just out of curiosity how long should a rebuild last

 

Cartmill asks, "Which one?"


Seriously, a proper rebuild should last as long as anything new from the factory. You get what you pay for and care and feeding goes a long way.

 

Pineapple Racing 5 Year Warrenty Rebuild: <5,000 miles before it started blowing coolant.

 

I had my N/A motor rebuilt about 9 Years ago and it is still running strong. It has not been driven everyday so I have only put about 30,000 miles on the rebuild.

The rebuild included. New Rotors (89), Resurfaced steel housings and Used Rotor housings. Turbo Oil pressure regulator, 3mm Apex Seals, enlarged oil passage on main bearings and full ballance on all moving parts (including flywheel and pressureplate).

Rebuild was performed by Import Service Center in Winter Haven Florida, just outside Orlando.

BTW, the original engine had 276,000 miles on it when it was rebuilt.

 

That kinda sucks.

 

My rebuild is over 30k miles of me personally driving it daily.

 

Where'd you get it done?

 

I have something close to 20k miles on my rebuild, still running strong. I did it myself, used housings.

-=Russ=-

 

I'm a bit past 33k on my rebuilt TII block
Daily Driven over 70 miles a day

dynoed @ 180hp and 182 tq @rw

 

The previous owner had it done by a shop in corpus christi, texas.

 

40k and still going strong.

 

1,700 miles with no boost and never revving over 5,000
i will never have that guy rebild anything for me again
now KARACK is going to do my rebuilds i have seen his rebuilds run and for a much better price

 

One of mine lasted 30k, leaking oil front and rear, that is a 12a. My 13bt, well, it lasted 100 miles.... Both engines bought from the same company.

The 13bt is at a different shop now being torn down, waiting to hear why it blew.

 

you ***

yeah, i had a rebuild last for 6 months (5000 miles) before detonation, then i blew two rebuilds in 2 months due to detonation. no abnormal wear, i put them all together right. Nothing was out of spec, no problem with sideseal clearancing, no endplay problems, no spun bearings, just detonation because i'm a douchebag

SO, i'm doing everything up right this time and this weekend will be my last rebuild (my credit says so) and i finally got a new fuel pump, a 3bar map sensor, and a smaller wastegate spring

 

Yeah that about sums it up. Mines been going strong for 5 years now on a rebuild from RotorSports Racing. I think the key is have it done right and then do what you're suppose to do for maintenence.

 

The key things are....

Make sure oil pressure is going to be there
Make sure cooling is going to be there....
And MAKE damn sure your AFR's are conservative and constant!

 

nothing makes you cry like popping a motor just after break in... do not take your car to motorsport dynamics in sacramento either, i have seen 2 people blow motors from their shop just after recieving them back from this shop..



my personal rebuild has close to 20k on it now over a period of 9 months and i still have plans on putting it up near the 350RWHP mark and be my DD still, as soon as i can find the time that is! the more mods you do, the shorter the lifespan of the motor will be.

 

hm.... Karack, i think my motor is rebuilt at motorsoprt dynamics in Sac.... 50000 now in it and still running strong (last time i checked)

i guess i got lucky

 

they didn't build his engine but they did try to tune it.

also check the pics of snub disphenoid's supercharger project that went to pieces after he sunk a ton of money into it, all after one of their ex techs had been working on tuning his car.

imo, i don't think they know very much about tuning rotaries. it doesn't take much to rebuild one if one can follow instructions but if you try to tune a rotary to piston engine techniques it won't last long if at all after the tuning process is done.


this all after i spent countless hours working on his car so i have a bit of distaste in my mouth as well.

 

67k on my 1990 GXL, previous owner had it rebuilt by Mazda

 

As a first time rebuilder, I got 3k miles (the first time) because I used 140k mile used housings and a suspect rotor (one corner seal was a TIGHT fit). Tore it down after getting 90/70 compression (front/rear).

Rebuilt a second time using 60k mile housing and higher compression 9:4:1 N/A rotors and re-using the same seals as on the previous rebuild (probably wasn't a great idea, due to the Apex seals 'forming' to the "bad" 140k mile previously used housings).

I eventually blew the motor (cracked an apex seal) after getting too boost happy with the hybrid turbo, N/A rotors and lack of tuning.

I'm on the third and "real" rebuild this time... Going back to the 8:5 rotors and upgrading to the R-tek 1.7 chip, FMIC etc... Should be done by the end of the week.

 

50K miles on my Mazda reman..........and running strong *knock on wood*

 

24k on a rebuild from alamo rotary. To be fair, it was my fault it blew. Somthing fell in the intake when I had it off getting the injectors cleaned. The front rotor only had 90 at the time, it turns out. The housings were from an engine of unknown milage and condition ( at least to me). I short, I had been dicked around by protech in austin for 4 months and just wanted a running engine.

 

ive had my car for a year and im about to pull the engine for a 3rd time. once when the original engine blew a freeze plug, got a rebuld , and installed the engine with a oil cooler line pinch and stavred the engine of oil (my fault), now the front cover o-ring is believed to be shot. im pissed and im never paying anyone again to do my rebuilds.

 

i have bout 70k miles on rotary performance and i was running NO oil for about 10 miles.....yeah bad i know. the car has 145k, and still pulls like a mule. no rust, almost everything on the inside of engine is clean and new. planning for paint and rebuild this spring ( im up at edinboro university of PA right now)