interceptor1985

Actually my question is about the fuel fittings for the fuel lines Banzai wasn't exactly helpful in there response to my question...At the moment the TII is completely stock (with a MASSIVE fuel leak)<--Of which led to just buying all the aftermarket goodies..
Here is the parts I have waiting to be installed
Banzai 13B-T FC Secondary Fuel Rail with spacers
Banzai 13B Primary Fuel Rail with spacers
Banzai Walbro 255 LPH High Pressure Fuel Pump
Banzai Siemens 850cc Fuel Injector 4 new ones
Banzai Aeromotive A1000-6 Fuel Pressure Regulator
HKS FCD
Corksport turbo back exhaust

I don't have the 3/8 NPT fittings or fuel lines as I'm not sure which ones I need. any suggestions is GREATLY appreciated.

FirstRotaryExp

iTrader: (3)

Since you are replacing what appears to be everything, why does your list lack some way to control all the extra fuel those 850CC injectors are going to dump into the intake (stock for any T2 is 550cc's)? Also do you have a mechanical or electrical gauge by which to set the fuel pressure?

But to answer your initial questions, you will have to trial and error it all depending on where you mount the FPR and how you want to ultimately run the fuel lines, as how you want to route the stainless (assumably since you didnt mention what type of fuel line you want to use) lines through the enginebay to the fuel rails.

But typically you will need at least two 90 degree bend fittings to link the primary and secondary rails, another 90 to connect the primary rail to the incoming fuel line, and maybe another 90 for the secondary to connect to the return line. Then the fittings required for the FPR is anyones guess as that depends on where you mount it.

These are suggestions and require you to figure out where you are mounting the FPR and how you are going to route the fuel lines going to the rails ad then back to through the regulator and back to the return hardline.

Banzai-Racing

iTrader: (11)

You wanted me to tell you exactly which fittings & lines you needed, I told you "The fittings depend on where you plan on locating everything and which size line you plan to run. I really can’t tell you what fittings you need, every system is different based off the specific car."

How much more "helpful" do you want me to be? If you do not know what you are doing then I suggest that you take your car to someone that does.

88rx7gxlturbo

iTrader: (2)

I agree.

OP, you sound like you went a little overboard on buying parts for a stock car......

dwb87

iTrader: (22)

You're definitely going to need something to control the air/fuel. Hopefully you've got some more money... because you have more of a project than you thought. Which is not always a bad thing. As long as you take the right precautions and do nothing half-assed, you'll be alright. ****, you might as well buy yourself a different turbo set-up and FMIC if you're going to have to go standalone. Then get it tuned... You may see 250-300hp+ depending on the set-up. Good luck with your project!

interceptor1985

FirstRotaryExp...Thank you.
dwb87...turbo upgrades are in the works, and we're taking it slow(at least with installing everything, lol)
Banzai "taking the car to someone else" ain't gonna happen that is why I ask these questions. We do 100% of our own work in this household and then some... if I'm overlooking key parts then just say so. I get what your saying about the fittings but that doesn't seem like a big deal if I can't even control the fuel like was just made obvious to me.

How about...
APEXi AFC-NEO
AutoMeter Ultra Lite II Fuel Pressure Gauge 4963
or if that's not good enough to control all that fuel
APEXi Power FC Harness Adapter
APEXi Power FC with OLED Commander
Any more parts other then the fittings and lines I may need to get this stuff installed correctly?

SirCygnus

iTrader: (1)

sometimes simple things elude us guys. as someone who started out from the bottom, i had to figure out a lot and ask a lot of questions. sometimes those tend to be so simple that its an annoyance to most people. lets lend a little bit of our days and spend 1 minute to helping the dude. sheesh

hopefully this can help. it may not be EXACTLY the right thing you need as the adaptors may be wrong, but this should give you a visual representation of what you need to do.

the fuel rails should have a standard input like AN or something.

FirstRotaryExp

iTrader: (3)

You can't really go wrong with the Power FC and its control dock.
Though I would recommend a mechanical (fluid filled if you can) FP gauge to mount ON the regulator (should also need a small 90* fitting so the small gauge can be mounted in a visual range). This insures you can set the regulator (with the pump running via the check connector) to the proper pressure without running the motor or running back and forth between engine bay and drivers seat. Aeromotive sells a gauge that mounts handily to all of its FPRs, SKU# 15633 on their website: 0-100psi gauge (dry, but wasnt a problem when I mounted my fpr and the gauge inside the bay of my Conquest) cost is about $25, plus whatever a fitting runs.

Really its 'simple' but it takes some careful planning (some measuring even) so you dont buy fittings you may not need or use. Banzai is right when he says every application is custom regardless if they all go to the same cars. It ALL depends on fuel line sizing (which then determines fitting sizing), what kind of fuel lines (stainless braided, nylon braided, push-loc) will determine what fittings you then have to buy (stainless braided and nylong braided use the same fittings, but pushlock uses different fittings). Most, if not all, of the fittings and lines can be ordered from summitracing or jegs (looked through my jegs catalog to check the styles of lines just now). And another option you have is the colors of the fittings themselves (red/blue, red/black, polished, black/polished, black, blue, polished, and i think ive even seen some in black/gold). All of these choices affect the pocket book, but its all preferances in how you want it to look.

I dont envy you in this endevour, I spent a couple hundred on my 'small' fuel setup on my Conquest, though it looked great, ad when I finally get around to getting my own FC off the ground I plan on AN fittings and braided hosing all around as well. But good luck and take your time, its well worth it in the end.

interceptor1985

That's perfect!
Though the fittings are 3/8 NPT so I think I should be using 3/8's fuel hose as well, with the APEXi AFC-NEO or the APEXi Power FC....I wouldn't need the FCD anymore then would I?

along with a turbo upgrade its also getting rebuilt, possibly with a bridgeport if that makes any difference to the parts I should get now.

FirstRotaryExp

iTrader: (3)

The neo is pretty much fuel control only so you would still need the FCD, the Power FC replaces the stock ecu entirely, bypassing the need for the FCD, but will need tuned.

Honestly what determines what parts you 'need/want' is how you are going to use the car after the work is done. If you plan on driving it around often, then the 850 primaries will make the car run funny at idle, great for power up top, not so great down low (Case in point, guy I know that lives near me made 460+ RWHP with a gt35r, 550 primaries, 1600 secondaries, a power fc, and and old school HKS fmic setup, his engine was mildly streetported and was drivable around town while still running well on boost).

If you bridgeport the motor, you will gain the very noticable 'brap brap brap' everyone craves, but its not a friendly port for longevity/drivability. Its more for power than anything. Just have to look at what you want to make power wise and see what others have done to get there/beyond.

magus2222

iTrader: (22)

if youre going to do an aftermarket fuel system, please use AN fittings. they are super easy to get, kinda costly, but if done right, youll never have another fuel leak ever.

Lloyd

AGreen

iTrader: (11)

I'm pretty sure that -6AN is 3/8". You'll need 4x 3/8" to -6AN adapters, and many feet of 3/8" braided steel hose (or -6AN, depending on how it's sold)

Found it in a google search on a Honda forum.
http://www.honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=1443264

Also, that drawing shows the fuel rails in parallel. You can do it like stock with them in series if that's how your FPR is set up. I'm not too familiar with the aeromotive units.

SirCygnus

iTrader: (1)

you dont need a AFC with a POWER FC.

a power FC is a stand alone computer. it gets rid of the stock computer. the AFC and fuel cut are used in conjunction with the stock computer only.

dwb87

iTrader: (22)

Not to veer from the original post... But how much boost was this guy running??

interceptor1985

Ok for now till after the turbo and engine rebuild can I use the stock injectors? the new ones are really jumping ahead on the turbo build..lol I just talked with my cousin and he really wants the AEM stand alone+ dyno tune but wants to hold off on buying them. I guess his goal at the moment is to replace the faulty oem stuff with aftermarket for a 100% leak free solution with room to grow.

FirstRotaryExp

iTrader: (3)

IIRC he was running 21psi and tuned conservatively. Honestly I would be quite happy with 400hp in a sub 3k lb chassis, more than enough to get me into trouble.

Back on topic:

Yes you can re-use the stock injectors (with the FCD) if you intend to not up the boost too much. But if you have all the fuel parts anyway, might as well get the fittigs and lines and do it now while you have everything apart.

Although i'm not sure what the banzai rails look like, but hopefully Banzai can answer if stockers work with his rails (im assuming the spacers are for the plausibly taller aftermarket injectors).

Banzai-Racing

iTrader: (11)

The rails are designed for 14mm o-ring American injectors, the 11mm stock injectors will not work.

As far as the other topic in this thread, our 91 vert makes 451rwhp @ 15psi on a GT35R http://www.banzai-racing.com/br_projects_vert_pg5.htm

interceptor1985

Mkay from what I'm understanding is that in order to use the 850cc Fuel Injector's I will need a controller, The cost of four 14mm injector's is about the cost of the APEXi AFC-NEO, since that is just a air/fuel controller I still should use the Fuel Cut Defencer. So far the cheapest Delphi Rochester 550cc with the 14mm O ring size is $79.82 not including shipping from Down Undah.... My question is would the AFC-NEO and the gauge allow me to use what I got? (not counting the fitting and lines.)

interceptor1985

here is the injectors I found, Just wanting to check to see if these would work before we pull the trigger on em.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...=STRK:MEWAX:IT

interceptor1985

Bump please, I really have to figure this stuff out, I'd hate to spend money on something so expensive just to find out we have zero use for it. here is the link again...
"GENUINE DELPHI ROCHESTER FUEL INJECTORS 550cc FJ10475"
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...d=248047685426
Item number: 370517411202

FirstRotaryExp

iTrader: (3)

its really boiling down to what you are going to spend. Either buy the neo which will at least be able to control the fuel (to a point, but you'd still need a wideband to do any good tuning).

Let me ask you this: What was wrong with the STOCK setup? Where was the leak coming from? In all honesty, I would 'shelve' the parts already bought and continue to chip away at the setup until its complete. Until then I would fix the stock system, which could mean new rubber fuel line from any auto store (cheap in relative cost compared to braided hosing), new copper crush washers for the banjo fittings, new injector O-rings (still available from mazda and mazdatrix), either replace the pulsation dampener (where i'm guessing the leak originated) with a good non-leaking unit (which will leak eventually anyway) or replace the PD with a banjo bolt (I know of someone who sells banjo's specifically for this purpose but i'm not allowed to publicly mention whom here). Not many other spots the fuel could leak from aside from a bad rail (which as I re-read this is for a S5...get a set of S4 rails/fittings if you want to eliminate the PD).

And to answer the final question: They look like they would work, might have to replace injector clips as they appear to be the square plugs (EV1 style as noted in auction) and S5 cars went to an oval plug IIRC.

interceptor1985

The stock setup was dumping fuel after we had her tore down three times with brand new high pressure fuel line so I know its not that, I can try again in case my cousin overlooked his injector o rings, if the o rings are bad would that allow for it to spray against the firewall and over the turbo?
I'm all for shelving the speed parts if it turns out to be the o rings but I'm just doing what he tells me since he is still in Iraq. Right now its pouring down rain so I can give it another look today but after it clears I'm finishing installing the Koyo N-Flo then I'll poke around the fuel some more...

Which by the way the Koyo N-Flo is a Beautiful radiator, extremely well built, well worth it!

FirstRotaryExp

iTrader: (3)

wow thats.... yeah either rails have cracks in them, the crush washers for the banjo bolts were fragged, or injector O-rings.

interceptor1985

I didn't forget about this thread, I had to stop what I was doing for a lil bit to pull apart another car, Also had to find some brackets for the other rx7...so many things to do and one of me...lol