I currently having a problem with the car flooding so its hard to start it. The Dealer told me to get a new engine but im not sure if I should because the car runs perfect when its turned on. Any suggestions?

 

If you don't let the car warm up before you turn it off there is a great chance it will flood. DO NOT get another engine. If this is the problem it is all electrical. If that is not it, then ask some more questions here. You will get the answers you are looking for. And use the search option on the site.

 

This problem is on all 86-91 RX7's. Any compatent RX7 shop will be able to fix this problem with a "fuel pump kill" wiring job.

 

clean your injectors

 

Well I took it to the mazda dealer and they said that it floods because some seals inside are bad and I have to change the engine.

 

Try this temporary fix:

1. Pop hood
2. Near the drivers side shock tower, remove the top 2 fuses facing you (red and green)
3. Crank over for 30 secs
4. Replace fuses

This should unflood the car and allow you to start it

 

13bpower is right. Never shut off a cold engine.
Sounds like the dealer is giving you BS.

My hardstarting problem, which lead to flooding, was cured by a good tuneup.

It is cheaper to change all the fluids/filters/wires/plugs, set TPS/timing/idle and run a couple bottles of FI cleaner through it.

Don't use the gas pedal when starting. Make sure your battery is up to snuff.

http://rx7.freehosting.net/techtips/starting.htm
http://beyondtheredline.fd3s.net/Spr...ers_flood.html
http://rx7.com/tech/unflood-fc.html

 

dealer *may* be kind of right, he could mean it is flooding with coolant because he has bad water seals.

 

I'd do a compression check on the motor before I replaced it.Could be a fuel delivery or electrical problem causing it to flood.I think I could see where a bad engine might cause it to flood but I think you should do a compression check on the motor and go from there.

 

the dealers answer 99% of the time is to replace the engine. because they don't know how to work on them. try to find a rotary / rx7 shop in your area and leave the dealer alone.

the 89-91's don't normaly flood. if it does. floor the gas pedal while cranking

 

Yeah on 89-91s the "fuel pump kill switch" is already installed from the factory...when you floor the gas on cranking, it kills fuel and unfloods itself.

That said, the dealer is right in a sense. True, your engine still runs fine once its going, but I bet a compression test rvealed low numbers. Rotaries flood easier with age and wear, and finally it will toss an apex seal causing damage internally and requiring a new engine. For now, the wear manifests itself as a hard start condition, just like wear in a piston engine might manifest itself in smoking.

May will say that flooding in an rx-7 is a result of faulty fuel maps and computer programming, and many more will say it is leaky injectors. I tell you what...I have performed injector leak tests as per the FSM on many an rx-7 injector and NONE of them leak. Think about it...they use the same ND injectors that MANY other import cars use, but none of them flood due to leaky injectors do they? Look under the hood of a honda or toyota and youll see ND injectors...a different size, but ND injectors the same.

YEt I have had cars that flooded badly, rebuilt the engines, reused ALL the same fuel injection components without any cleaning, and after breakin the engine refused to flood under any conditions.

In short, my theory is that flooding in a rotary is direcly related to low compression, with maybe another factor or 2 thrown in the mix for confusion

 

I'm sure the problem is your 4.3 gearing rear diff.

I have an extra 4.1 LSD I'll be glad to swap you straight up. I'll even pay for shipping both ways because I'm such a nice guy. I promise it will fix your flooding problem like magic, honest.

Oh yeah, and this advise has nothing to do with my WTB post in the parts section (hiding crossed fingers behind my back).

 

I disagree here. It's not a fair comparison; all other ND applications because they're not rotary. And i don't think it's leaky injectors as much as clogged injectors or those spraying a really poor patterns. I have redone injectors on a couple engines and that has usually almost always cured the problem. Both on motors with High (140K+) and newer motors (30K) However the motors with the higher compression rotors, due seem to flood less AND start easier. Especially when it comes to West Texas summer heat.

 

Oh and tell your dealer He's full of ****. Those are some of the dumbest automotive bastards i've seen. To have a Mazda Master technician tell me i have a mean cam.......Well i almost choked.

 

here i another quick fix

1 find the biggest shoe you have
2 go to the dealer
3 have him face away from you
4 try your hardest to stick your foot so far up his *** he can taste it

Justin

 

Why is that? ITs an EFI system all the same...

Sure its designed a bit differently such as the intake manifold design, and the 2+2 fuel injector/rail setup, but other than that is the same basic system.

 

Ok guys I took my car back to the dealer and they tested my compression. They said it came to about 2 compression and normal I think they said was 6.

Oh the car runs perfect when its turned on btw so I don't understand wtf the problem is.

What should I do know I love my car but I can't spend alot of money on it.

 

supermarn{fu},

I doubt your engine is bad. The dealership should have given you 6 numbers for your compression test NOT a single number. If you have those, please post them.

My 1991 Turbo II tends to flood after being shut off from 5 - 90 minuets. It's just leaky injectors - and as said above this can be repaired.

Since you have a 1989, just push the pedal to the floor when you crank the car to engauge the fuel cut.

Easy enough

 

I would say that it could be low compression, but as the others have mentioned, you should have more than one number. I thought the factory Mazda testers read in PSI, so you should see something like 100-100-100 for each rotor for example. For 1988, the FSM lists 85 psi as a minimum. Something like 100-80-100 could be a sign of a worn apex seal for example.

I agree with most of the responses here, and my same problem was solved by having the fuel injectors cleaned by RC Engineering. Mazdatrix sells a bleed off kit that could be a temporary fix.

If you want to solve the problem though, I'd bet you've got one or more injectors leaking.

Greg O.

 

It's not the EFI, it's the fact that a rotary is much more susceptible to losing all compression due to excess fuel in the chamber than a piston engine. Low compression just makes the problem even worse. I’m sure these injectors in piston engines get dirty and leak as a result too, but they get away with it longer than a rotary does.
It’s a combination of low compression and dirty injectors (both due to age) that causes flooding. Fixing one of these problems usually stops flooding occurring.

 

Well I'll give the old atf trick a try.

 

I also have a 89 gtus it to had the same problem the hell with the dealer or buying a new 13b all it is is that your fuel injectors are leaking and and the gas is not running back off all you have to do is call mazdatrix and
get a part that goes between the 2 fuel lines that make the gas run back off it cost $59 dollars and your car will never flood again!

 

whats the part called?

 

BTW - you should get your injectors cleaned ANYWAY. But seriously, it's not a problem - all you have to do is push the pedal to the floor & crank.

 

Do NOT put ATF into your engine.

Do NOT get that little Mazdatrix unflooding thing

DO have your injectors professionally serviced, then change spark plugs and oil.

Remember that injectors in a rotary engine are MUCH MORE prone to heat stress than a piston engine.