still really shitty. They think that the rotors aren't properly installed, WTF!!! I am damn near positive they were put in right (the engine could be rotated by hand). And I never noticed a vibration or knock when I was towing it or cranking it over.
When I thought that I blew my old motor, it seems like it was running on only one rotor, and vibrating really bad, didn't remember it knocking though.
I am thinking about finding another ECU, and try regrounding everything. Anyone have any more ideas.
I forgot to ask. Could I have been stupid enough to put the rotors in wrong enough that it would affect the timing, or is the shop as dumb as I though

Bio-Weapon

check the timing?

Rpeck

It won't turn over, or go together right if the rotors were put on wrong, there really is no way to put them in worng and still get the engine back together. It sounds to me like a fairly normal rotory motor after a rebuild. They run like **** and require a few hundred miles to start to come together well.


double check all the obvious, get it home and run it.

-Robert

bejbis

im ganna agree with rpeck, if you put the rotors in wrong, it wont allow the motor to turn at all, even just a tooth off. my guess would be that you fouled your plugs. and you need to check your timing again. get the car and just let it idle for a while. also all this might be amplified by a vac leak.

-Daniel

CarmonColvin

Rotors in wrong? No possible way, the motor would of never bolted together. The gear side of the rotor must go towards it's stationary gear (front rotor towards front, rear rotor towards rear).
There is no way to get the gear a tooth off because there is no "timing" involved in the position of the rotor gear and stationary gear. The physical restraints of the rotor housing and e-shaft dictate the position of the rotors.
Swapping a front rotor with a rear rotor has not been an issue for years. I believe the 12a motors had a specific front and rear rotor because of the teardrop shape of the face of the rotor.

I highly recommend you taking your car to a different shop. I would bet money you just have a bad vacuum leak or dirty injectors. I rebuilt my motor 3,000+ miles ago. I could not drive it for the first week after the rebuild because of such terrible performance and 3000rpm idle. I discovered that I had a bad vacuum leak where the middle intake met up with the lower intake. Once that was fixed and I replaced some of the vacuum lines I had a solid 800 rpm idle (unless it is cold).

At 400 miles I only had around 75psi on every chamber, that seemed low but my rebuild did not include new rotor housings so I was happy with it. The motor is so much stronger now it has 3,000+ miles on it I probably have near 90psi on ever chamber. I have just been too lazy to check the compression again.

Good luck.

j200pruf

iTrader: (4)

Well I just picked up the car and spoke directly to the tech. He swears that all the sensors are good and that there is something internally wrong, making it knock and vibrate really bad. He said it seems like its running on one rotor.
It could be the apex seals, but if those were bad there wouldn't be uniform compression in the engine like there is know. End play, I checked that after teh second rebuild, right in the middle of spec, closer to the tight side. And looking at the paper is says internal issuse, timing is off, it also stated that my ECU is fucked(not in those words).

jon88se

What does it sound like during cranking? If it sounds normal but just won't turn over then I really just think it's flooded...how many miles are on the rebuild? IF this is a fresh rebuild with only a few minutes or hours running then of COURSE it has no compression and runs like crap as compression needs to build and the seals need to seat correctly on the worn housings. New rebuilds will also flood very easily due to low compression...if this is an S4 simply crimp the fuel line to start her up (the easiest wasy on S4 IMO)

DAN CARWIN

Mine vibrated all to hell when i put mine together, it ended up being the flywheel was not balance right. so it could be something in the rotating assembly.

j200pruf

iTrader: (4)

I am almost positive the vibration is from it only running on the front rotor.

RRTEC

iTrader: (13)

I ran a car with one rotor for about 2 months...it ran smooth as a babies butt......sounds like flywheel......check your crank angle sensor- line it up with t he timing mark and start again...

PureSephiroth

how many miles do you have on your rebuild? for the first miles you will have trouble starting it and it takes time for it to build compression. If it is a fresh rebuild then you don't really have much to worry about as far as compression. If the rebuild is more than a few thousand old though, 75psi is pretty shitty and it sounds like the rebuild was done wrong.

j200pruf

iTrader: (4)

Fresh rebuild with 0 miles. I have a RB aluminum flywheel and counter weight. I just had a shop set the CAS, and they got it to start, but he said he used a different ECU.

zjbarra

iTrader: (2)

What is the CAS? When i put my new fuel injectors in my car, i had a problem with the air mass sensor (is that the same as CAS?) because when I removed the air box, one of the solders came off in the sensor. Car started up but ran like crap and wouldn't rev. It almost sounds like a similar problem with yours?

CarmonColvin

It is very possible you were sold the wrong counter weight for the flywheel. They will be different for the '86-'88 rotors and the '89-'91 rotors.

Did you buy the flywheel new or used?

reamia

if u want to sell it ill buy it email me at reamiarx7@netscape.net

j200pruf

iTrader: (4)

I bought it new, I was wondering that my self when I was told that.
But I have some good news, I just got it to start. The shop put the ******* spark plugs on wrong. But it was running on only one rotor, and vibrating really bad. I got it up to 3000 rpm and after about 20 seconds it made a funny noise and died. Now it doesn't wat to start again.

pp13bnos

iTrader: (1)

Who rebuilt the engine, and wich shop was this that told you the motor was crap? CJ

PureSephiroth

75 psi on both rotors sounds like it just needs to be broken in. Most rebuilds have trouble starting and run like crap for a little while.

j200pruf

iTrader: (4)

I rebuilt it, and I can't remember the exact name of the shop, I'll dig the recipt out of my car in a while.