Okay.. here we go... just got the car today, and yeah it's quick... boy is it quick.

Thing is, I'm not sure if the autometer digital air/fuel gauge was modified or not (it's the round one that goes from lean on the 7-o-clock position or so to rich at about the 5-o-clock position, with stoich between 10 and 2 position).. because when the car is under boost, it's reading right on the line between stoich and rich. That concerns me, I'm not sure exactly WHAT air/fuel ratio that corresponds to, but I'd expect it to be somewhere in the "rich" area under boost.

Second, the shifter... crap... man, it sucks... the car is quick, but that shifter is gooooofed up... I have to go kinda up and to the left to get it near first, then way to the left to get it *in* first. Then to go to second, I have to go oooover to the right, then kinda down and to the left and then to the left to get into second. THen third and fourth seem to be fine, and fifth and reverse seem kinda normal too. Any ideas on this?

Got the infamous "wiper works on one position" problem. Rear wiper doesn't work (although I think that may have something to do with the fact that the wire is cut to it).

Key for some reason is INCREDIBLY hard to get out of the ignition once it's turned from "on" to "off" but not to the "out" position (from "off" to "out" it's tough as crap to get out).

Man, it's quick...

It wouldn't crank after starting & warming it up for a few minutes, then shutting it down and leaving the headlights on for about 3-5 minutes. Seems like the battery could use a replacement.

There's a kinda metal like "dink" when I put it in 4th and let off the clutch (like when cruising at 30 mph, I put it in 4th and it makes a kinda "dink" from the shifter area).

I've only driven it for about 15 minutes so far, and this in the dark so who knows if I'll find something else, but yeah it's in nice shape..

The interior is *nice*... black cloth, cept the steering wheel is goofed up, I might get an S5 momo wheel (the wheel is seriously torn up).

Other than that, I'm really happy.. anyone got any ideas on the other stuff though?

 

Oh and it shoots fireballs like no other when it's cold... oh my gosh... just tap the gas and *blam*

 

try and get new bushings for your shifter. replacing the transmission fluid is also a good idea. www.mazdatrix.com has the bushings.

have fun

 

I have a similar problem with the shifter. From what I've been told, it is most likely the shifter bushings are worn out. When you take into consideration the age of these cars, the shifter bushings wearing out is quite normal. The Mazda dealer will claim that you must buy tne entire shifter assembly to get the bushings you require. However through other sources you can get brand new bushings.

This site has the shifter bushings for sale
http://www.mazdatrix.com/G4.HTM
Here is a write up with pics on replacing the shifter bushings.
http://www.mazdatrix.com/FAQ/SHIFTBSH.HTM

Another place to get them is www.mazdaformance.com

I'm told if you call mazdaperformance they will more than likely have the part in stock and for much cheaper than mazdatrix. The site doesn't adequetely list all the parts they have available.

Note: I've owned an RX-7 for about a month so you may want confirmation from another forum member to ensure my troubleshoot is correct.

I hope that helps.

 

ok that makes me a little more happy.. I was worried something was wrong with the transmission shiting housing, especially with that light clank in 4th (might even be in other gears)...

 

I get an odd clinking noise when I'm in 4th-5th gear. I felt the shift **** and noticed it was vibrating pretty good. So I presumed the shifter is rattling since the bushings are shot.

So if I had to guess, I would presume the noise would all, but disappear once the bushings are replaced.

 

yeah, replace the bushings and lube up and pivots and connecting points. That seems to smooth things out on all older manual cars.

change the fluid in the tranny and add some kind of oil stabilizer or synchro additive. It will preserve the life of the synchros a little longer and make shifting smoother.

 

Cool congrats on the TII.You gotta let me drive it. Any pics it sounds like its a nice TII.Click the banner in my sig and register in the new rotary forum it's nice.

 

Does the "clink/dink/tink" happen only in 4th, or can you hear it starting off on a level surface slowly letting out the clutch?

 

The RX-7 sound dictionary:

Thunk (when starting out) - Front diff mount.
Tink (when starting out) - u-joints
Clunk or groan (with suspension movement) - old grommets.
Zoom zoom (short cycle) - vac leak
Zoom zoom (long cycle) - TPS or BAC or grounds
Crunch - high rev shift to 2nd
Beeeeeeee - over rev or low coolant or low oil.
RrRrRrRrR - starter gear sound (normal)
rrrrrrrrrrrr - starter gear sound (flooded) (no compression surges)
RrRrRrrrRrrrR - starter gear sound (bad apex seal) (uneven compression surges)

Here is what's inside your shift housing:

 

As with any car you are new to, take it easy as you get used to the handling. Few cars have a 50/50 front to rear weight balance and rear steer like an RX-7. For example if you try a quick lane change at 65 without practicing first at lower speeds, the rear steer will be a big surprise.

About the U-joints:
As a U-joint starts to fail, it first looses it's grease, then the needle bearings start to wear and make slack & excess clearance. The extra wear sometimes allows the shaft to wobble off center giving vibration.
Then the needles start to rub & bind on each other.
As they bind & pop free from binding, you can hear a "tink" sound that rings the tubular shaft.
This can usually be heard just as you start moving.

 

With a bad U-joint you will also experience minor to major shaking throughout the car. It will feel like massively out-of-balance tires.

If they need replacing, PM me for info on how to get a set to replace in the OEM driveshaft. Many people on this forum still refuse to believe that I have located OEM replacement U-joints and they are pretty cheap. I have replaced mine and they work great, been 2 years now.

 

Ya that's my baby i don't think the tranny is out of a mazda i was told it was some kind of ford transmission. Ya that thing will move like a bat out of hell in third. That's when most people used to see the byebye7 plate on the rear. I'm going to miss that thing. If you ever go to sell it call me up or pm me. I'll buy it back. it's got it's little clicks and tings and grinds but it's all good when your pulling away hardcore on someone. Glad your happy with it man. I have a date with the lexus dealership this afternoon.

 

Dear god, in that case, get some form of fuel management.

 

Didn't pop when i had it don't know why it would pop with him.

 

It probably hasn't popped because it is running pig rich for an idle, unknown top end (under boost).

A TII with a blown rotor will pull on an NA...

Did you ever have that car on a dyno?

 

ya it dyno'd at 255rwp at 6,000 rpms running really lean. With stock injectors, stock fuel pump, stock ecu, and no fpr. @ 10psi. But it was really lean. So i bought the injectors, pump, and fpr. Have a s-afc around somewhere but it never made it to the car.

 

No doubt it needs standalone ems but i couldn't afford that plus dyno time.

 

crap, the u-joint thing might be the case, in that case, if the transmission isn't a TurboII transmission (weird...) then the driveshaft is probably different too, and might be "easily" rebuildable (unlike the "rebuildable not-rebuildable" story Mazda tells about all its parts)

Also, that sucker is running like 12 or 13 lbs still with the external wastegate, I'm wondering if it does have a 15 lb spring in it and not a 10 lb.

It likes to flood too. It's running at operating temp, and I'm not re-used to the TurboII clutch (plus this car is way more jerky than my '90 TurboII I had) and stalled it, tried to crank it and it wouldn't go... Had to pull the EGI fuse (actually had to do this like 4 times now, kinda annoying)... btw, rx7withnitrous: Is that a fuel pump shutoff switch next to the driver side door?

Other than that, needs some things here and there, definitely needs an underbody panel under the radiator, it's going to overheat probably if I run it too hard without that there, plus the FMIC gets jack done without it as the air can just go right by it.

But it's fast.. yeah, it's fast.

 

oh and can someone identify what air/fuel ratio I'm running on this air/fuel gauge when I'm right on the border between stoich and rich?



I don't have the manual so I can't tell, I'm hoping it's 11:1 or so at least, or hopefully even more rich than that...

 

how do your plugs look? they'll probably help alot with starting i know they helped me as i was having hte same problem with minor flooding

 

ya you can just turn it to off then crank it it's alot easier than the egi fuse

 

Yeah I should do that huh

 

I'll give you some heartbreaking news:

There is no way in hell a narrow band O2 sensor is worth more than 1¢ in the sense of tuning. That A/F gauge is most likely operating off the stock 1v range O2 sensor.

You REALLY (I almost can't stress this enough) need to get a wideband/dyno time with a form of fuel management.

 

I mean so I know, what a/f ratio is it at that point..

I just talked to a guy who tunes Wolf3D's and I think I'm buying a used one and getting it installed for around $1200 or so. It's the old model though, so no boost control unless I get an aftermarket electronic one.