How much power out of Turbo 2 with least money
How much power out of Turbo 2 with least money
Hi All,
I'm new to this forum and was interested to hear from some of you Turbo 2 owners out there what it takes to make those cars faster and more power. I used to own one when I was 18 years old and didn't know anything about cars at that time. Right now I own a turbo Miata and was considering getting another Turbo 2. What does it take to make the car have about 200-230 hp at the wheels. Are these cars reliable at those power levels. I know the drive train is awsome as many Miata guys are putting it in their turbo cars. Do you have to go to after market ecu, different turbo, cooling etc to achive those power levels. What's going to be the major obsticle in getting there.
Thanks in advance.
Mike
I'm new to this forum and was interested to hear from some of you Turbo 2 owners out there what it takes to make those cars faster and more power. I used to own one when I was 18 years old and didn't know anything about cars at that time. Right now I own a turbo Miata and was considering getting another Turbo 2. What does it take to make the car have about 200-230 hp at the wheels. Are these cars reliable at those power levels. I know the drive train is awsome as many Miata guys are putting it in their turbo cars. Do you have to go to after market ecu, different turbo, cooling etc to achive those power levels. What's going to be the major obsticle in getting there.
Thanks in advance.
Mike
the major obsticle, imo, is the ic and fuel.
here's a list of "some" of the mods to achieve 230+ at the wheels...(oh yeah and they are very reliable at the 230 or so hp level)
upgrade (not inorder):
-intake
-exhaust
-fuel pump
-fuel injectors (720cc @ secondary)
-front mount ic
-safc
-boost controller
-turbo timer
-and gauges (i.e. a/f and/or egt, boost, etc)
here's a list of "some" of the mods to achieve 230+ at the wheels...(oh yeah and they are very reliable at the 230 or so hp level)
upgrade (not inorder):
-intake
-exhaust
-fuel pump
-fuel injectors (720cc @ secondary)
-front mount ic
-safc
-boost controller
-turbo timer
-and gauges (i.e. a/f and/or egt, boost, etc)
$1,000 - full exhaust, intake, fuel pump, FCD
That's a 250hp+ vehicle that has the potential to do DEEP 13's down the 1/4-mile.
I'd suggest pouring the first $1,000 into the car to fix all the things that NEED to be fixed, else it's going to drive you crazy...
-Ted
That's a 250hp+ vehicle that has the potential to do DEEP 13's down the 1/4-mile.
I'd suggest pouring the first $1,000 into the car to fix all the things that NEED to be fixed, else it's going to drive you crazy...
-Ted
I just hit 260 and some change at the rear wheel with a buddies Serise 5 I work on. This what has been done so far for more power.
-3" RSR down pipe
-3" magnaflow pre-silencer
-Corksport cat back (with 2.5" section removed)
-Knight Sport FCD
-Walbro 255lph fuel pump
-Blitz S.S. air filter
-Sr motorsports 9.5lb flywheel
-Boost at 1bar (Greddy profect-b doesn't like holding boost at .8)
This stock port, stock IC, with a/c and power steering removed.
This car belongs to Jerk Racer here on the forum. And all parts are of his preferance, and obiously work very well.
Ryan
-3" RSR down pipe
-3" magnaflow pre-silencer
-Corksport cat back (with 2.5" section removed)
-Knight Sport FCD
-Walbro 255lph fuel pump
-Blitz S.S. air filter
-Sr motorsports 9.5lb flywheel
-Boost at 1bar (Greddy profect-b doesn't like holding boost at .8)
This stock port, stock IC, with a/c and power steering removed.
This car belongs to Jerk Racer here on the forum. And all parts are of his preferance, and obiously work very well.
Ryan
I just hit 260 and some change at the rear wheel with a buddies Serise 5 I work on. This what has been done so far for more power.
-3" RSR down pipe
-3" magnaflow pre-silencer
-Corksport cat back (with 2.5" section removed)
-Knight Sport FCD
-Walbro 255lph fuel pump
-Blitz S.S. air filter
-Sr motorsports 9.5lb flywheel
-Boost at 1bar (Greddy profect-b doesn't like holding boost at .8)
This stock port, stock IC, with a/c and power steering removed.
This car belongs to Jerk Racer here on the forum. And all parts are of his preferance, and obiously work very well.
-3" RSR down pipe
-3" magnaflow pre-silencer
-Corksport cat back (with 2.5" section removed)
-Knight Sport FCD
-Walbro 255lph fuel pump
-Blitz S.S. air filter
-Sr motorsports 9.5lb flywheel
-Boost at 1bar (Greddy profect-b doesn't like holding boost at .8)
This stock port, stock IC, with a/c and power steering removed.
This car belongs to Jerk Racer here on the forum. And all parts are of his preferance, and obiously work very well.
I'd say buy a stand alone computer, Wolf EMS, Haltech, whatever, a set of big injectors, Bosch 575hp fuel pump (185.00) and with all the money from selling the stock ecu crap you took off, go buy an IC....That'll get you into the low 12's forsure...maybe even 11's.....
Brad Apold
Brad Apold
Originally posted by moremazda
I just hit 260 and some change at the rear wheel with a buddies Serise 5 I work on.....
I just hit 260 and some change at the rear wheel with a buddies Serise 5 I work on.....
and your A/F is at what??....
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Wow RETed, now we know why you car glows red underneath without a neon light kit 

Originally posted by RETed
I do it all the time.  The pulsewidths get stupid (over 90%), but it all still holds together at 14psi.
-Ted
I do it all the time.  The pulsewidths get stupid (over 90%), but it all still holds together at 14psi.

-Ted
Thanks to moremazda for taking my car in for a powercheck while I was in Japan. 
I was only expecting about 230 or so to the wheels. Was I ever surprised with this one. One run did 265rwhp, but the rest were at 260rwhp. From the dyno readouts, my a/f ratio is usually about 13:1. 13.5:1 being the leanest and 12:1 at the richend. Stock ECU maps. Even with the 3800rpm stumble, it's still not too bad. Right now the stock wastegate is the reason the ProfecB can do it's job properly. I'd rather it not go to one bar, but it's been running like a champ for ages like this. After numerous autocrosses, lapping days, and whatever comes with daily driving it still has yet to start belching oil smoke. But I have a whole pile of parts ready to go for the next step up once this turbo goes.

I was only expecting about 230 or so to the wheels. Was I ever surprised with this one. One run did 265rwhp, but the rest were at 260rwhp. From the dyno readouts, my a/f ratio is usually about 13:1. 13.5:1 being the leanest and 12:1 at the richend. Stock ECU maps. Even with the 3800rpm stumble, it's still not too bad. Right now the stock wastegate is the reason the ProfecB can do it's job properly. I'd rather it not go to one bar, but it's been running like a champ for ages like this. After numerous autocrosses, lapping days, and whatever comes with daily driving it still has yet to start belching oil smoke. But I have a whole pile of parts ready to go for the next step up once this turbo goes.
I'll be running 1 Bar or slightly less on stock IC and ports, but my injectors are going to be bigger. And it won't be long after that that I get an FMIC.
Edit: And before I get more flames than some people's tailpipes, let me assure you all that I'll have the fuel to run that setup.
Maybe not the wastegate, heh, but I'll have the fuel.
Edit: And before I get more flames than some people's tailpipes, let me assure you all that I'll have the fuel to run that setup.
Maybe not the wastegate, heh, but I'll have the fuel.
Last edited by $150FC; Oct 18, 2002 at 03:43 PM.
I know they claim 59hp gain but its not that much. Like I said, buy a stand alone ECU, sell off the stock garbage for additional money to buy other things. You will solve alot of problems and you will get alot more hp out of the stock setup ....providing you have access to a dyno and can install yourself its the only way to fly....My .02 of course
Brad
Brad
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