how hard is it to get 400hp?
#1
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how hard is it to get 400hp?
i want to achieve 400hp. Whats the fastest, cheapest, most reliable way? Should i keep the t 11 and streetport it, or get a jdm t 11 and street port it? Can the stock tranny hold up to it? if not what kinda upgrades? And diff. what kinda upgrades should i get it hold 400hp? what kinda apex seals should i get? and what kinda turbo? plus should i streetport it or bridgeport it? i heard bridge is alot less relable and told i could still get 400hp with street, is this true? Thanks..
#3
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cheap + fast =/= reliable
if you want 400hp, your going to need to do it carefully, and make sure u dont just throw cheap parts in there. Never be cheap, if u cheap out on parts now more thinsg will go wrong later, and in the long run u will end up spending more money..
for 400HP u can street port a tII engine, upgrade the whole fuelsystem, for the turbo you can go two ways, get a bigger single turbo, or send ur stock turbo off to BNR and get a stage 3, stage 3 should get u near 400hp, check the BNR section for more information for that..
You will also need to upgrade ur ECU. you can send it off to rTek to get chipped, or get a piggyback sAFC but most of the pros around here will tell u to go fully standalone (Wolf 3d, haltech etc..)
if you want 400hp, your going to need to do it carefully, and make sure u dont just throw cheap parts in there. Never be cheap, if u cheap out on parts now more thinsg will go wrong later, and in the long run u will end up spending more money..
for 400HP u can street port a tII engine, upgrade the whole fuelsystem, for the turbo you can go two ways, get a bigger single turbo, or send ur stock turbo off to BNR and get a stage 3, stage 3 should get u near 400hp, check the BNR section for more information for that..
You will also need to upgrade ur ECU. you can send it off to rTek to get chipped, or get a piggyback sAFC but most of the pros around here will tell u to go fully standalone (Wolf 3d, haltech etc..)
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Stock tranny and diff will hold it just fine but you'll wanna up the clutch
+1 on being too frugal... you dont wanna make 400 WHP on 1 run then blow it. Its all an insane line of components...
rebuilt street: port you gotta spend a good penny...then you'll want a bigger turbo but you cant do that safely w/o more fuel, you cant add more fuel w/o tuning, so on and so forth.... look to spend on good quality stuff
+1 on being too frugal... you dont wanna make 400 WHP on 1 run then blow it. Its all an insane line of components...
rebuilt street: port you gotta spend a good penny...then you'll want a bigger turbo but you cant do that safely w/o more fuel, you cant add more fuel w/o tuning, so on and so forth.... look to spend on good quality stuff
#5
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Fastest and cheapest? This has been covered before, and the answer is a 200 shot of nitrous & a valve from Home Depot. Lots of horsepower
... for all of 1 second.
But really, you will need a big hybrid or full turbo upgrade, a standalone, big injectors, big fuel pump, a better intercooler, and other misc. parts.
... for all of 1 second.
But really, you will need a big hybrid or full turbo upgrade, a standalone, big injectors, big fuel pump, a better intercooler, and other misc. parts.
#7
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I achieved it with a street port and a t04b turbo, not a monster by any stretch.
BUT I also have a FMIC, the only thing stock on my fuel system is the line going from the tank to the fuel filter, and the car is tuned with a Wolf V500. The internals of my engine are just about all new as well.
You might be able to shoestring something together, but it aint gonna last.
BUT I also have a FMIC, the only thing stock on my fuel system is the line going from the tank to the fuel filter, and the car is tuned with a Wolf V500. The internals of my engine are just about all new as well.
You might be able to shoestring something together, but it aint gonna last.
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Cheap and fast?
they Do NOT go together!...that is Like JUMBO Shrimp...purely an Oxymoron!
RX7's that are done Cheap and WENT fast are most likely NOT working now!..(can you say rebuild?)
they Do NOT go together!...that is Like JUMBO Shrimp...purely an Oxymoron!
RX7's that are done Cheap and WENT fast are most likely NOT working now!..(can you say rebuild?)
#11
start small and be ready to have your car down for a WHILE most bulids take lots of time and lots of money! for that amount of money prob upgrade turbo, fuel pump, injectors, FMIC, and ecu that is a start!! but then research tuning and this all depends upon your knowledge if you kno how to tune or if you just started and going into it blind! dont for get FCD since your boosting more, if you want reliable get a rebuild kit from mazdatrix. lots of stuff you can do. RESEARCH!!
#12
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Must Haves
Standalone ECU (Haltech,Microtech,etc.)
Upgraded Fuel Pump (Walbro 255)
Bigger Turbo (BNR Stage 4 might fit the bill but my stage 2 has topped out at 323whp)
FMIC or VMIC
Bigger Radiator (Koyo,etc.)
Upgraded clutch
Bigger Rims/Tires
Exhaust
Wideband O2
Might be a good idea to add Aux/Water injection from a reliability stand point.
In terms of porting you can get the job done with a Streetport. Not sure if you can make 400hp on stock ports. Anybody chime in on this?
Standalone ECU (Haltech,Microtech,etc.)
Upgraded Fuel Pump (Walbro 255)
Bigger Turbo (BNR Stage 4 might fit the bill but my stage 2 has topped out at 323whp)
FMIC or VMIC
Bigger Radiator (Koyo,etc.)
Upgraded clutch
Bigger Rims/Tires
Exhaust
Wideband O2
Might be a good idea to add Aux/Water injection from a reliability stand point.
In terms of porting you can get the job done with a Streetport. Not sure if you can make 400hp on stock ports. Anybody chime in on this?
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#19
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Why put a hybrid turbo on a 400hp car?
To4s/60-1/gt35r........
You could probably make that on an ebay big shaft t70.
Fuel, fuel and more fuel. A pump that can support over 400 hp (not the bare minimum, you dont want to skimp on fuel, larger injectors, I'd do 1000cc all the way around.
With your rebuild, not everything is a throw away part. Your housings could be reused, rotors, stationary gears, rotor bearings, side seals... I'd do new corner seals and apex seals. Um, new oil control rings, new soft seals, new rotor springs (oil rings, corner springs, apex and side seal springs)...... I would get new apex seals. Probably some standard 2mm 2pc seals. You dont need 3mm seals.
I would look into adding some dowels to the block and if you are doing this to an s4 motor maybe going to an s5 rear plate?
Engine management, the required gauges (i say "required" because you're a moron if you only try to tune a car with a boost gauge and narrowband), meth/alk injection...... Meth/alk injection is good because you can change the system to compensate for super hot ambient air or super cold ambient air. Winter/summer temps..... Your car isn't going to make the same amount of power on the same tune when it's 32* outside versus 107* outside.
It will cost you under 10k, i'm sure but expect some of that budget to be eaten up by time on the dyno getting a proper tune.
I dont want or need a 400hp rotary simply because i KNOW (despite asking frequent questions about basic **** that i can't seem to dig up to save my life) what's required to build one and have it last. 220whp is my goal and if i make more than that on stock ports by going to larger injectors, a better tune and a bigger turbo, so be it but to me, a budget setup is "bare bones good enough". You can't build a "bare bones good enough" 400hp rotary, especially an s4 without some extensive work and a good bit of money unless you have some connections that you need to foward me to asap.
Air and fuel. You keep those things balanced just right, keep your egt's and afr's in check and you can do alot on stock ports but like others said, dont expect it to last if you skimp. 400hp build IMO would necessitate cracking the engine open, spending some money and getting some **** done.
If you'll excuse me i'm going to go finish my beer, sit in my yet to be installed fiberglass racing bucket and kick some *** on the ps2.....
Edit: I agree entirely what the guy above me said and it pretty much sums up what i typed.
OVERBUILD.
To4s/60-1/gt35r........
You could probably make that on an ebay big shaft t70.
Fuel, fuel and more fuel. A pump that can support over 400 hp (not the bare minimum, you dont want to skimp on fuel, larger injectors, I'd do 1000cc all the way around.
With your rebuild, not everything is a throw away part. Your housings could be reused, rotors, stationary gears, rotor bearings, side seals... I'd do new corner seals and apex seals. Um, new oil control rings, new soft seals, new rotor springs (oil rings, corner springs, apex and side seal springs)...... I would get new apex seals. Probably some standard 2mm 2pc seals. You dont need 3mm seals.
I would look into adding some dowels to the block and if you are doing this to an s4 motor maybe going to an s5 rear plate?
Engine management, the required gauges (i say "required" because you're a moron if you only try to tune a car with a boost gauge and narrowband), meth/alk injection...... Meth/alk injection is good because you can change the system to compensate for super hot ambient air or super cold ambient air. Winter/summer temps..... Your car isn't going to make the same amount of power on the same tune when it's 32* outside versus 107* outside.
It will cost you under 10k, i'm sure but expect some of that budget to be eaten up by time on the dyno getting a proper tune.
I dont want or need a 400hp rotary simply because i KNOW (despite asking frequent questions about basic **** that i can't seem to dig up to save my life) what's required to build one and have it last. 220whp is my goal and if i make more than that on stock ports by going to larger injectors, a better tune and a bigger turbo, so be it but to me, a budget setup is "bare bones good enough". You can't build a "bare bones good enough" 400hp rotary, especially an s4 without some extensive work and a good bit of money unless you have some connections that you need to foward me to asap.
Air and fuel. You keep those things balanced just right, keep your egt's and afr's in check and you can do alot on stock ports but like others said, dont expect it to last if you skimp. 400hp build IMO would necessitate cracking the engine open, spending some money and getting some **** done.
If you'll excuse me i'm going to go finish my beer, sit in my yet to be installed fiberglass racing bucket and kick some *** on the ps2.....
Edit: I agree entirely what the guy above me said and it pretty much sums up what i typed.
OVERBUILD.
#25
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No, his wastegate vacuum line melted and that resulted in a blown engine...
Has nothing to do with reliability of the hybrid or stock port engine
We shall see, as i have my stage 4 being built right now and see how my stock port engine will perform...
i already made more power with stock turbo and ports at 14psi, then i have seen or heard about in a long time(265rwhp)
My engine is strong, it dealt with heavy detonation, 20psi boostspikes, a/f of 18 under load...
I will in fact shoot For the 400rwhp or at least try getting close...
Has nothing to do with reliability of the hybrid or stock port engine
We shall see, as i have my stage 4 being built right now and see how my stock port engine will perform...
i already made more power with stock turbo and ports at 14psi, then i have seen or heard about in a long time(265rwhp)
My engine is strong, it dealt with heavy detonation, 20psi boostspikes, a/f of 18 under load...
I will in fact shoot For the 400rwhp or at least try getting close...