The Spyder

iTrader: (8)

I dont know why mazda made 90% of every mounting backet in my engine bay with nickel (?) pated steel, but I can not stand the gold color..

I ripped EVERYTHING out within reason and bought some gloss black high temp engine paint. I also repainted the off grey supports that were starting to show surface rust.

Oh I had already painted the intercooler, oil tube, and rats nest suport earlier then these
pictures..

Before:



After:



Looks much better IMO. You cant see about 40% of the parts I painted- they hug the rad supports and behind the strut towers.


Oh and my turbo oil return line leaked, so I fixed it right?

Well crap now my oil feed line is leaking .

pontious

Your air filter looks like it is missing the front part. I seem to be able to see into the filter. That would be a bad thing, so I assume my eyes are being deceived

Mr. Gadget

no some cones are open in the front as well for increase serface area, its normal

DEZERTE

What are you talking about? he has a cone aftermarket filter.

n4ji

iTrader: (1)

The boost sensor looks pretty nice. Kinda hard to distinguish what you did, any specific key area?

Icemark

You have the time to paint everything in th engine compartment, but you are too lame to even mount the AFM so that it works correctly???

marlaman

good eye icemark

The Spyder

iTrader: (8)

Is everyone being a jackass today?
Because ya know I dont need ****. Atleast 8 of the peices I removed had surface rust forming and I wanted to take care of it now instead of later.

I already fixed the AFM as best I could. I realized that right after I took the picture- I had it out to re jbweld the barb instead of just threading and rtv. Just forgot to put it on correctly.
Havent noticed anything different with how it was mounted for the 5 minutes to the parts store I drove it.
Plus I have seen many people mount it like this and not really have a problem??

Now I know why some people call this the evil forums .

The Spyder

iTrader: (8)

Hurm, for some reason I lost nearly a quart of coolant today.
Ill have to check that out tommorow when its light out.

Oh and about that filter-
Theres no hole, only a little like recess.
Zjbarr made me put it on my car :p. The k&n on it was pretty bad.

Dltreezan

iTrader: (3)

hey you got your car running right yet?? I wanna go for a ride in a tubro sevin

The Spyder

iTrader: (8)

Runs fine. Idles a bit screwy some time, but sure.

rotormaniac121

Idles are screwy in a 7??? NAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAH!!!!! I'd never belive it!!! </sarcasm>

The Spyder

iTrader: (8)

.

I gotta figure this idle out.... Im going to replace the TPS, I think its my main problem.

I am a bit worried- I think I fried the BAC controller in the ECU b/c it dosent do anything when I adjust it- the plug broke the other day and I think the wires could have touched.


I still do not see whats wrong with the AFM being mounted like that.
I understand that the AFM works it best when on a level surface because the flapper can be affected by gravity easier- but on the 4 guides I have read, and many useres that use theirs like this- I have not seen problems mentioned!

Plus no one posted in my $17 TID thread that It shouldnt be mounted any other way.

Icemark

Ah man... the S4 AFM must be mounted level.

THis is basic car electronics 101 and been covered countless times here and on several of the other boards.

In the position you have the AFM, (besides that it appears to be able to flop all over the place because it is beeing held in with micky mouse zip ties) the flapper door is angled back. This will make you run rich. NO MATTER WHAT. Now add the fact that the AFM can MOVE AROUND... gee do you think that the bouncing won't affect the reading???

So You say never ******* mind then. Intead of saying, "Ah gee Yeah I should fix that, thanks for pointing it out", you call people names. What kind of crap is that???

Go back to your other boards then if you are just trying to show off and not willing to actually get some help. Then go bitch to them about a bad idle and not passing any emissions testing.

maxcooper

Make sure the return line isn't plugged (and causing the leaks) or you'll be needing a new turbo soon.

-Max

The Spyder

iTrader: (8)

Point taken, but if you took the time to read the post below, you would have seen I understood this before. Why havent you gotten on everyone who posts their TID thats made like mine? Hell on the main page of teamfc3s forums its stickied at the top of the page, and yet no one in the thread mentions anything of the sort.

However since this is a TEMP solution, I dont care if I run rich. Im sorry, but I dont have time to be ripped off again on this forum trying to find a stock TID.

No that was a general statment to everyone elses reaction to this.
Infact your the one that started this "name calling" in your first ******* post, mine was only a responce. You could have just the same in your post said something similar, like you really should redo your TID if you dont want to run rich. Instead of telling me im lame.
Who is showing off? What I did had actual purpose like 99% of the stuff I do to this car. Im not wirelooming all my cables and painting everything yellow or red or something completly ricerish.

But ya know, I dont need to argu with you. Its not worth it because I do value your opinion when its usefull in many of the threads here.

The Spyder

iTrader: (8)

I dont think my oil return line is clogged- I cleaned out EVERYTHING before I put it back together- I think since its about the 3rd time the gasket has been resealed- I really need to replace it.

However I am having a very high OP, but Im also using a k&n filter.