how long will t last on 60 psi compression
01-28-10, 09:19 AM
#26
Engine, Not Motor
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And was the engine warm?
Seriously, ignore the numbers for a minute.
Does the engine start easily hot or cold?
Does it idle well?
Does it make good power?
If the answer to all three of those are "yes", then you are fine.
Now, if the engine is exhibiting signs of low compression (any of the above three answered as a "no") and is also smoking, polluting the fuel with oil, then you should start considering what to do.
It pays to rebuild it before it blows because then you probably won't be looking for a housing and rotor as well. But then again, there may be no issues with this engine other then an unreliable compression test.
Seriously, ignore the numbers for a minute.
Does the engine start easily hot or cold?
Does it idle well?
Does it make good power?
If the answer to all three of those are "yes", then you are fine.
Now, if the engine is exhibiting signs of low compression (any of the above three answered as a "no") and is also smoking, polluting the fuel with oil, then you should start considering what to do.
It pays to rebuild it before it blows because then you probably won't be looking for a housing and rotor as well. But then again, there may be no issues with this engine other then an unreliable compression test.
01-28-10, 12:28 PM
#27
boosted fc
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it starts easily hot or cold
it does not idle well bounces from 100 to 800, no its not a vacume leek
power i guess i think it should pull arde than it does but it seems slow as hell compared to my old turbo fc
it does not idle well bounces from 100 to 800, no its not a vacume leek
power i guess i think it should pull arde than it does but it seems slow as hell compared to my old turbo fc
01-28-10, 03:13 PM
#28
why do noobs say this? low compression does not mean an engine is going to blow up, it simply means your housings and seals are probably worn and it will just continue to become more difficult to start as compression gets lower.
you can't. there is no such thing as a "budget rebuild" on an engine that has that low of compression and worn apex seals. i do suspect you used the gauge wrong though since it would be near impossible to start an engine reliably that only has 60PSI of compression.
you can't. there is no such thing as a "budget rebuild" on an engine that has that low of compression and worn apex seals. i do suspect you used the gauge wrong though since it would be near impossible to start an engine reliably that only has 60PSI of compression.
http://www.rotaryresurrection.com/2n...ion_check.html
Straight from their site "below 90 could blow at any moment"
Im not a noob nor an expert.
01-28-10, 06:15 PM
#29
Senior Member
Idle may have to do with something else. If it starts easy, hot or cold and never floods then yor fine.
I drove my FC that had same compression for 2 years and to be honest, it was the most reliable car i had ever owned. Nothing broke on it, never had to do anything. Just gas, and maintenance
I had an s4, and as I was selling it, the cotter pin for the OMP rod decided to go mia. About a week later my rear rotor just folded the seals over. (thanks mazda for those awesome 3 piece seals... jerks :P)
motor had 212,000KM.
If it is a stock motor, i would highly recommend rebuilding it with 2 piece seals. The 3 piece seals are junk and when they were down can fold over -very- easily.
Try and find a used motor or long block (keg) in the meantime. As a precaution. And as aaron said, its cheaper to rebuild a running motor then a blown one
streetport is a must if you rebuild! :O
I drove my FC that had same compression for 2 years and to be honest, it was the most reliable car i had ever owned. Nothing broke on it, never had to do anything. Just gas, and maintenance
I had an s4, and as I was selling it, the cotter pin for the OMP rod decided to go mia. About a week later my rear rotor just folded the seals over. (thanks mazda for those awesome 3 piece seals... jerks :P)
motor had 212,000KM.
If it is a stock motor, i would highly recommend rebuilding it with 2 piece seals. The 3 piece seals are junk and when they were down can fold over -very- easily.
Try and find a used motor or long block (keg) in the meantime. As a precaution. And as aaron said, its cheaper to rebuild a running motor then a blown one
streetport is a must if you rebuild! :O
01-28-10, 06:30 PM
#30
boosted fc
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thanks for the info all my other engines just blew with out warning and i just got nervous about it sold all my other cars so i can haveit quiting on me yet
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