jdmrbust

I have a 87 TII -rebuilt with 2m 2pc oem apex seals and a streetport. I have a new turbo its a t4 with exhaust a/r of 1.1- comp a/r.60. Also manifold, open wastgate piping and 3 in mandrel turbo back exhaust- 3 in TID and filter. FMIC and 3 in piping for it. The wastgate spring is 8psi. I need to get a boost controller before i bolt it all on. I have a 255 fuel pump also. OK, heres the question...

I plan on using 550 primaries and 720 or 780 sec. and my goal is 300 rwhp. will an rtek 1.7 with a better fpr and bigger sec inj be enough fuel to support 8psi on this setup?

jdmrbust

bump

eriksseven

iTrader: (6)

You should probably go bigger on the secondaries. Simply because there's not much of a cost-difference between the sizes and because you don't want to sell yourself short...

Also, anytime you move up in the turbo world, you've REALLY got to consider moving up in the ECU world too... lol.

The R-Tek 1.7 is really designed for the stock turbo + 720's. Not a much bigger turbo + much bigger injectors.

Be careful duuuude. Go standalone ECU and tune the car properly.

jdmrbust

i cant get tuning in this area and i am not confidant enough to tune a standalone myself- so thats where im at

KompressorLOgic

iTrader: (6)

hmm, well you will certainly have to add fuel with that size of turbo, the question of how much is another story...


your gonna need the car dyno tuned with a wide band to make sure you have enough fuel. using the rtek and a SAFC to adjust it

sleeperfc

people spend the money for a full t4 setup... but really wanna keep the stock ems.

I dont get it.

you say its cuz you dont want to tune it, But tuning a haltech is mush easier then what you gonna try to do with piggy backs. Start with a base map and a little fine tuning and its done.

The safc you gonna have a hard time... you need to run big secondaries to have the fuel on tap for that turbo. The sock ecu limits the injector duty cycle to something like 65% does it not? The fuel calc on www.rx7.com might help in that dept.

Some people have had success with 3x720s and a safc. search for people running that setup. altho i doubt the r-tek will be happy with it.

FB II

go stand alone or bust.

think of that stock ecu as a restriction! the power potential and reliablity go down dramatically using the stock brain (which is that of a 4 year old) and such upgrades. the car wants fuel and the ecu just wants to eat a hot dog while you explode.

get a haltech, like sleeper said.. it's so easy to just get a base map and do a little LEARNING and you will have a nice reliable beast

it's worth it.

Nihilanthic

Get a Megasquirt... cheap and it works.

Wankel7

Huh, for some reason your confident enough to go full turbo which is more confidence than like 95% of the guys here (me included) but you won't do a standalone?

I would agree with bigger secondaries, upgraded fuel pump, and make sure it is rewired.

What kind of intercooler are you running?

Why do you need a boost controler off the bat? you really don't. Just take the boost line from the compressor and route that straight to the wastegate actuator. That should keep the boost nice and low.

James

Nihilanthic

jdmrbust - with a safe base VE% curve (overly rich...) new megasquirts can tune themselves if you have a WB02, you just gotta drive it around. All you have to to is tell it the A/F R you want and it will change the VE until it finds it. Then, you can just drive to a place to get it properly tuned, or just stick with the AF Rs you set it for.

Obviously with a dyno you can find the ideal AFR for max power, but I dont see how you could go wrong tuning for 11.5:1 or 12:1 under boost with conservative spark.