khoney

My mode switches (or the motor) have not been working for a good while. Neither does the recirc button. I can't defrost the windows, which makes driving a challenge.

Is there a way to unplug the logicon without removing injection-molded parts (other than the center console, which broke when I pulled it). The molded parts on my car are SO brittle that I dare not try to remove them. Can the logicon be disconnected from below? I read a post about removing the ducts on top of the dash, but that will cause them to disintegrate completely. I'd like to get at it some other way.

BTW, I do hear a click and the LEDs do light when I change modes. Does this mean it's the motor or connection to the motor that's bad?

hypntyz7

To remove the logicon, you take off the radio panel, and the 4 screws to it. Then pull it out as far as you can to disconnect the 2 smaller gang plugs on the back. There is one large bundle that snakes back in the dash.

To get to it, remove the instrument cluster housing and cluster itself. This is pretty straightforward. There are 4 wiring harnes plugs to the housing switches, 4 screws for the cluster, a large gang plug, and the spedo cable clip on the right side(pull the left side out, disconnect the large plug, then unclip the cable).

Now, under that large duct, rach your hand back. You can now find the snake wire that goes bahind the dash. Youre trying to get your hand back under the idiot cluster, which is where it finally plugs in. IT isnt real bad to get out, but it is fun to get back in.

HAILERS

Hypntyz7 is the way to go on removal. About the clicking and the lites alighting.......I'd download the schematics from the 88 fsm that is at http://www.mazdatrix.com/faq/rotorhsg.htm and jumper some wires to the air mix motor. That should tell you whether the air mix mtr works, or you could just ohm it out form the logicon. I did this when I first got a series ii so I know it can be done. Too lazy to look up the wires that need jumping. About the removal of the dash around the windshield, I had the same problem you have. Crumbles. First thing I undid just crumbled, was a single screw holding a maybe one inch long retainer in the middle. Crumble cake. By the way Khoney, did you fix your hesitation problem and if so what was it?

khoney

Well, I had two occasions where I got a water thermo sensor code while driving. I pulled the sensor Friday and gave it a heat test, watched it all the way up to 200 and all the way back down. Checked out OK. The connector was crumbling, and I made it worse when I took it off. Ended up RTVing it back on, hoping it will stay. That would seem to indicate either a loose connection or a bad ground to the ECU somewhere, but haven't had time to chase it yet. Weather is cooling down, so that makes it harder to reproduce the problem. Don't worry, I'll let everyone know what it is if I find it before I die.

HAILERS

Khoney....I just thought I'd pass on a fun thing (I'm easily entertained) I'm doing . I bought two 17 buck digital meters from Radio Shack, and mounted them on Idiot lite tray with velcro. I have one going to the front primary injector and the other going to the front secondary. At idle the primary reads about 12.5v and the secondary reads about 13.5v. Go down the road and the sndry reads 13.5v(out put of the altenator basicaly) and the primary will read around 11.5 to 12v. Pedal to the metal, secondary 13.5v and the primary rapidly decreases to about 2.5 at which time both meters go to about 8.5. If I drive gently down the hwy I can run over 80 without any noticable voltage drop on the secondary. I've got one of those female Molex connectors which I've got six signals from the ECU going to it. Monitor the 02 signal too. It appears to stay in the loop at least to 80 before it steadies out with a firm reading indicating it is out of the loop now. Got the Molex connector idea from RXSTER a while back. I'm using those *tap* devices to tap into the wires near the ECU. Also available at RShack. The tps signal ranges from 1v at idle to 4.65v at its full travel. You could monitor the signal from the water temp sensor like the above.

Anderson

Ok I was wonderign if it would be easier or Even Possible to jsut remove the Idiot cluster (what a name huh lol), and jsut reach your hand in and disconect??

Or do yo uHave to remove the dash cluster??

Icemark

You can get it from underneith if you have small hands and a limber back, but removing the cluster is by far the easiest way.

The idiot light panel removed will not give you access. The dash structure is still in the way