How To: Install a fuel pump kill switch
03-04-12, 09:34 AM
#27
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My buddy did his like this, on the inside of the shift boot. I loved that one lol. I was also thinking about doing the honda thing where one would have to turn on the left or right turn signal.
08-08-13, 12:48 AM
#31
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I am going to do this as soon as i finish rebuilding/testing/fixing my engine 
I don't have a fuse on my 12a and I would LOVE to have a secure antitheft device or 2 in the car so many people I have seen eyeballing her
I don't have a fuse on my 12a and I would LOVE to have a secure antitheft device or 2 in the car so many people I have seen eyeballing her
01-25-14, 07:09 PM
#33
I'm over thinking this… are you connecting the extended wires that you prepare to the cut wires that plug into the relay switch itself or the excess wires?I'm probably the only person not getting it right
01-25-14, 09:43 PM
#34
MECP Certified Installer
I hate to be "that guy" but I am very against doing things like this.
Why not fix the problem rather than bandaide it. It makes no sense whatsoever. If you are bandaide fixing an issue, you are just ignoring the primary cause which would typically be leaky injectors or a rebuilt. Why **** with a switch and having to do all these magic tricks to something that should just work when you put the key in the ignition?
On the security side of things, the industry says NO.
What if you are cruising down the highway and the engine dies because of this, you modulate the brakes and lose booster vacuum? Any modified connection to the fuel pump or ignition can lead to catastrophic circumstances and is never recommended. Starter kill is the way to go.
The last paragraph is just for anyone who may search this thread and decide it is a good idea for security and it is not.
Why not fix the problem rather than bandaide it. It makes no sense whatsoever. If you are bandaide fixing an issue, you are just ignoring the primary cause which would typically be leaky injectors or a rebuilt. Why **** with a switch and having to do all these magic tricks to something that should just work when you put the key in the ignition?
On the security side of things, the industry says NO.
What if you are cruising down the highway and the engine dies because of this, you modulate the brakes and lose booster vacuum? Any modified connection to the fuel pump or ignition can lead to catastrophic circumstances and is never recommended. Starter kill is the way to go.
The last paragraph is just for anyone who may search this thread and decide it is a good idea for security and it is not.
01-27-14, 10:57 AM
#35
Senior Member
I hate to be "that guy" but I am very against doing things like this.
On the security side of things, the industry says NO.
What if you are cruising down the highway and the engine dies because of this, you modulate the brakes and lose booster vacuum? Any modified connection to the fuel pump or ignition can lead to catastrophic circumstances and is never recommended. Starter kill is the way to go.
On the security side of things, the industry says NO.
What if you are cruising down the highway and the engine dies because of this, you modulate the brakes and lose booster vacuum? Any modified connection to the fuel pump or ignition can lead to catastrophic circumstances and is never recommended. Starter kill is the way to go.
06-07-15, 11:48 PM
#36
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I hate to be "that guy" but I am very against doing things like this.
Why not fix the problem rather than bandaide it. It makes no sense whatsoever. If you are bandaide fixing an issue, you are just ignoring the primary cause which would typically be leaky injectors or a rebuilt. Why **** with a switch and having to do all these magic tricks to something that should just work when you put the key in the ignition?
On the security side of things, the industry says NO.
What if you are cruising down the highway and the engine dies because of this, you modulate the brakes and lose booster vacuum? Any modified connection to the fuel pump or ignition can lead to catastrophic circumstances and is never recommended. Starter kill is the way to go.
The last paragraph is just for anyone who may search this thread and decide it is a good idea for security and it is not.
Why not fix the problem rather than bandaide it. It makes no sense whatsoever. If you are bandaide fixing an issue, you are just ignoring the primary cause which would typically be leaky injectors or a rebuilt. Why **** with a switch and having to do all these magic tricks to something that should just work when you put the key in the ignition?
On the security side of things, the industry says NO.
What if you are cruising down the highway and the engine dies because of this, you modulate the brakes and lose booster vacuum? Any modified connection to the fuel pump or ignition can lead to catastrophic circumstances and is never recommended. Starter kill is the way to go.
The last paragraph is just for anyone who may search this thread and decide it is a good idea for security and it is not.
06-08-15, 12:41 AM
#37
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When I had my old N/A I just clipped the wire between the EGI fuse before the fuse block and ran a switch to the dash.
06-08-15, 11:36 AM
#39
MECP Certified Installer
Replacing the injectors isn't that expensive.
In my industry, doing fuel cut, ignition cut is so risky, nobody will do it. I most certainly would never do it.
The cost of getting sued is too high.
In my industry, doing fuel cut, ignition cut is so risky, nobody will do it. I most certainly would never do it.
The cost of getting sued is too high.
Last edited by jjwalker; 06-08-15 at 11:39 AM.
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