2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992) 1986-1992 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections.
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Old 06-02-06, 10:58 AM
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Thumbs up i dont know if this thread ever posted?

i need a power graph of when the rpms top out 1,2,3,4, and 5 so i know exactually when to shift
my car is an s-4 n/a 88 slight mods, exhaust, intake, high flow resonator, emmisions bs tookin off, ac removal and interior gutted.
sorry if i did not catch in the faq but i searched untill my eyes went numb and my shoulders caluapsed so if you have a nice plotted out graph showing hp in each gear i would much appreshiate it thanx

Last edited by stevenx788; 06-02-06 at 11:08 AM. Reason: missed something
Old 06-02-06, 11:23 AM
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Take it to a dyno.
Old 06-02-06, 12:32 PM
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^^^

All cars are different. You need a dyno, and the appropriate program to calculate your optimum shift points.
Old 06-02-06, 12:33 PM
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As a general guideline, shift around redline
Old 06-02-06, 12:35 PM
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Once you start modding, the redline becomes somewhat superflouous. It is still a good rule of thumb, but take my car for instance, my optimum 1st gear shift is 7800. Well past the redline.
Old 06-02-06, 12:37 PM
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man

if i knew where ther was a dyno in my area i would take it but i just want to know ruffly, because i shifted at 8 grand and went to send gear and roasted the tires and my car hit zer0 to 80 in no time i was supprised i think my motor has been mildly ported because it handle high revs with out power loss. just wondering. it would make my day to dyno it but no clue where one is

i also bought the 7 of a kid that had the motor redone by maztech so it has ruffly 45000 miles on it runs strong too i dont know if it is a faster 7 or something because its the fastest n/a in my hood

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Old 06-02-06, 12:40 PM
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Drive up through your rpm range until you feel the power drop off. Shift just before that (depends on your reaction time). Are you talking for street driving, or on the track?
Old 06-02-06, 12:41 PM
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mostly street,
the only thing close to a track that i been on was the downtown st. petersburg florida grand prix, it was 2 days untill they raced and it was open for traffic so i did a few laps cool as hell let me tell ya!!!

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Old 06-02-06, 12:42 PM
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The butt dyno is pretty subjective, dont you think?
Old 06-02-06, 12:46 PM
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yea can anyone point out were there is a dyno in st. pete florida thanx
Old 06-02-06, 12:47 PM
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Originally Posted by J-Rat
Once you start modding, the redline becomes somewhat superflouous. It is still a good rule of thumb, but take my car for instance, my optimum 1st gear shift is 7800. Well past the redline.
True, but he has only slight modifications. I still agree though, the only way to really know is take it to a dyno.
Old 06-02-06, 12:52 PM
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god damit
Old 06-02-06, 12:53 PM
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you guys are kickin my *** no offence
Old 06-02-06, 12:56 PM
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Kickin your ***?
Old 06-02-06, 12:58 PM
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Originally Posted by stevenx788
you guys are kickin my *** no offence
None taken?
Old 06-02-06, 01:04 PM
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so no graphs?
Old 06-02-06, 01:07 PM
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Originally Posted by J-Rat
The butt dyno is pretty subjective, dont you think?
I don't know about other cars, but in mine, it's pretty easy to tell where the usable power drops off. In my case, it's not so much about numbers, as about usable power.
Old 06-02-06, 01:30 PM
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LOL! So I guess I am just a numbers guy, eh?
Old 06-02-06, 01:34 PM
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Originally Posted by RXgirl7
I don't know about other cars, but in mine, it's pretty easy to tell where the usable power drops off. In my case, it's not so much about numbers, as about usable power.
So... you ever think that the "usable power" drops off at a certain number? Just a thought.
Old 06-02-06, 03:19 PM
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Originally Posted by My5ABaby
So... you ever think that the "usable power" drops off at a certain number? Just a thought.
Yeah, it does, I just can't be looking at the tach, thats all. So, knowing that point with my butt is alot more helpful than knowing that it drops off at ~8300rpm. But there's nothing wrong with knowing numbers, or with being a numbers guy.
Old 06-02-06, 03:55 PM
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Originally Posted by RXgirl7
Yeah, it does, I just can't be looking at the tach, thats all. So, knowing that point with my butt is alot more helpful than knowing that it drops off at ~8300rpm. But there's nothing wrong with knowing numbers, or with being a numbers guy.
Go some place safe and keep doing runs while shifting at 8300, or whatever your optimum shift rpm is. You'll learn what it feels like with your "butt dyno", except now it will be accurate .
Old 06-02-06, 04:34 PM
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Originally Posted by My5ABaby
Go some place safe and keep doing runs while shifting at 8300, or whatever your optimum shift rpm is. You'll learn what it feels like with your "butt dyno", except now it will be accurate .
My butt dyno is accurate. I'm well past the "where do I shift at" stage of things.
Old 06-02-06, 07:07 PM
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Your butt dyno is inaccurate, and I will tell you why.

Once you start feeling a marked decrease in horsepower, you have LONG SINCE past the peak torque range. The BEST and ONLY way to calculate optimum shift points is to go to a DYNO, pay the $50 or so bucks, and then plug that information into a program such as the one my tuner uses.

Effective shifting, is a matter of AVERAGE horsepower over a useable range, not just shifting LONG after power decreases, or as soon as you percieve power to be lost. Its the same concept with turbos. Big turbos give big numbers, but over how much of your useable RPM band?

Anyways, have fun with the butt dyno, but it is wholly inaccurate.
Old 06-02-06, 07:54 PM
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Originally Posted by stevenx788
i need a power graph of when the rpms top out 1,2,3,4, and 5 so i know exactually when to shift
Power and torque peak at the same places in the rev range regardless of what rear you're in, so that won't help you.

A dyno is totally unsuitable for determining shift points. The only way to accurately determine the perfect shift points is to measure and graph the acceleration vs. speed in each gear. The perfect shift point is where the acceleration curve of one gear crosses the curve of the next gear up. But this is assuming that this occurs before redline, which is not always the case.

To measure acceleration cheaply you can use an accelerometer like this one:

http://us1.webpublications.com.au/st...1/2133_8mg.jpg

Or you can use an inclinometer like this one (using simple trig to convert angle to g's):

http://us1.webpublications.com.au/st...1/2133_6mg.jpg

Here's the reslts of acceleration testing on an Australian Mitsubishi Verada (218hp 3.5L V6 FWD):

http://us1.webpublications.com.au/st.../2133_11mg.jpg

You can see that on this car the optimum shift point for all gears is at redline.

If you want to spend more money, the Gtech Pro is a pretty cool performance measurement tool.

http://www.gtechpro.com/

Last edited by NZConvertible; 06-02-06 at 07:58 PM.
Old 06-02-06, 08:07 PM
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Originally Posted by NZConvertible
A dyno is totally unsuitable for determining shift points. The only way to accurately determine the perfect shift points is to measure and graph the acceleration vs. speed in each gear. The perfect shift point is where the acceleration curve of one gear crosses the curve of the next gear up. But this is assuming that this occurs before redline, which is not always the case.
Not sure what the basis is for this statetement.

You want to set your shift points so that you are maximizing the power output. You need to have a graph of the engine's power curve and the gear ratios. Use the graph of the power curve to set the shift points so you are maximizing the area under the curve. If you want you can make a simple graph of the engine rpm vs. mph and then draw in the linear plots for each gear ratio. The equation is:

mph=[(0.01136)(rpm)(tire circumference in feet)]/[(gear ratio)(ring and pinion ratio)]

Or you can just use a stop watch and test different shift points and see which is fastest, assuming that everything else is held constant.
Dyno graphs are the only way to accurately plot your power curve.

Example dyno graph with the shift points superimposed:



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