Wh1t3 C0m3t

intersting, thats what the guy i bought it off of said to do

dennis blackstone

yes im wondering about the rx8 they have the same problem and there not that old so maybe just maybe the ecu or the injectors are crap in these cars any rx8 owners with this problem....i know that there tsb tells them to go to a differant plug

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

There is nothing in common between the EFI system in the RX-8 and the one in the FC. Not a single component is even remotely close.

The RX-8 issues are primarily caused by software problems due to the constant tweaking Mazda has done on the code to correct problems.

dennis blackstone

thanks aaron for the info aaron what do recomend for brand knew injectors thats were ill start first my bac is good and working my compression is good on all sides timing is on filter changed now i have 1200 miles on the motor the hot start is getting better if i give it a little peddle at start up

Custard

i have had my 94 RX7 Fd for about 4 months now and think i may have flooded it for the first time....moved it last night to re-arrange parking..wouldnt start today..i also happened to install my new PFC and plug in my laptop to check out the datalogit too at the same time..it wouldnt start for love or money (battery probably hald dead too), so i didnt know what was the problem...my bet is, its flooded...im sure the ECU and the software has nothing to do with it.
does one have to take plugs out and clean..if left for a day or two, wont the excess fuel evaporate...excuse the noob question..im still learning...

HAILERS

e it a little peddle at start up*******************************

This might be a BAC problem when the engine is warmed up/hot. The BAC opens fully and stays there when the key is HELD to Start. Adds more air by doing so. I've a bac plug that lately has a tendency to come halfway off. Once it does that I know it because the idle falls to 500rpm. If I try to restart that car it's a bit of a problem unless I add pedal. If I put the back plug back on fully, there is NO problem starting.

Another trait of this half on/half off plug is that the engine will auto rev when I pull up to a stop sign. One contact or both are barely making contact. For a moment it makes no contact then as the engine revs makes full contact and on and on and on and on til I shove the plug back on fully. Please don't ask why I won't put the plug on in a more permanent manner. Once reinstalled it stays that way til it vibrates off. A dab of RTV....someday, someday, sometime off in the future.

This auto rev is similar to when a person installs the initial set coupler to set the idle. Once I get the idle where I want it, I pull the initial set coupler out and the engine will auto rev for usually four or five cycles til it stops auto reving and holds the 750rpm idle.

The metal clip is missing on my bac plug is why it vibrates off.

dennis blackstone

has anyone had there rx8 flood

NZConvertible

Buying a chip won't fix the underlying problem. Do a leak test on the injectors as per the FSM instructions. If they leak, take them back to who cleaned them and raise hell. You sure about compression?

I'm sure most people already know that. Like I said before, I was simply saying that it's wrong to say "the problem is at the ECU" because it usually isn't.

I wonder how many people people have made their flooding problems worse by removing the BAC valve? Since the airflow is considerably reduced and the fuelling is unchanged, flooding must be more likely if an engine's already susceptible to it.

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

You don't need new injectors. Just have the old ones serviced. Check the Yellow Pages for "injection" and then call around...

dennis blackstone

well first my compression was 65 then as the motor broke in it rose to 98 on all 3 sides with 1200miles on the motor now may be i was wrong but i think these injectors are 20 years old and i dont want to risk anything with this motor ill bite the bullet and buy knew ones and see the result ill post it...

coltboostin

iTrader: (1)

As mentioned a few times already-the MPI relay and switch mod accomplishes this without you leaving the drivers seat, and is 100% guaranteed to work.

I dont know why you guys are wasting your time trying anything else, besides what has been proven to fix the issue.

dennis blackstone

i have that mod im not being rude or anything but its not a real cure it helps yes but as hailers says there band aids but as i speak im ordering brand knew injectors from marren motorsports for my first test and give results ...i have fixed my bac ...compression good

NZConvertible

Have you tested them so see if they really are leaking? Or are you spending hundreds of dollars based on hope?

MPI relay?

AUGieDogie

iTrader: (4)

When I upgraded my injectors to 4x720s they where brand spanking new, I had EXACTLY the same starting problems that I had the day before.

dennis blackstone

yes i have done the leak test it leaks a little but i have a knew motor and these injectors are old and im not taking a chance at this point it may not fix the problem im just searching to help others what i eliminated from the puzzle in other words what worked and what did not because newbies need help to on these frustrating cars

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

Fix != bandaid.

RotaMan99

Compression in my old engine was the reason for flooding. I used an automatic bandaid then but don't need anything now that I have a 115psi compression motor

No BACV right now either. Its on and connected but the ECU needs repair. Injectors were cleaned by RCENG.

HAILERS

I've never seen one flood because I've never been near one. But I do remember when they first came out, I looked at a RX-8 forum and I read a number of FLOODING problems. I found that discouraging and started finding suspect, the rotary design or design team. One or the other.

Ever notice once and a while you find a thread where so and so went and bought a halftech EMC and spouts out loud how he has no flooding problem anymore? Well in my very humble opinion, that's due to being able to adjust the fuel flow during the start period. Less fuel being injected than when he had the stock ECU. Because the Stock ECU is not adjustable and it's going to inject just as much fuel during start as it will a hundred thousand miles later. And that's why on occasion I post the Starting Fuel Chart from the Training manual so others will have a clue as to how fuel is injected during START. It also explains how if you pull the Start signal off the ECU, the amount of fuel delivered during Start will be much smaller bv the fuel being determined by the AFM instead of the Start Fuel Map in the ECU.

Digital Tuning has caught on to have their RTEK deliver less fuel during Start. Operator adjustable. I do not have that feature on mine, so don't ask too much about the RTEK2.1 Version.

And I try to never miss the opportunity to say, FUEL CUT SWITCHES AND PULLING THE EGI FUSE SUCKS and is detrimental to your engine. Just my humble opinion. Nothing more nor less.

http://www.rx8club.com/forumdisplay.php?f=95

koukifc3s

iTrader: (3)

Well cleaning my injectors did not help, the car is still hard to start when hot 2-5 hours after it's been driven. Starts in the morning without a problem.

Compression is 100psi on both rotors. I had the fuel injectors cleaned at RC Engineering. I just cleaned my BAC and bought new spark plugs and wires. Coolant and oil seals seem good too.

Any idea on what to do next?

If I hold the gas pedal down it will start everytime.

dennis blackstone

hailers i think your point is valid that as the car gets older it still injects a lot of fuel that makes sense...cant wait for rtec 2.1 my compression numbers are getting higher now my hotstarts are getting better

dennis blackstone

hailers thanks for the info from the rx8 forum it looks like they have it worse than us on a knew car ...heres a snipit from there forum (My dealer has put in the new starter motor fix and has given me the new plug kit too. My car always starts now, the speed of the starter is much higher than before. I believe my problem is fixed now. I had one of the early production models with the weak battery, starter and plugs. They were all replaced and now I am happy with the starting issue. The total lack of power and poor mileage is still an issue. In California with gas at 3.80 per gallon it really hurts. If I keep the revs low and shift short I can squeeze out 17 mpg in mixed driving conditions. Only problem is that little old ladies in Camrays can beat me off the line! oh well!!! I am currently at 50,000 miles and the warrenty is now gone! Wish us all luck! )

HAILERS

Try this. Drive the car til it gets hot. Stop and turn it off. Remove pin 1C from the ECU plug. Go drive the car for the rest of the day. Turn it off and back on during the day and see if there is any difference in starting the car when it's warmed up. DO NOT hold the pedal to the floor. Try a somewhat normal start without doing that pedal down thing. If you find it won't start any better, then go back to putting the pedal to the floor and reinsert the wire in pin 1C. That pin only gets voltage during START. So be sure to put some tape on it while it's out of its socket.

This cost you not a damn thing to do it. And can be undone in a heartbeat.

Let's pretend we're in WonderLand and the process above made the thing start better when hot. Try starting it the next morning with the wire still out of pin 1C and the engine cold.

It SHOULD be a somewhat difficult start. If it takes too much time to start, then reinsert the wire in pin 1C and it should now start fine when cold.

I assumed you have a series FIVE and not series FOUR. It would be a different pin on a series four.

dennis blackstone

is the pin 3b on s4

HAILERS

3B on the small plug of a series four. A black/blue wire. Series four.

Series five........it's the wire I described in my last post.

koukifc3s

iTrader: (3)

Thanks Ill try that Hailers but I get the impression that fuel still finds its way into my engine.

When I cleaned my injectors I broke the clip of one of the primary and one of the 2ndary. I checked the 2ndary and the plug is still connected but I cannot see the primary one unless I take out the intake.

Im gonna buy 2 new clips from rx7.com and replace them next week.
Could a disconnected primary cause my starting problem?

The car has been sitting for about an hour and a half and I took out my trailing plugs to see if they were wet.

Nope both were dry but they look like this:



Now the plugs are only 400 miles old. Should they look like this?

Tried to start the car and it didn't start in the crank. Second one started it.