put your method of fixing your flooding issue and your theory behind it this is a pain in the butt issue for our cars it needs to be stoped for new rx7 owners

 

I use a simple switch/relay combo on the fuel pump wire under the steering wheel by the cpu and interior fuse box. Run the switch somewhere hidden that way you can use it as an anti-theft device as well.

When ever the car won't start, just turn the fuel pump off with that switch and crank it over until it fires then flip the switch before it dies. Works like a charm.

 

I use that also works very well never had it not start.

 

its also nice to help prevent floods as well. Switch it off and wait for it to die, then turn the key to "Off". This is nice if its cold out and your car hasn't warmed up all the way.

 

I sent my injectors out to get cleaned or got new ones.. always fixed the flooding problem for me.

 

i know this is a novel concept, but back in the day, i had a new engine, and NO vacuum leaks, and the thing would start BETTER hot than cold

 

i adjusted my tps

 

yea I spent a few hundred bucks and had my injectors cleaned, new intake gaskets, and new vacuum lines. And found out my hot start was low compression!! damn I wish I would have done that first... that money could have went towards my rebuild

 

i took my thermostat out and bye bye hot start issues,weird but its truth

 

Check compression first. Low compression numbers contributes to hot start problems. Also check the FPR to see if it drips fuel when the vac hose is removed. If these things check ok, remove the upper intake, remove both fuel rails and use mechanic's wire to hold the injectors tightly to the rails, just like the FSM illustrates. With key on and engine off, jumper the fuel pump connector or cycle the key to build up fuel pressure. If an injector drips fuel constantly, replace it or have it cleaned and retest.

 

Rebuilt the engine. Is this a trick question?

 

remove ENG INJ. fuse, crank car for 30 seconds while depressing clutch and gas all the way down. put back fuse in. start car. make sure that the key is in the off position before and after taking out fuse or your tachometer wont work. ORRR sometimes, u can depress the clutch and gas pedal all the way.and hope that it starts

 

Stopped doing short moves - almost the only times my Rx7s or Rx-8 have flooded was when I did not run it until warm.

 

I had a batt problem so it'd flood (I didnt drive the 7 just started it every so often) so I pulled the efi fuse and kept turning it over while plugged into a power source (plenty of power) then put it back in after quite some time, wouldnt start.

I changed the plugs, put atf fluid into the bottom spark hole preppedup some new plugs, cleaned the wires/contacts, started fine.

When I cranked it without the plugs btw, fuel came out, now if I had the efi fuse out and cranked it shouldnt the gas go out the exhaust system? Anywaysalot of fuel came out so I came to the assumption it was REALLY flooded. =/

 

changing plugs helps definately, at least on my nonturbo it did

on my T2 it always had hot start problems on the stock ECU but the Rtek never seemed to

 

Sadly, mine just fixed itself...not complaining.

 

With my old engine, I used a relay in the hatch near the fuel pump connector which was activated by the power antenna wire which only has 12v+ when the key is in the ON position and engine turning, not the START position. This allowed the engine to start on the little residual fuel pressure in the lines without the fuel pump pressurizing the lines more the needed for a low comp engine.

Worked great for me. I didn't have to think about anything because it was all automatic. No Switches.

My hot start problems were from the ECU not energizing the FPR electronic solenoid so the fuel pressure would spike and flood the engine. I removed the solenoid and hooked the FPR up to the intake where it belongs and my hot start issues went away. Also my stalling and idle issues went away too.

 

i think i read some where about cutting the 3b wire for hotstart issues does anyone have any luck with that method and whats involed,that sounds intresting rotoman99 about the fpr do you have a write up on that procedure

 

3B goes to the starter switch. I suppose if someone told you this, they may be trying to tell you, not to start the car

as for a writeup, you don't need one. find the FPR solenoid, I don't know which one it is as I removed all mine years ago, and disconnect the vacuum line from it that leads to the FPR and connect it directly to the vacuum nipple on the front drivers side of the S5 UIM. If your standing on the drivers side of the car looking at the S5 intake mani, you will see on the left side of the UIM and small vacuum nipple. Hook the FPR there.

Infact, you have everything taken apart so just run a new line fom the FPR to that vacuum port or just do what I said above if you still are going to use the vacuum rack.

 

Most of these "fixes" are bandaids. They are fixing the symptom, but not the problem.

First and foremost, the car must be in good tune. Which means no 10 year old plugs and wires, TPS adjusted, and ECT reading properly.

Then, injectors must be in good shape. If they are unknown then have them professionally reconditioned (cleaned).

3rd, the engine must have good compression. If it has low compression it's not going to want to start.

 

so true. soooo true. getting my injectors cleaned next week and replacing spark plugs. BUT THAT DAMN VACUUM HOSE THATS LOOSE IS TICKING ME OFF! i dont even know where it goes!!! i looked at all the diagrams and it just does not exist. ['asdfkjaskfjsd'fkaskl'asfgksdfng


sorry im a lil frustrated by a lil hose.

 

Anubis, start a thread and give pics if you haven't already...

 

I've only had it happen once and it was from just starting the car and moving it then turning it off. came back three days later and was flooded. used the pull the pump fuse trick started right up.

 

Exactly. Excellent post. Jeeeeez, if everyone could just adopt this strategy, we could have far fewer flooding-related threads. Of all of the flooding problems I have fixed for people over the years, the root cause was either low compression or drippy injectors.

 

What if the actual issue is low compression? My old engine had 85psi on all faces. Flodded all the time so I did what I had to do to make it work. I did not want to remove it and rebuild it because I did not have the money and time like a lot of us.

Well a couple years later the engine blew and I pulled a rebuild from another car with 115PSI on all faces and stuck it in, guess what, bandaids where no longer needed. My injectors were cleaned, plugs were good, fuel filter was good, wires were good everything was good except for the compression.

Bandaids are needed if all else fails like what happend to me.