Ok so i set it to 1k ohms no problem, however, im curious if its suppose to give a readout throughout the throttle range? when i open up the throttle, it drops to no readout on my ohmmeter.

 

um if it doesnt throw a code, then its good?

 

im getting a slight sputtering under WOT /full boost recently.. rtek 1.5 no omp/doing premix. Recently installed omp block offs this weekend, was thinking cuz i pulled the injectors it could be wiring, but i just pulled them again today and all is good.. Im thinking if its tps or just a bad tank of gas *cheap Arco gas that i put in last weekend *.. will see tomarrow if it clears up , i threw in some 89 octane 76 gas.

 

just because it doesn't throw a code doesn't mean it's working great
I had all sorts of issues with my tps, a code is avoided when the "resting" output from the sensor is in spec.

As for the readout, it will be a smooth increase from resting resistance ~1kohms to around 5kohms

 

What I like to do when checking that style of TPS is first set it by voltage with the throttle closed (engine warmed up). The voltage is what the ECU actually sees. Then check the resistance sweep and make sure it is in spec, because the resistance sweep is what tells you if it's messed up or not. If you have an analog meter (with a needle instead of a digital display) it may help you locate and dead spots in the resistance sweep.

 

thanks very helpful!

Any tips at reading the voltage at the ECU? just sticking the probe into the harness end?

So regardless, i should get a ohm readout throughout the throttle movement right? Even if say I purchase one and its not on the car, it should still have some sort of ohm readout no mater what? which i am not seeing since it drops to no readout..

I may have to just find another one and really see.

 

Disconnect it and try to replicate the hesitation. It will run fine with it disconnected but you will have to re adjust idle if you want to keep it that way.

 

could i damage something if i try disconnecting and doing a WOT highway pull for testing? i suppose what your saying is try disconnecting it and seeing if the problem goes away, than ill know it was bad?

 

turns out my timing was off... got it adjusted, i think a vacum hose to the turbo actuator might be loose as well.. but i think that might have been it, i may need to pull the spark plugs in case they are junked up. but the sputter has cleaned up alot.... figure ill brush off the plugs, water injection clean.. and go from there this weekend.

 

My car has been acting really bad recently. All the symptoms it had made me know it was the TPS. After reading this thread i disconnected my TPS and did a WOT pull while warmed up of course. She runs great again. I have a spare TPS but i will put it on some other day.

 

Disconnecting the TPS throws the ECU into a fail-safe mode with 5% reading (for the OMP) at idle and 25% for everything else which means more oil consumption. The WOT AFRs will barely change, if at all. I have confirmed this with a wideband.

 

Good to hear