I just drove 300kms yesterday to a car show and back and car ran amazing. Then today I come to fill out some paperwork for my new job and I go back to the car to go home and it won't start at all... So I keep trying and eventually it gets going but I have to give it lots of gas and if I stop it dies. sounds like its running on one rotor, has a hard time starting, revs really slowly and dies if i'm not giving it gas. i'm hoping ignition issues, i cant see myself blowing a seal on the way to my new job and then it not starting when im done.

Has anyone experienced anything similar? Could it be vaccuum related?

 

Sounds like a possible flooding situation.

 

I got it started though and kept it running for a few mins. Should it still be flooded? I can get it started everytime, just runs like ****. I was driving it normally before this happened.

 

Maybe it popped a vac hose.

 

exact same thing happened to me. I was just puttin' along in traffic when all of the sudden it just starts idling like complete ****, and revving slowly. but that was a stuck seal..

I ripped that shitty motor out and replaced it.

I highly doubt that you are experiencing a stuck seal though.. Probably just something stupid, spray some carb cleaner around the UIM and listen for the idle to change, find/fix leak!

 

compression test

 

sO we got it going running for about 30 minutes straight and I got an overheating exhaust warning light and we looked and saw the cat was incredibly red. So that means clogged catalytic converter right?

 

it means:


and justifies my recommendation meaning there is likely too much fuel in the exhaust not being burned, which generally means it is not being compressed and ignited by the engine. ie blown rotor.

all you're doing at this point is causing other things to fail.

 

Alright, I'll do a test tomorrow.

 

do almost all aftermarket headers replace the cat?

 

No. You need a cat or sa presilencer or a test pipe to complete the arraingment

 

if you're doing what i think you're doing you can just drop the exhaust from the downpipe and test it that way, or remove the cat(s) and physically inspect them.

but a blown cat will not make a car stall, idle like crap or run as if it was on one rotor. what i'm saying is, don't bother with the exhaust until you check the health of the engine, if the engine is good you can have that sigh of relief and then look at possibly a simple fouled spark plug, bad wire or corroded coil.

point being don't throw money at it before knowing if the most expensive component has taken a dump first. no point buying cat(s) or exhaust components if the engine died.

 

I think he's in denial...

Quit screwing around and check the compression.

 

I dont own or know anyone who owns a compression tester. Well replace plugs since its a cheap and easy fix. We removed one of the plugs, I forget which and it made no difference to the idle and it had weak spark. I know this may sound stupid but could using premium fuel then going back to regular cause any timing issues.

 

jesus ... so then pay someone to test it for you. surely there is a mechanic in Ontario ... and local to you. a compression test is not specific to rotaries, so that's not an excuse either.

 

Most parts stores can rent you one. Pretty damn easy to use too.


Fuel grade has nothing to do with timing.

 

Yeah forgot parts stores do that. But parts stores around here also cant find me any damn parts. Spark plugs are 7 $ a piece yet partsource wants 20 a piece.

 

For the amount of time n money you spent on the plugs you could have bought the $50 compression tester. Its not hard to do by urself, just prop ur phone up by the gauge and press rec.

 

I got the tester. Ill be doing it today. Plugs are $80 at parts source and 100 from mazda. So not buying them until I do the compression test. Where is the crank angle sensor located

 

plugs should be about $40 a set, a compression tester about the same. the compression tester is almost a necessity in a rotary car owners toolbox.

the CAS is forward of the oil filler tube or just below it on the turbo engines.

 

I doubt a compression tester is needed on this one. just remove the plugs, crank and listen.

 

CAS is the cool circle thing forward of the oil filler neck, that looks like it's missing something hahaha.. That's how it looks to me anyways

 

Yeah I found it. Got around 80psi on one rotor and the next couldn't get more than like 2 psi... tried both plugs and same result. This tester is old and not all together, but it worked on one side so it does work. Wouldnt that mean the housing or rotor is finished meaning I cant ecen get it rebuilt?

 

dead rotor. period. you'll have to wait for disassembly to see what you'll NEED for a rebuild.

 

too difficult to know for sure what it will need until the engine is torn apart. it could have minimal damage or severe and require replacing at least the rotor and housing.