My idle doesn't change with the initial set coupler in. I've got the idle around 750-800, but it still sounds like the car is laboring to keep in there, you know what I mean?

 

Anyone has the instruction that used to be on teamfc3s.net under FAQ, the ones that shows how to build your own TPS tester with LED lights?

 

no but, i can tell you how get 2 lights 12v fron radio shack and put the reds in one spade and one spade on each black and your done

 

While working on my car last night, I discovered that my TPS was out of adjustment, no surprise to me, so I proceeded to get it to read 1K OHMS. I realized that after I set it and hit the linkage to full throttle and realeased it, it wouldn't read 1K anymore, but upwards of ~2.5K. I reached down to the adjustment screw and pulled the linkage to the stop and it read 1K again. So now, I figured one of two things is happening:

1. The throttle cable has stretched after 15 years of use to not bring the throttle linkage to the idle stop. I adjusted the cable and it helped a little, but not enough.
2. The throttle linkage is binding or sticking. I dumped a bunch of PB Blaster on the linkage hoping to loosen it up.

I set the TPS again to read 1K and hit the linkage a few times and it would return a lot closer to the idle stop, but still about 1/16 of an inch away. A few times it would release all the way to the stop, but that was from WOT which gives it more energy from the springs to fully hit the stop. From half throttle, it would still stop early.

A few questions now:
1. Should I adjust the idle stop to compensate or not?
2. I plan on doing the throttle body mod very soon, will the stuff that I remove from the linkage make it easier for it to return to the stop?
3. Should I try a different throttle body before I do the TB Mod?
4. Will the TB mod have any adverse affects on this problem? ( I would like to get this fixed before I do the TB mod....... fix before mod, not mod to fix, right?)

 

first, the throttle cable needs to be LOOSE.
Also check the cruise control cable if you have one.
You need about 1/4 inch total deflection in the cables.

Do NOT mod anything until you fix this problem.
Because, when your TB mod doents work, you'll be lost as to why.

Always have an extra unmodded TB available when you do a TB mod.

Yes the tb mod will adversely effect this issue.

You have the right idea there.

 

THIS MIGHT BE A LITTLE PROBLEM FOR ME TOO. i did the tb mod and mine does the same thing but i know my throttle cable is streched i had to use spcers to get it back in alignment. i did adjust the idle stop but it did not help, also when taking the tb out i took apart where the cables go on the side and was unable to get the springs correctly lined up this might be part of why mine might not be returning all the way as well as the deflection is less than 1/4"


james

 

Thanks for the info!!

 

adjusting the throttle cable is SIMPLE.

loosen the two bolts that are clamping the on the holder!

 

hey sniper on anther note with the boost sensor what did you mean by the motor's ok for now? also it's gotten so bad that i can't even go past 4k and it's getting hard to even get from 3k to 4k can i do anything in the mean time i have a boost sensor on the way but can i unplug it or something just until i get it in??

 

oh and knonfs your welcome

 

You could try that.. it wont hurt anything.


Good thing im online.

Would you have really waited until I responded to try this?

Have you ever pulled your engine codes?
you know that the car can tell you whats wrong...right?!

 

I do have extra TB's around. The CC cable was fine, it had about 1/4 - 1/2 inch deflection, but the throttle cable had at LEAST 1/2 maybe even 3/4 deflection, that's why I tightened it. It has a little deflection now, about the same as the CC cable. I can't help to think that the springs in the linkage assembly are not strong enough to return it to the idle stop.

 

well, you can trade the TB out to see if your right!

You probably are, but your the first to ever have this problem that I can tell.

These springs are usually never messed with.
look at the microfice exploded parts view to verify proper re-assembly.

pm me of you need access to that data.

 

ya sniper i got a lot of time i didn't think it would hurt anything but will it help any either?? also i'd like the exploded view of the throttle body if it showes how all the little springs and the linkage connector goes on you can email it to : natushasfreakydeaky@hotmail.com


thanks
james

 

i cannot email it.
PM me if you have ftp capabilitites.
its part of a huge microfice set.

 

This works best with a loud exhaust.
Find a flat open road with a gap in the traffic. Cruise along at about 3k rpm. Lift off the throttle. This should give a fuel cut on both rotors as you back down. The motor is just pumping air.
Very gently pick up just the slightest throttle. With practice you can hear the rough sound of only #1 rotor getting fuel, while #2 pumps air.
Then adding just a little more throttle, #2 comes on. You can also do this as you slow down in gear and the throttle is near, but not quite at idle. As you lift the throttle you can hear the #2 fuel cut before #1.
When you get down to 1500rpm fuel comes back on to prevent stalling, so this works best between 1500 and 3k.

 

Where is the TPS in the S4 NA?

 

the box is on the throtle body held on by 2 bolts it's just to the right and below the elbow.

 

I am going to try a different TPS from a friends TII that I KNOW is good before I swap in another TB.

 

speaking of the TPS I'm guessing the S5 TPS is different from the S4? I seen the TPS adjustment writeup on the S4, but not for the S5. Here's my question..

|---*---|
| E C A |
| F D B |
----------

Between pins A and B there's about 1 k-Ohm resistance at closed, then like 3.8 at full throttle. Between C and D there's infinite resistance. Between E and F there's a measurement, and between miscellaneous other one's there's a measurement too.