how often should I redline for carbon removal?
#1
Fixed the wheelhop
Thread Starter
iTrader: (9)
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: St. Petersburg, FL
Posts: 486
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
how often should I redline for carbon removal?
I have an '87 TII. Its all stock with an open exhaust and a FCD. I don't want to blow the motor (105K) but I don't want to be too easy on it and build up excess carbon. The engine runs excellent, but has low compression. I am currently saving up for a J-spec and fuel mods. So how often should it be redlined? Once a week? Twice? What do you guys think?
#3
Fixed the wheelhop
Thread Starter
iTrader: (9)
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: St. Petersburg, FL
Posts: 486
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Yeah, well, its just that I don't want to pop this sucker just yet. My wastegate isn't ported, and its all stock besides gutted cats. The poor thing had a shitload of carbon in the ports of the intake manifold. The throttle body wasn't too bad. So I know there is a lot of carbon built up on the rotors and in the seal grooves. I plan to ATF it soon. More replies!!!
#4
If you have low compression don't redline it. It's a bit of a myth that redlining the motor burns all the carbon and is good for the motor. A spirited long drive is adequate.
Trending Topics
#8
Rotary Enthusiast
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Boston
Posts: 1,203
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I never understood how redlining a car could be good for it since when your redlining the engine is turning at 7k or more i mean this is stress on the engine any way you look at it, but hey they are FC's i guess right? I redline everyonce in a while not too often. The maintence is what will save your car do very frequent oil changes, maybe change to premix. IS there any way to prove that redlining is good for our cars??
#10
stop stealing my avatar
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Canton MI
Posts: 825
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
To get the carbon out, I took off my air filter, and with the car running, gave it a few 5 second shots of carb cleaner. You have to hold the RPMs at around 3k or the car will stall. I was amazed at how much smoother the car ran after word.
Try at your own risk, it worked worked great for me.
Try at your own risk, it worked worked great for me.
#11
Rotary Enthusiast
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Darwin, NT, Australia
Posts: 1,228
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Damm I feel like I abuse my car compared to what some of you dudes are talking, mine cops about 10 redlines a day. However, im not doing it to get the carbon out though
#12
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Connecticut
Posts: 354
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I take my car to redline at least once every time I drive it. Why do you think the redline is there? So you can look at the pretty red color? And as for the carb cleaner thing, straight water is the best thing to clean carbon out of any engine. A mist spray in the TB while holding the RPMS up works very well. Try it at your own risk, but I have seen the results in a piston engine so I know it works there............
#15
Originally posted by RylAssassin
I never understood how redlining a car could be good for it since when your redlining the engine is turning at 7k or more i mean this is stress on the engine any way you look at it, but hey they are FC's i guess right? I redline everyonce in a while not too often. The maintence is what will save your car do very frequent oil changes, maybe change to premix. IS there any way to prove that redlining is good for our cars??
I never understood how redlining a car could be good for it since when your redlining the engine is turning at 7k or more i mean this is stress on the engine any way you look at it, but hey they are FC's i guess right? I redline everyonce in a while not too often. The maintence is what will save your car do very frequent oil changes, maybe change to premix. IS there any way to prove that redlining is good for our cars??
#16
Rotary Enthusiast
all of that strain is part of why the carbon is freed. If there's that much strain on the internals, then there is equivalent strain on the carbon.
I rarely redline, like once every two weeks, if even that. Mostly I drive easy, and occasionally take it to 5.5k.
I rarely redline, like once every two weeks, if even that. Mostly I drive easy, and occasionally take it to 5.5k.
#17
Full Member
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Gilbert, Arizona
Posts: 61
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
What Redline????
In the old days, I had an RX4 that shook its rear stationary gear loose. I had a friend that was a Mazda service manager and he got the engine replaced for me under warranty. This guy knew everything. He told me that the red line on the tach was pretty much put there for the flywheel and trans. He took my engine clear off of the scale just to show me. Best rotary I ever had. He also told me that frequent oil changes were the ultimate answer to longevity.
He also showed me a neat trick for reviving a dead rotor. He had a customer's car that had a dead rear rotor. To say the least, the car had not been well maintained. Before pulling the motor, he started the engine and poured pure ethylene glycol down the secondaries (slowly with the engine running about 3500 RPM). It, of course, started putting out clouds of white smoke, but after three tries the rear rotor started firing and the engine idled well. He said that the ethylene glycol was the best way to remove carbon from the seal springs. I saw it work and couldn't believe it!
Just as a reminder......The old Rotaries used straight ethylene glycol injection so that the damned engines would turn over in cold climates. There was a tank and everything from the factory.
I use ethylene glycol every once in a while to clear out my engine. It has some lubricating value (unlike pure water) and does a good job of keeping the combustion chambers clean. The wife's '91 NA (stick) idles smoothly at 650 and it's got 94,000 miles on it. I've never read anything about this, but it works well for me. The wife always shifts at about 4K and I rarely drive the car.
He also showed me a neat trick for reviving a dead rotor. He had a customer's car that had a dead rear rotor. To say the least, the car had not been well maintained. Before pulling the motor, he started the engine and poured pure ethylene glycol down the secondaries (slowly with the engine running about 3500 RPM). It, of course, started putting out clouds of white smoke, but after three tries the rear rotor started firing and the engine idled well. He said that the ethylene glycol was the best way to remove carbon from the seal springs. I saw it work and couldn't believe it!
Just as a reminder......The old Rotaries used straight ethylene glycol injection so that the damned engines would turn over in cold climates. There was a tank and everything from the factory.
I use ethylene glycol every once in a while to clear out my engine. It has some lubricating value (unlike pure water) and does a good job of keeping the combustion chambers clean. The wife's '91 NA (stick) idles smoothly at 650 and it's got 94,000 miles on it. I've never read anything about this, but it works well for me. The wife always shifts at about 4K and I rarely drive the car.
#19
you are missed
iTrader: (2)
if you fell the need to ask this is the wrong car for you j/k there is no NEED to go past 5500 rpm to keep stuff working, but the way i see it. why bother doing extra to keep stuff working if you don't drive in a way that needs it? if your want to get rid of carbon put some Marvel oil in your tank.
#20
Full Member
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Wa
Posts: 232
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Re: What Redline????
Originally posted by allenbillings
he started the engine and poured pure ethylene glycol down the secondaries (slowly with the engine running about 3500 RPM). It, of course, started putting out clouds of white smoke, but after three tries the rear rotor started firing and the engine idled well. He said that the ethylene glycol was the best way to remove carbon from the seal springs. I saw it work and couldn't believe it!
Just as a reminder......The old Rotaries used straight ethylene glycol injection so that the damned engines would turn over in cold climates. There was a tank and everything from the factory.
I use ethylene glycol every once in a while to clear out my engine. It has some lubricating value (unlike pure water) and does a good job of keeping the combustion chambers clean. The wife's '91 NA (stick) idles smoothly at 650 and it's got 94,000 miles on it. I've never read anything about this, but it works well for me. The wife always shifts at about 4K and I rarely drive the car.
he started the engine and poured pure ethylene glycol down the secondaries (slowly with the engine running about 3500 RPM). It, of course, started putting out clouds of white smoke, but after three tries the rear rotor started firing and the engine idled well. He said that the ethylene glycol was the best way to remove carbon from the seal springs. I saw it work and couldn't believe it!
Just as a reminder......The old Rotaries used straight ethylene glycol injection so that the damned engines would turn over in cold climates. There was a tank and everything from the factory.
I use ethylene glycol every once in a while to clear out my engine. It has some lubricating value (unlike pure water) and does a good job of keeping the combustion chambers clean. The wife's '91 NA (stick) idles smoothly at 650 and it's got 94,000 miles on it. I've never read anything about this, but it works well for me. The wife always shifts at about 4K and I rarely drive the car.
Just a thought... does ethylene glycol work like Automatic transmission fluid treatment? If not what are the differences and where can ethylene glycol be purchased? Interesting topic BTW
#21
Refined Valley Dude
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Kitchener, Ontario (Hamilton's armpit)
Posts: 2,283
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes
on
2 Posts
Uh, wait a minute. Are we talking ethylene glycol as in the main ingredient in anti-freeze?
If so, that stuff dissolves rubber. Want an example of how fast? Next time you do a coolant change/flush, pour a little blurp of it on the ground and step in it (assuming you're wearing running shoes.) Now put that foot on dry pavement or cement and push it away from you. It slid like you put it on ice, didn't it? That's how quickly it attacks the rubber.
I'm not challenging that it works for you. I've taken enough crap myself over supporting other 'controversial' maintenance techniques. I want to point out that IF we're talking about the same thing (ethylene glycol/antifreeze) then those who do this are pouring a potentially damaging liquid into their motors. The apex seals and rotors aren't rubber, but the oil side seals are. I don't know enough about how things work in there to speculate on whether or not the ethylene glycol would reach them. I'd guess not from reading about the longevity of your motors, but the whole thing still makes me wonder...
If so, that stuff dissolves rubber. Want an example of how fast? Next time you do a coolant change/flush, pour a little blurp of it on the ground and step in it (assuming you're wearing running shoes.) Now put that foot on dry pavement or cement and push it away from you. It slid like you put it on ice, didn't it? That's how quickly it attacks the rubber.
I'm not challenging that it works for you. I've taken enough crap myself over supporting other 'controversial' maintenance techniques. I want to point out that IF we're talking about the same thing (ethylene glycol/antifreeze) then those who do this are pouring a potentially damaging liquid into their motors. The apex seals and rotors aren't rubber, but the oil side seals are. I don't know enough about how things work in there to speculate on whether or not the ethylene glycol would reach them. I'd guess not from reading about the longevity of your motors, but the whole thing still makes me wonder...
#22
Full Member
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: new york
Posts: 69
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
coolant disolves rubber????? what about all the rubber hoses seals and o rings that are in every coolant system since the begining of time. coolant does not disolve rubber any more than oil. the whole slipery shoe thing would be the same with oil also, but because of the lubracating properties not because your shoe is melting.
#23
Full Member
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Florida
Posts: 140
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally posted by White_FC
Damm I feel like I abuse my car compared to what some of you dudes are talking, mine cops about 10 redlines a day. However, im not doing it to get the carbon out though
Damm I feel like I abuse my car compared to what some of you dudes are talking, mine cops about 10 redlines a day. However, im not doing it to get the carbon out though
#24
Refined Valley Dude
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Kitchener, Ontario (Hamilton's armpit)
Posts: 2,283
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes
on
2 Posts
Originally posted by wankel drwankel
coolant disolves rubber????? what about all the rubber hoses seals and o rings that are in every coolant system since the begining of time. coolant does not disolve rubber any more than oil. the whole slipery shoe thing would be the same with oil also, but because of the lubracating properties not because your shoe is melting.
coolant disolves rubber????? what about all the rubber hoses seals and o rings that are in every coolant system since the begining of time. coolant does not disolve rubber any more than oil. the whole slipery shoe thing would be the same with oil also, but because of the lubracating properties not because your shoe is melting.
Another story about coolant.
The company that I work for has a shop to maintain their heavy equipment in. It's a family-run business and they try to service everything themselves.
Short version - one day the son was topping up the windshield washer fluid in all of the dump trucks. Well, sometime earlier he had used an empty WWF container to store coolant. He used this same container to top-up all the WWF reservoirs.
The next day it rains. Everyone drives out to the job site and then spends the next hour trying to scrape the remains of the wipers off of their windshields because the coolant ate the wiper blades, leaving one hell of a mess.
Also, last fall scathcart was looking for recommendations for goo to put on his tires to get the most smoke out them. Guess who recommended coolant? He later reported back that it was the coolant that produced the best results.
https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showth...hreadid=121008
Originally posted by scathcart
Under testing: Straight antifreeze is working best.... I think I'll still use bleach though.
Under testing: Straight antifreeze is working best.... I think I'll still use bleach though.
As for corroding the innards of the cooling sys, the components are designed to carry coolant. Just like you wouldn't use ordinary rubber hose to carry gasoline, so too would you use a particular hose type, etc to carry coolant.
I don't know whether or not the oil rings would tolerate exposure to coolant (if they even would come into contact with coolant doing the suggested cleaning...?)
#25
Full Member
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Wa
Posts: 232
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Coolant is not acid, it will not eat through your shoe that quickly. If you got some bleach on the other hand it might do something of that sort. Coolant does have chemicals that probably will break down rubber but not in that short period of time. The rubber on your shoes is not that much softer than the hoses used in your car.