jono20

so I bought a timing light, have it hooked to power and to L1.

now what? I know I need to adjust the CAS somehow, but I dont know how. which two screws do I adjust? how do I align the marks on the pully? what do I align them to. is there a write up on it somewhere :P !??!

thanks guys

88t2romad

you "pivot" the cas within the alloted space.

HAILERS

You do it just like the free online fsm says. Pictures there also. OR a Haynes manual at the auto store.

88t2romad

but that would make too much sense

jono20

thansk I checked there first like I always do. I tried to pivot it but it wouldnt move, thats why I was wondering if I was doing somethign worng. Ill jsut bang on it for awhile!

ddub

If all else fails, restab the CAS, if you do it properly it should be really close if not right on (usually it'll move a little when putting it back in due to the gear lining up, but it'll be close).

jono20

restab?

ddub

Unpluge/unbolt the CAS, pull it all the way out of the front cover, line the small dimple up with the correct mark, take the black cap off the top of the CAS, hold the gear in place, put the CAS back in to the front cover (the gear will most likely want to move a little in some direction, that's okay, it'll get you close), bolt it back down, plug it back in, check timing.

jono20

Ive got no marks on my first pulley wheel. ive looked closely on each wall, everywher I can see. there is no yellow and no red mark. aswell, I cant rotate my CAS. im wrenching as hard as I can the thing doesnt turn. does the WHOLE top pod thing turn like I think its supposed to? ie.. you dont have to take the black lid off. you jsut turn the thing that holds in that little gear and stuff?

ddub

Oh yah I forgot to mention in the stabbing procedure up there that you have to align the yellow mark with the timing pin on the front cover, THEN stab the CAS. Sorry about that.

Anyways, even if you don't have a red or yellow mark you should still have the 2 notches somewhere on the pulley. If you can't see them, try cleaning your pulley/rotating it until you find the 2 notches, those are your timing marks.

Stupid question, but you did remember to loosen the 10mm nut before trying to turn the CAS, right? In regards to how you said you can't move it. Yes the whole "pod" should move.

Beep777

The paint marks on the pulley may be faded. You will find tiny notches on the pulley if you turn it all the way around. Get it to the top and paint the notches with a little brush of touch up paint.

I am not sure if the guy who told you to restab said that you also have to align the left most mark (if you are in front looking at the car) with the stationary timing pin, and then put in the CAS with the peg aligned with the mark on the rotating gear.

Also don't forget to ground the single green connector by the battery.

Again, get a Haynes manual. It will pay for itself in no time. It has nice pics that show what we are trying to say.

Brian

jono20

i know what your trying to say.

im looking for these nocthes on the wall of the pulley closest to the rotor casing right?

and yeah I loosed the bolt ddub. I jsut cant move the thing., I was wrenchig on it as hard as I could.

jono20

ok so ive found them. they look like theyre fairly close to lining up with the little pin that comes out right at the top of the pulley. how close should they be?


would it be the timing that is making me run so rich? or could that be something else

jono20

k so i set my timing to the best of my abilities, but the thermosensor is still messed I believe. anyways, as another problem...

im idleing well now... in neutral, but when I go into first or reverse it loses power and stalls sometimes. what does that mean..?

RETed

Uh, why are you trying to adjust ignition timing?
Was the CAS pulled out for some reason?

Unless the CAS was removed, you only need to *verify* that ignition timing is within spec; you should *not* be removing the CAS!

Fire the timing gun...
Look straight down on the pin.
The right-hand "notch" should be directly under it.
If the notch is not directly under the pin, then you need to adjust it to within spec.

If the CAS is stuck, the o-ring might've gotten frozen.
You can try and carefully pry under the CAS to see if it'll loosen.
Shooting some lubricant (i.e. WD-40, Liquid Wrench, P'Blaster) under the CAS body might help in this case.

Note, you should be doing this with the engine fully warmed up and within idle spec.
Idle spec is 750RPM + or - 50RPM.
If the engine is too cold, or the idle is not within that range, the ignition timing should not be adjusted against the notch(es).


-Ted

jono20

I wasnt removing it, jsut pivoting it.

anyone hav any info on me losing power when I go into gear?

wes_c

Im having the same problem. I can move my CAS CCW and the car will start better but has less power. Will even die when I put it in gear if I turn it too far. If I rotate the CAS CW, I get more power but it doesnt start as well.