RX7 speed racer

My auxilary port valve is stuck closed at all rpms. What wrong? I start losing power at 6000rpm's bad! Sometimes I have the 3800rpm hesitation problem. What can I do to permentaly fix it?
My idle is also sometimes screwed up the tach will jump up and down between 1000-1500rpms. What could cause this? I new to working on rotarys. I had the car for about 2 years now. Its a 91 RX7 non-turbo.
So, if you could explain it in simple terms I would appeciate it. If possible send some information on working on RX7 performance wise.
I have a Haynes manual on RX7's. I need help>>>>

Hope somebody gets these.

Later

NathanRX7

First of all, welcome to the forum.

Your auxillary ports are probably just so gunked up with carbon that the actuators cannot move them. Are you able to move them with your hand? You have a few options here:

Remove the actuators (2 10mm bolts hold each one on, then they pull off), and zip tie the ports in the open position. This will cause you to lose a little bit of low end, but the more you modify your car, the less you will notice it because you will both gain some low end back and gain a lot in the high end.

Another option is to take off your upper and lower intake manifold, and remove the actual auxillarry port sleeves. After removing them, you can clean them and put it all back together and hope they work, or you can leave them out and put it all back together, achieving an effect similar to that of just tying them open to begin with, but they may not be an option if they are really stuck.

You might also be able to free them up with some WD-40, and maybe some ATF in the intake manifold to soak the carbon loose.

It may not be that the sleeves are stuck at all. You should also check to make sure the actuators work alright by removing them, and blowing hard on the metal pipe that goes into them. The rods should come out smoothly. Also, you could check to make sure the air pump air is getting to the actuators by removing them, and hooking them up with a hose long enough such that you can put them on your passenger seat, then go for a drive above about 4500 RPM to make sure the rods are coming out that way.

OK, now that the possible solutions for that problem are out of the way, let's look at your 3800 RPM hesitation and funky idle. The first thing I would do to try to fix this is go to Wal-Mart or some place similar, and buy some (two should be fine) thick *** grounding wire (Wal-Mart sells 4 guage battery to alternator cables in various lengths). Connect one of the cables from the negative on the battery to somewhere on the chassis of the car. I hooked mine a few inches behind and below the battery where the little bracket that holds one of the power steering lines is. The other one I hooked between my transmission crossmember and my Y-pipe on my exhaust. Before I did this, I tested the resistance between various metal points on my car, and was getting numbers as high as 30 (Ohms I believe). My goal was to bring the resistance between any two metal points on my car down to something very close to zero. I tested after adding those two ground wires, and all I could get was 0, so that made me very happy. It made my idle more consistent, and if there was any hint of a hesitation before, it's gone.

After you do this grounding, reset your ECU by disconnecting the ground on the battery for a couple minutes, and press the brake while it's disconnected to make sure any juice still in there escapes trying to power the brake lights.

If that doesn't help the idle, you should play with the idle adjustment screw on top of the throttle body and see if you can get something more reasonable such as a constant 750 RPM. While you're in there, listen for vaccuum leaks in all of the little hoses as this could be another possible cause for your jumpy idle.

If the grounding didn't fix your 3800 RPM hesitation, you probably need to run a new ground directly to the ECU. I forget which pin it is, but the ECU is under the passenger's feet's carpet. You can use a multimeter to find the ground, but I'm sure someone else will post here about what pin it is.

Damn, I just wrote a ******' essay. Good luck with it. Let me know on AIM if this helped at all. I have the same name on there.

NathanRX7

RX7speed racer: With the auxilary port what would you do first. Zip tie it and the rod on the actuator right now is completly straight. Or, how hard is it to take off the manifolds on the engine, and just clean it up. Because I am a rookie on these motors. And how time consuming. Pardon my spelling. I suck at that but could please tell me what you think would be the permenant fix. Thanks Alot.

Chris
RX7speed racer: Thanks.....
NathanRX7: actually now that i think about it, are u talking about the auxillary ports on the passenger side of your engine or the VDI actuator on top under the upper intake manifold?
RX7speed racer: the ones on the passenger side
]
NathanRX7: ok
NathanRX7: it is quite in depth and time consuming to remove the intake manifolds, so let's skip that for now
NathanRX7: are u able to move the actuators at all manually?
RX7speed racer: no

NathanRX7: ok, so they seem to be stuck
NathanRX7: it is pretty hard to move them with the actuators on there anyway
NathanRX7: so the first thing to do would be to remove the actuators
NathanRX7: lemme see if i have a pic of mine
NathanRX7: one sec
RX7speed racer: correct, I tried with my hand and wrench.

NathanRX7: wrench?
RX7speed racer: needle nose pilles

NathanRX7: ahhh
NathanRX7: ok
RX7speed racer: you can type fast
NathanRX7: did u see the 2 10 mm bolts that hold each actuator on?
RX7speed racer: the actuator is the goldish looking clyinder thing
NathanRX7: yes
NathanRX7: there should be 2
RX7speed racer: **** i wish I could go look in the car right now
NathanRX7: when about 2 psi air is applied to them through the little hose, the rods push out
NathanRX7: so u want to take off the 2 bolts on each one, and pull straight outward from the engine
NathanRX7: the sleeves have a little rod that sticks through a little hold in the rod on the actuator
RX7speed racer: on both actuators or just one

NathanRX7: so they won't come off unless u pull straight outward and jiggle it a bit
NathanRX7: both of them
NathanRX7: if u take off one, might as well do both
NathanRX7: do u have broadband?
RX7speed racer: can you print all of this conversation out
RX7speed racer: no
NathanRX7: damn
NathanRX7: well i'm going to send u a link to a big image of my engine so u can see what we're talking about
RX7speed racer: I have a calling card to talk with you.

NathanRX7: i'll post our conversation as a reply on the forum
NathanRX7: on your thread
NathanRX7: hehe
RX7speed racer: Is this real hard to do as a rookie.

NathanRX7: so when u remove the actuators, you will see the little things on the ends of the sleeves that turn
NathanRX7: no not really
NathanRX7: u want to wiggle them around until u can get them to turn
RX7speed racer: what do you mean by sleeves
NathanRX7: then push/pull them up the same way as the actuators would if they were hooked up and working
NathanRX7: ok look at this
NathanRX7: http://www.goldcoastinspections.com/...p/auxports.jpg
NathanRX7: i circled what u want to look at
RX7speed racer: I understand the rod and how they work like when there straight the port is closed and when they are bent the port opens
RX7speed racer: I'm printing the page but it seems like my engine is a little different?
NathanRX7: u have a 91 right
RX7speed racer: what that
NathanRX7: 1991?
RX7speed racer: oh yeah
NathanRX7: oik
NathanRX7: you've got it backwards
NathanRX7: the 86-88s worked like that
NathanRX7: 89-91s are open when it's straight and closed when it's bent
NathanRX7: well wait
NathanRX7: i'm confusing myself
NathanRX7: they're open when the rod is pushed out of the actuatoy
NathanRX7: on the 86-88 the actuator sucks the rod in instead of pushing it out
RX7speed racer: can you fill the port with your hand?
NathanRX7: no
NathanRX7: u can feel the actuator and the end of the sleeve
RX7speed racer: what is a sleeve
NathanRX7: http://www.goldcoastinspections.com/...ortdrawing.jpg
NathanRX7: look at this pic
NathanRX7: it's the piece that actually goes deep into the intake track, and lets air through additional intake runners if it's open
RX7speed racer: its that clyinder looking hydralic rod thing.
NathanRX7: yep
RX7speed racer: its printing right now
NathanRX7: cool
RX7speed racer: you live in CA
NathanRX7: yeah
NathanRX7: i'm in florida right now
NathanRX7: all your questions answered for now?
NathanRX7: what the hell are we both doing still up at 7 am?
RX7speed racer: all of this is on my e-mail of this conversation
NathanRX7: cool
NathanRX7: i'll put it on your thread on the forum too
NathanRX7: good luck with it
RX7speed racer: How long do you think it take He He
NathanRX7: to remove the actuators and everything?
NathanRX7: first time it took me about an hour and a half
RX7speed racer: Will need a jack to get under the car. or can I do it just with the hood up
NathanRX7: oh yeah, so once u get the actuators and get them wiggled loose, u want to try to use a zip tie to hold them in the open position
NathanRX7: u should see a zip tie on the left side of that first pic i sent u
NathanRX7: u can do it all under the hood
RX7speed racer: What tools will I need?

NathanRX7: 10 mm socket
NathanRX7: zip ties
RX7speed racer: What all done to your car?
Thats it for tools
NathanRX7: the car should be cold since before u do it since you're working right above the exhaust manifold
NathanRX7: look at my site
NathanRX7: http://www.goldcoastinspections.com/nathanrx7

Sniper_X

If his ports are even CLOSE to seizing, (as he said one has already done so...) then he CAN remove his actuators, but he will NOT be able to wire the shafts open. They are seized.

Besides, I HATE wiring screwing with them. - Lets make them work right!

The idea of blockin off hoses, and having ZIP TIES on my engine disturbs me.

these engines work GREAT if you fix 'em!!!
Theyre OLD, dirty, and have ALOT of things outta whack at this age.
Dont get into the business of modding the car until you are back to stock.

You're kidding yourself if you think that modding the car without returning it to stock is going to ever work.

here is EXACTLY what you need to do:

Your only option (if you want it done right), is to do the following:

You WILL be pleasantly surprised with the results of this process and the power, fuel economy and idle stability you get once your done.
(And you will have learned SO MUCH)

Buy a factory service manual.
(Print the one here , actually)

Check your engine codes first.
Record them.

Now....
Remove the upper intake system
Remove the side intake manifold
Take your injectors to NAPA for cleaning
($20ea. takes 1/2 day, and they come with new pintle caps, and all new rubber seals, just make sure you leave ALL the seals on the injectors when you take them in.)
Clean and check your oil injectors for proper operation
(They should pass air when you blow in them only)

Order new intake gaskets, shaft seals, and oil metering lines.
Order and install a new thermostat and o-ring.
(CLEAN the thermostat area WELL)

Buy a new BOSCH O2 sensor ($18) and borrow the special socket from the store to remove/install it. (auto zone should have both.)
Make sure you cut the old wire at the top of the old sensor, so that you have a longer O2 sensor wire when you reinstall it on the new one.

Purchase MANY cans of carb cleaner.
Purchase a paintcan full of parts cleaner (comes with nifty basket for soaking parts, like those sleeves!).
Buy a brass brush, and a bottle brush.
Clean the HELL outta everything! (take the time it takes)

Note that the secondary injector bleeds' holes are all plugged, and NEED cleaning. I usually order all new air bleeds, and install them, but you can clean the secondaries. Just be careful, and use a powerful cleaner to keep your contact with them to a minimum. Also, if your not replacing injector bleeds, DONT REMOVE THEM, the rubber o-rings and bleeds themselves are brittle.

I highly reccommend replacement of all bleeds, its easier.

Remove ALL the carbon and gasket material from the intakes, sleeves and block openings

Make sure all parts move smoothly, and are free of debris.

Make a note of the fact the alot of carb cleaner will go into your rotor housings, but this is okay, just turn the engine slowly by hand every now and then and spray WD-40 in there to keep it all lubed.

(This carb cleaner/WD-40 process will double as a better process then the ATF treatment when your done!!!)

Those actuator shafts will need cleaning BEFORE they are able to be removed. (use wd-40, carb cleaner and a LIGHT tapping/twisting action to release them)

(and replace the damn philips head screws on the shaft plates with hex head (10mm long) bolts from Home Depot!... they always strip cause they're impacted onto the manifold. You might have to hacksaw a groove in them for removal by a stout flatblade screwdriver, like I have to do all the time.)

Reassemble everything, using new gaskets, oil lines, cleaned injectors and rubber seals.

(WD-40 those seals and injectors before installation!!)

REPLACE ALL THE VACCUM HOSES YOU CAN!
(with new, thick wall hose from your local parts store.)
The old hardened ones will -NEVER- seal back right, and you WILL collectivily end up with a MASSIVE vaccum leak once your done.

Be EXTRA careful to remember/mark where they went, and DON'T remove one until you are ready to replace it, its actually not complicated.

(I also find that using a hose thats slightly longer is helpful.)

This whole project will takes me about 1 week of evenings (cause I have a day job).

It takes about 3 days for the parts to arrive if you order them all at once, but this gives plenty of time to clean everything I can see and prepare for reassembly.

This project should cost only about $200-250 or less.

Once your done, replace your spark plugs and adjust your throttle position sensor, remove your battery cable and allow the computer to reset.

Then, replace the cable, drive it on the highway about 10 miles, then let it idle in your driveway.

Does it run better?
You BET IT DOES.

Smooooooooooth.

I hove done this to FIVE cars now and without fail, they ALL now run flawlessly, and punch me in the seat when those secondary wir ports kick in!

As the days go by, you'll notice better and stronger performance, and as the new seals on the shafts break in, the secondaries will come in earlier end earlier until they consistently kick in at about 5400 RPM.

This is your first glimpse into the way things were way back in the first days of your engine.

You'll appriciate how these engines work alot more once this is done.

For a real kick, remove the exhaust manifold and look at the rotors themselves right through the exhaust ports.

You can see the apex seals clearly.


All the parts ordering I mention above, can be done by going to the Mazdatrix web site, visualizing the parts you need, and verify that your ordering the right stuff.

For better pricing (like up to 80% off sometimes!!!) get a quote from Revolution Rotary. they ROCK!

www.mazdatrix.com
www.revolutionrotary.com

You are now on you way to becoming a rotary resto-fanatic.

Sniper_X
Always Tinkering

ZachSpazz

Archive this thread...it's this question and "Can I turn my N/A into a Turbo" that overwhelm this forum. Plus, this is pretty much a great super-tuneup protocol for the N/A RX-7.

Gimpdiggity

I'm just posting so I can find this easier in the next few weeks...

This is a GREAT thread.


Jeff

MaxRX7

Archive

Sniper_X

I'm not trying to be snooty here, but i can't stand it anymore...

I wonder how many of the thread that I have posted long how-to's on have been archived.

I think this is the 4th or 5th!

It's nice to know that this forum exists and the people on it actually appriciate the efforts of others.

(By the way, if you research this by searching on my name, then you may mistake me for a bit of a "rotary purist".)

No rice, no half baked mods...

All rotor in my motor!

Sniper_X
Always Tinkering

EProdRx7

this sounds more like a TPS problem than anything else. When I first got my first 7 I thought mine was stuck also. I was going the wrong way with it. Little known fact is that the actuator is a pushers not puller. This is for the valve on the upper manifold. I don't have the lower ones... But back to the TPS I had the exact problem on the race car and sure enough it turned out to be the TPS.

Sniper_X

Its not the TPS this time.

Hes discovered that the shaft wont turn at all.

Either way.