I have a 1989 Rx 7 Gtus
#26
Wow, I did not know that, flooring an 89+ car cut fuel, I am going ti try it but if it doesn't work...
About the little leaky inj. question, I believe that rx's have signifigantly higher fuel pressure than normal cars (this is hear-say and realize that I am a fool for quoting it) which seems purtain, plus a flooding piston motor allows fuel to seep down around the o-ring.
I have had a car with bad compression and after doing that little trick (pulling those fuses) it would take much longer to start than my car that has inj problems
About the little leaky inj. question, I believe that rx's have signifigantly higher fuel pressure than normal cars (this is hear-say and realize that I am a fool for quoting it) which seems purtain, plus a flooding piston motor allows fuel to seep down around the o-ring.
I have had a car with bad compression and after doing that little trick (pulling those fuses) it would take much longer to start than my car that has inj problems
#27
I'm a boost creep...
Join Date: Jan 2002
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Originally posted by patrick2377
Wow, I did not know that, flooring an 89+ car cut fuel, I am going ti try it but if it doesn't work...
Wow, I did not know that, flooring an 89+ car cut fuel, I am going ti try it but if it doesn't work...
About the little leaky inj. question, I believe that rx's have signifigantly higher fuel pressure than normal cars
I have had a car with bad compression and after doing that little trick (pulling those fuses) it would take much longer to start than my car that has inj problems
#28
Opinions are like........
Lose the trailing plug washers....
Anyone try removing sparkplug washers to see if it made a difference? Put the spark plugs closer to the fuel. I am under the impression that the t(railing)op plugs have plenty of room and will not hit the apex seal. I vaguely remember that someone claimed that the l(ower)eading plugs clipped an apex seal.
Would someone with a spare rotor housing measure the available depth/clearence of the plug compared to the housing hot side? I hope that Mazda's housing casts are pretty consistent. I also believe that Mazda might purposely cast the housing to work without washers. Just look at all the incompetent mechanics that work at the dealerships. You mean to tell me that none of them ever lost/dropped a washer during a plug change and just tossed the plug in there without it!!!!!!
During my AFM failure, my car wouldn't run with the washers installed. After removing all the washers, the miniscule increase in CR and the fact that the plugs were closer to the 'event' allowed the engine to run. After replacing the AFM, I never bothered with reinstalling the washers. The car starts immediately and sometimes it feels that the starter is holding it back. It will run as soon as I release the starter after cranking for a second. The car runs better now than ever.
I am still waiting for the compression numbers on your car. And, what exactly(which seal) did the dealer try to BS you with? When was the last generic tuneup-if ever?
How old are your plugs/wires/vacuum hoses/battery/filters(air/fuel)/fluids/.....
Before the AFM issue, my car would flood occasionally. This was caused by either me: moving car in and out of driveway, or by the fact that it needed a major tune. I've never had any more problems and I still sometimes shut it off cold. Flooding caused the oil to thin out quickly. After 3-4 hard starts, the oil smelled like gas and needed to be changed.
I am using standard NGK rotary spark plugs in my 1991 'vert without any washers.
I am not responsible for damage that you might cause to your car. And always use a torque wrench. The plug feels different with/without washers.
Would someone with a spare rotor housing measure the available depth/clearence of the plug compared to the housing hot side? I hope that Mazda's housing casts are pretty consistent. I also believe that Mazda might purposely cast the housing to work without washers. Just look at all the incompetent mechanics that work at the dealerships. You mean to tell me that none of them ever lost/dropped a washer during a plug change and just tossed the plug in there without it!!!!!!
During my AFM failure, my car wouldn't run with the washers installed. After removing all the washers, the miniscule increase in CR and the fact that the plugs were closer to the 'event' allowed the engine to run. After replacing the AFM, I never bothered with reinstalling the washers. The car starts immediately and sometimes it feels that the starter is holding it back. It will run as soon as I release the starter after cranking for a second. The car runs better now than ever.
I am still waiting for the compression numbers on your car. And, what exactly(which seal) did the dealer try to BS you with? When was the last generic tuneup-if ever?
How old are your plugs/wires/vacuum hoses/battery/filters(air/fuel)/fluids/.....
Before the AFM issue, my car would flood occasionally. This was caused by either me: moving car in and out of driveway, or by the fact that it needed a major tune. I've never had any more problems and I still sometimes shut it off cold. Flooding caused the oil to thin out quickly. After 3-4 hard starts, the oil smelled like gas and needed to be changed.
I am using standard NGK rotary spark plugs in my 1991 'vert without any washers.
I am not responsible for damage that you might cause to your car. And always use a torque wrench. The plug feels different with/without washers.
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Red-Dragon_Akuma
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09-28-15 06:09 AM