midnightbluefc

iTrader: (19)

it has fuel and platinum spark plugs... the starter seems fine but it doesn't seem to start, i will start give it a few tries (3-4) i even have to start is with the accelerator all the way down... i have not unplugged the EGI because i don't know how to do it or where it is located... I've been told it could be a fuel injector related problem... i have recently bought a weber carburetor from one of my friends and wonder if that will fix my starting problem...can some one please help me out?

AreExSevenProject

iTrader: (1)

might be flooded...
pull the plugs and see if there is gas on them.
also smell your oil...
if there is gas it is flooded.
search for your un-flooding and you should be fine.

as far as leaking injectors...
well i believe that would flood it.

also starter might be fine...
but you need lots of battery power and compression up on rotors...

EGI is located by the engine on the drivers side fuse box...
its the one that says EGI...also pull INJ...which is injectors...

Ex-Eg-Driver

iTrader: (1)

Do not hold the gas down when you're trying to crank it. Its adding more gas to the engine. If it is flooded this would make it more flooded.

EGI is under hood near right headlight. A lil line of fuses.

dobbles

I thought that pumping it adds more gas but if you hold it to the floor and keep it there then it is supposed to not add any gas.

Chris Boots

? so Its still fuel injected. How is a carb going to fix anything? Does it start hard warm or hot? Its probably flooding out when you turn it off. Before you turn it off bring it up to 3,000rpm's and hold it there for about 5 seconds and turn the key off while flooring it as it beings to stop. This will help it to not flood as easily. How many miles on it? It could be just a weakish engine compression wise. If thats the case then be glad it does start. lol. But seriously. the EGI fuse is back left of the battery. Its in a big fuse box. I believe its the top fuse. you're box cover will tell you. The Fuse trick is done by pulling it out and then cranking the engine over for about 5+ seconds while you floor it to unflood it. then you put the fuse back in and start it as usual. I've always thought that flooring it while cranking will add more fuel. the TPS is in full sweep when you floor it and you would think its telling the ECU that it is at WOT so it should add more fuel... personally flooring a FC when it was flooded while keeping the fuse in hasn't helped it at all. maybe even complicated things even more idk. You might wanna start going through the basics of adjusting the TPS, setting the idle again, the IAF screw, (do all this with the initial set coupler jumped of course). Check up on the compression. maybe give it the water treatment-its worked for me. How does the car run once it is started and running? is it NA or turbo? I'm glad to help just keep filling me in on what you've done to fix it

RotaryResurrection

iTrader: (8)

Most of the time, starting problems that are consistent, are related to low/weak compression from a worn out engine.

Sometimes the fuel injectors can contribute to problems, or even be the sole problem on an otherwise strong engine.

Switching to carb may or may not mask the problem.

Fuel injected cars are pre programmed to inject X amount of fuel as soon as the engine starts rotating. IF the compression is too weak, this can result in delayed combustion, and a flood condition.

Carbs operate using the vacuum generated by the engine as it cranks. Vacuum is a reflection of compression. So, as the compression drops, the vacuum during cranking also drops. This means that a carb is less likely to flood (when the carb is working properly) than a fuel injection setup, ON A WEAK COMPRESSION ENGINE. Because the fuel injection still delivers the amount of fuel that the engine needed when it was new and 100%, while the carb delivers closer to the amount of fuel that the engine is capable of using at this point.

This is why 1gens can continue to run even with very weak compression, but 2nd gens have hot start problems even with marginal compression.

Ex-Eg-Driver

iTrader: (1)

Oops I guess im wrong lol

midnightbluefc

iTrader: (19)

its a non turbo,
the thing is it always(eventually) starts...
after trying and succeeding, theres
smoke that smells like gas it also seeps smoke from my shifter that smells like gas as well......
im gonna try the egi fuse thing now that i know where its located(for some reason i had thought that the egi was a wiring harness of some sort...lol.)

as for the TPS, how can i approach that is there a guide that can help a newbie like me adjust the sensor???
low compression? how can i adjust that? would i have to take it in somewhere?

midnightbluefc

iTrader: (19)

i tried the egi trick( cranking it with it off for 5 sec while flooring it) then i popped it back on and started it,
it started up way too clean!
and before i turned it off i revved to 3,000rpms for 5 sec and floored it as i turned it off...
i started it up and it starter up way too clean!(once again)...

TPS?
LOW COMPRESSION?

pynikal

mine has this same issue and it only seems to get flooded when its very humid and the air is "heavy" feeling. but other than that i have to floor it everytime that i start the car. usally starts up after about 3-4secs of cranking. i am going to do a compression test on it soon. i read some were that doing a compression test on this car is different from a piston engine. ill have to research it some more, but if anybody knows the proper way to do this feel free to post it or post a link!

staticguitar313

iTrader: (2)

is it hard to start when its cold, hot or both? my TII is hard to start cold and i've been told it might be the water temp thermosensor

pynikal

when its cold i have to floor it to get it to start. after its warm if it doesnt sit to long (like 10-20mins) it will start without the gas to the floor, but if i wait like and hour or 2 were the car has time to get cold i have to floor it to start it and sometimes it floods.

MmSadda

iTrader: (2)

...why would you want to carb it?

Try running fuel injector cleaner, and see if that helps. Techron can be your best friend.

Beyond that, look at Kevin's [rotaryResurrection's] advice. He knows his stuff as well as anyone on here. It's too bad the admins/mods like to mess with him.

midnightbluefc

iTrader: (19)

how do i run a compression test?

NoDOHC

Go to Autozone or Advance auto parts and buy a compression tester (you can take it back later if you don't want to keep it).

Unthread the trailing plug on the Front rotor, thread the compression tester in the spark plug hole. Remove the EGI fuse and have a friend crank the engine while you hold the release valve onthe compression tester. Record or remember the maximum value of each of the three bumps you see. If you see no bumps, this is most likely bad.

Repeat the above process for the rear rotor. If the compression is 95+ you are good to go, 85-95: you are ok, less than 85: not looking good. Uneven bounce heights are bad too.

Basically, you can read about the diagnosis in the FSM (Factory Service Manual)

I hope this helps.

AreExSevenProject

iTrader: (1)

has your car had a tune up in a while?
oil...?
timing...?
fluids...?

Oh...and isnt the "hold the pedal down to the floor to kill the gas" trick only for series 5's and not series 4's?

midnightbluefc

iTrader: (19)

i gonna take it to get a good tune up... it starts up fine now (with the tricks) but im still concerned i will run a compression test and find out whats going on...

AreExSevenProject

iTrader: (1)

yeah compression test and everything would be good.
usually after it floods you are supposed to change the oil...i think...because gas in the oil is no good!

midnightbluefc

iTrader: (19)

for some reason i feel like my car is losing way too much power... i really getting concerned...it back fires more when its warming up.... and smells more like gas...

midnightbluefc

iTrader: (19)

yeah i ran the compression test!!!

i think its pretty bad tho...


i got 80 psi on the front rotor and 85 on the rear rotor...

is that a reason why its still flooding???

because it still smells like gas and gas still rises from the middle of my car...like an exhaust leak..... is that ormal or is my fc running too rich?

RotaryResurrection

iTrader: (8)

From: http://www.rotaryresurrection.com/2n...ion_check.html

115+ is like new, 100-115 is healthy, 90-100 is getting weak(1 year or less in most cases) below 90 could blow at any moment.

Any rotary below 95psi is on the threshold of flooding, poor idle, hard starting, slight power loss, MPG loss, etc.

mayuka_sama

I am unsure as to how the ignitor timing belts would flood the engine ^^;;

SmogSUX

iTrader: (12)

I thought we had timing chains =/

midnightbluefc

iTrader: (19)

so my engine could blow at any time??? would the low compression have to do with an exhaust leak?

so once an rx7 loses compression...its over with???

midnightbluefc

iTrader: (19)

oh yeah i found out that my car is burning oil... hence the blue smoke....