Two easy questions, yes the car still runs.

First question....

I flushed my power steering system with Type F, only to find out "oh noes! Takes Dexron". Is my PS going to die?

Second question...

My passenger side door seal decided to not do its job about 6 months ago during a turd floating thunderstorm. The adhesive failed and so the seal became detached from the other piece that holds it on the car, so water just ran behind it.

I completely soaked the passenger floor, and thank god I have a water extractor at work. Water all up in the ECU, basically there was a puddle in the passenger floor board. Car runs great!

For the question. Am I the luckiest unlucky S5 vert owner on the planet? My OMP no longer works and the ECU doesn't care! I have verified several times the OMP on my car is completely non-functional and the ECU doesn't give a squat. My check engine light is like walking up on a deer, rare and you almost don't want to scare it away. My AWS system however will kick on no matter what the engine temp or ambient temp (bad side effect). I am considering grounding the neutral switch and just get rid of the AWS completely, which it would, but don't know the consequences of the ECU always thinking the car is in gear.

The car runs like a bat out of hell (ask Jackhild) and he said it is the most powerful NA S5 he has ever rode in. I guess my second question is, just ground that stupid switch, get rid of AWS completely and be happy that my ECU gives no ish that the OMP doesn't work or, get an adaptronic or replacement stock ECU.

 

I hate the AWS and have had it disabled for years, I'd just ground out the switch and be rid of it.
And if your car is running so great, I'd leave it the hell alone.

 

FYI theres a rubber drain plug on the passenger kick panel.

 

I wouldn't worry to much about the power steering. Aeration and contaminants are what can kill a hydraulic pump, not clean hydraulic fluid.

As for the ECU, I'd make damn sure it's dry along with the wires/connectors. If it were my car, I'd take it out, remove the covers, and carefully blow it out with compressed air. That'll also give you a chance to check for bad solder joints/burnt components. I'd get some Deox-it contact spray and spray down the harness connectors (follow the instructions,) and put it back in.

If you want to avoid the ECU possibly getting submerged again, you could remove the in-dash speaker/amp assembly and relocate it there. I've done this on a friend's '88 GXL that had a rusted out floor pan to avoid road spray getting in the ECU. Just for giggles, I went the extra mile and sealed his ECU with RTV silicone. It was easier than fabricating a floor pan.