thanks petex ...ill do anything to help rx7 owners because the dealers are way to expensive ..all you do is get your fuel and ignition system up to par battery included all my friends rx7s have the rewire and brand knew batterys and grounds .....because look at it the rx8s flood and there fairly knew ..all i say is that you have to get the motor to spin fast so it doesnt get chance to flood

 

Fuel Pressure Regulator

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The FPR is located on the secondary fuel rail. It's vacuum port connects to the vacuum port pointing towards the driver's side on the dynamic chamber (DC) near where the DC meets the UIM.



Pressure Sensor

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The pressure sensor, a black box located near the passenger-side shock/strut tower, connects to the port angled towards the passenger-front of the car located on the UIM where the UIM meets the LIM. There is a "pill" in this vacuum line that you need to transfer into your new line if you replace it with a new one.



Fuel Injector Air Bleeds

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Each secondary injector has its own air bleed, and the primary injectors share a single air bleed. All three need to be T'd to the top of three vacuum ports on the S5 dynamic chamber. That top port leads through the central hole in the black plastic spacer between dynamic chamber and throttle body. The In the throttle body, the route finally exits through a tiny hole just in front of the bottom butterfly valve.



Oil Injector Air Bleeds

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The four oil injector air bleeds are near the primary fuel injectors. The four leads combine into one larger lead in the vacuum spider. The four-into-one disc should be kept because it is a valve which keeps oil from leaking when the engine is off. The single large hose off of the spider needs to be replaced with new hose, because the stock port on the S4 throttle body is not on the S5. Instead, the new hose should route to the air funnel. There should be a capped black tube that is the perfect size already on the primary air tube to use.



BACV

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Some leave the Bypass Air Control Valve (BACV) off, but as the [Idle System Overview] suggests, removing the BACV will mean introducing idle problems. The BACV needs metered air in front of the TB, and because the S5 BACV is on the passenger-side UIM, while in the S4 it was on the driver-side dynamic chamber, some re-routing needs to happen; the large metal tube off the bottom of the air funnel is ideal.



Fuel Lines

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New fuel injection hose is needed. One line runs from the fuel filter to the side of the primary fuel rail facing forward (the side with the pulsation damper). The other end of the primary fuel rail needs to connect to the rear-facing end of the secondary fuel rail (the end without the pressure regulator). Finally, the end of the secondary fuel rail facing forward needs to connect to the fuel return, sticking through the firewall on the driver's side.

Note: The primary fuel rail is below the UIM on the engine block, while the secondary fuel rail is on top of the UIM

 

Well I went out to work on my 7 this weekend. I thought to myself why not try to start it before I start tearing into the fuel system...

First try it fired right up... I was mad at first, cause I actually didnt fix anything wrong with the car. Then I was just glad it was running again

Did a compression test, came out 95PSI on the front and rear. So, I dont know if that is good or not...

My dad thinks it was bad gas, I parked it in my shop with just at 1/4 a tank, he thinks that some water developed in my tank, my shop gets pretty cold and sometimes when it warms it can make condensation... So who knows...

I will just continue to drive it til something else goes wrong

I am going to flush the cooling system this week, looks pretty nasty...

 

nice! just keep up with maintanace and enjoy your 7

 

rtec 2.1 is here for those with flooding issues i think you can alter fuel at start up im going to give them a call for full info on this product i hope this will help

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S4 TII Stage 2 Update


Stage 2.1 Update
The Rtek Stage 2.1 update is packed with features for S4 TII Rtek Stage 2 owners. Features include

increase fuel adjustment to +/-37.5%
add EGR as programmable RPM based switch output
add Variable Resistor as general input
expand Fuel Table to 14x14 (down to 0 rpm, down to -13psi)
add control of the startup fuel curve
Software ISC and Variable Resistor
MAP based timing mode (converts timing table from LOAD vs RPM to PSI vs RPM)
Secondary Transition Stumble Elimination
If you already have an Rtek7 Stage 2 ECU Upgrade for an S4 T2, you can update it to the Stage 2.1 by ordering on the right.

There are two ways to order your update.

Self install: $10
We send you a new EPROM chip. You have to be competent in removing and installing the chip from the ECU.

DTI Install: $15
Send us your ECU and we will install the chip for you.
Whats involved in the chip swap:

The chip is already socketed so there is no soldering involved. You just need to remove the old one and insert the new one (with the same orientation!).

FAILURE TO INSTALL THE CHIP PROPERLY WILL DAMAGE CHIP BEYOND REPAIR.

Here is an instructional video on how to swap the chip for a Stage 1.x ECU. Stage 2 ECUs are slightly different inside but the procedure is the same.



Shipping

If you choose the DTI Install option, t is your responsibility to ship the chip or ECU to us. When you purchase an update from this page, you are paying for shipping from us to you for either the chip or the ECU return. You are responsible for the cost of shipping the chip or ECU to us. It is highly recommended that you ship the chip/ ECU using a method that is trackable. We are not responsible for lost chips or ECUs.

Order: or Find a Dealer


Rtek7 Stage 2.1
Update

Self install
$10

DTI Install
$15

This product is only for customers that already have an S4 TII Rtek7 Stage 2.0 upgrade. Please order here if you do not have one already.

Select product/versionStg 2.1 Update Self InstallStg 2.1 Update DTI Install











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nice info. Keep em coming

 

Anyone Used An Rtec 2.1 With The Flooding Feature Yet...READ THROUGTH SOME OF THE POSTS THERES ALOT OF DIFFERANT WRITE UPS AND TECH HELP FROM DIFFERANT MEMBERS... SOME ARE GOOD AND SOME ARE SO SO ,THIS IS NOT A BATTLE GROUND ,ITS JUST TECNICAL HELP ,SOME WORK SOME DONT YOU BE THE JUDGE ...ALL POSTED HERE.......

 

I've been driving these things for 21 years (an 87 NA and an91 TII). New or tired engine, it happens when the engine isn't warmed up before shutting down, especially when it is started for a short time in the cold. I've always managed to fire it up again (usually I pull the fuel pump fuse for a while) and I haven't burned out a starter motor yet (10 second rule). I'm in the "warm it up, dummy" camp.

 

jtrain you are absolutly on the money they do need warming up ...its a shame the knew rx8s flood and they are brand knew ,my friend has one ,2 weeks after he purchased it he flooded ,i felt bad he had a knew car with 10 miles on it he brought it back and they put a knew stronger starter in it he has not had a problem since

 

They should warm up but they do not need to warm up unless you have a low comp engine. High comp engines don't need to warm up.

 

Ever since i put in my MSD i have not had any flooding problems!!!!

 

how did you wire your msd....was it as soon as you put it on you stopped flooding?....also what msd did you use ..this also may help newbie

 

put a switch on the fuel pump wire. its easy, i'm pretty sure its a blue wire (dont quote me on that) but it comes out of the fuel pump with a few more wires right in your trunk.

then, simply crank the car and then hit the switch no more than a second later.
then when u want to shut her down, hit the switch instead of the ignition. that releives the pressure in the gas lines.....so no drippy drippy from the injectors.

its just cheaper.....i've never even seen one of these rtec 2.1 things

 

thanks 1revin712488 we have a write up in this thread on how to do that ...its a band aid but anything helps...thanks again

 

i figured the idea was already posted....just wanted to make sure u knew that it can be done efficiently for cheap.....srry i'm lazy and didnt read.

 

anybody got a pic of the fuel pump kill switch. I want to put one in but i need some pics or wiring instructions directly from the fuel pump..

 

ill see if i can take a pic today

 

You should put the switch on the wire that supplies current to the relay coil, not the main wire to the fuel pump. The whole reason that there is a relay in the first place is so that a remote switch isn't connected to a high current wire.

 

read through all the post theres a write up a couple pages back in this thread

 

I used a 6 AL MSD and on their site it shows you how to wire it!

 

heres a pic of wiring for a msd 6al...very simple it when flooding occurs a lot of members has had good luck with these for fresh rebuilds including a couple buddys i know with 7s

 

My car has had flooding issues ever since I got it as an na convertible in 2001, I went through this write up and many others over the years trying to eliminate the problem, but eventually gave up and installed a fuel pump cut off switch. I've been using if for the last few years to start my car whenever is was warm. In 04' I converted to a TII engine and drive train but the flooding problem was still there after my turbo conversion, and still there after my second rebuild on my turbo engine.

The Rtek 7 version 2.1 cranking fuel map has COMPLETELY eliminated the flooding issue on my car. I took only about 10mins of adjustment as the car warmed up for me to get the cranking fuel map dialed in for all engine temperatures. I haven't had the car flood one time since, and I no longer have to push the gas pedal at all to start the car either!!!!!

The other features that the Rtek offers are sweet too. check them out, $125 for the rtek 1.7 is a steal $499 for the 2.1 is well worth the money as well.

Thanks again Rtek/Pocketlogger
check them out here www.pocketlogger.com

 

Well,

I've shown my face on this thread. I have a feeling every newbie FC owner ends up here at one time or another. I wasn't paying attention, enjoying the FC, and I suspect I flooded my engine and trying the simple stuff hasn't worked. I am going to the more advanced approach with my spark plugs out (and cleaning them). Barring that my next option is calling mazda and having it towed there cause I am not a mechanic.

I did however have a thought. Since the it is recommended that we change the oil anyway due to contamination, would draining the oil and replacing it help any?

Stupid question, but short of having a an experienced FC unflooder come to my place in Toronto and help me out, I feel pressed up against the wall and a little freaked out.

 

I realized that I misquoted the Rtek 2.1 price, it's $399 not 499. Sorry

 

There's no need to get bent out of shape over your car flooding, and you don't need an expert to help you un-flood it. What are the simple things you have already tried? You can PM if you'd like and I can guide you through the process.