2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992) 1986-1992 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections.

How to unseize a Crank Angle Sensor that is seized right into the aluminum housing...

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Old Apr 4, 2005 | 08:45 PM
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From: Bruce County, On.
Red face How to unseize a Crank Angle Sensor that is seized right into the aluminum housing...

I have a 1987 rx-7..the engine doesnt run so I bought the car dirt cheap...I discovered the problem...needs a CAS...the thing is the crank angle sensor is seized into the aluminum housing...I undid the bolt...aligned the pulley and what not.. and it will not twist..it will not move...nothing...I put penetrating oil on the seam....and nothing... how do I get it out to replace it??????
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Old Apr 4, 2005 | 08:53 PM
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From: Ames, IA
There's an O-ring that seals the shaft.

Really, I'd say just get a good solid grip on it, possibly with a breaker bar & c-clamp, and twist hard.

Otherwise, front covers are cheap enough... I have a few laying around if you need one.

-=Russ=-
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Old Apr 4, 2005 | 08:55 PM
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From: Hood River oregon
Rubber mallett?
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Old Apr 4, 2005 | 08:58 PM
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From: Coldspring TX
That's kinda weird...

Can you turn the engine by hand using a 3/4" socket and breaker bar on the front pulley bolt? If you can, remove the CAS cover plate and see if the CAS gear is turning while the engine turns. If so, good...

Try tapping it with a rubber mallet or other non-destructive item, the aluminum surfaces may have oxidized a bit inside the front cover that the CAS sits in (not a housing)...
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Old Apr 4, 2005 | 09:11 PM
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From: Bruce County, On.
The CAS gear is moving and the enigne turns over....just no spark... i tested the power going to the CAS and its getting it...just not putting out any resistance...I used a rubber mallet...it seems like the aluminum has oxidized and they are stuck together...I can not feel the little lip on it where it sits into the (sorry) "housing" nor can I turn it as if I was adjusting the timing.
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Old Apr 4, 2005 | 09:18 PM
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From: Coldspring TX
The CAS doesn't recieve power- it produces it (very small voltage) when turned. So if you're getting power to any of the CAS wires from the harness side, something is terribly wrong...

Try heating the front cover area slightly, then hitting it again...
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Old Apr 4, 2005 | 09:20 PM
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From: Bruce County, On.
sorry..thats what I meant....I wasn't getting any voltage (i believe it should be between 110 to 220 ohms) anyways i some times get ahead of myself when typing...

Heating that casing will be ok???
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Old Apr 4, 2005 | 09:25 PM
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From: Coldspring TX
Yes, heating the front cover area that the CAS shaft feeds through should expand it a bit, maybe busting the corrosion bond between it and the CAS body. Maybe...

If you have a HUGE pair of channel-locks, you could try twisting it with those too, but be careful of damage...

Ah yes, ohms is resistance, not voltage (power). The resistance is the coil windings of the magnetic pickup assembly...
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Old Apr 4, 2005 | 09:25 PM
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From: Silver Spring, MD
Very interesting. Perhaps one of the VR sensors moved too close to the wheel, not allowing it to turn? You might want to just pop the top of the CAS off (two phillips) and take a look inside :O
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Old Apr 4, 2005 | 09:29 PM
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From: Bruce County, On.
thanks...ill try that tommorow and get back to you guys
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Old Apr 4, 2005 | 09:36 PM
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From: St. Paul, Minnnesota
I just pulled a siezed CAS off my $65 13b. All I did was take a rubber mallet and hit it from the front at the tab where the bolt normally goes (bolt was removed) until it turned all the way towards the back of the engine, then used my crowbar and gently pried and rotated it towards the front of the engine.

After doing that a few times it was finally turnable by hand and lifted right out.
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