How Far can I push it safely?
#1
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How Far can I push it safely?
hey guys
my upgrade turbo kit just arrived in the mail today and will be installing it on my S4 TII shortly...
I got an externally Gated TD06-20G kit...
i know the stock clutch wont last too long i'll be ordering it soon..
Haltech E6X/E6K is on the shopping list for the near future..
but i was wondering how far do u think I can go on the 20G tuning with only AFC II on an RTek combo?
Ideally i'd like around 1 Bar... as I heard the 20G is not that effecient below that... but i don't want to grenade my motor either...
i'll be installing it opening the WG all the way.. and driving it to the dyno, and Tuning it myself.
my complete mods are as follows:
3" straight through exh
Knight Sports Elec Boost Controller
S-AFC II
Walbro 255lph Fuel pump
Greddy 720CC secondary inj.
RTEK 1.7 ECU
Trust oldschool style FMIC
Tein Super Street coilovers
Racing Beat Alum Flywheel (not installed yet waiting for clutch)
Crane Cams CDI
Mazdatrix Short Shifter
Blitz TurboTimer
Front/Rear Strut bars
Cancelled P/S, A/C, emissions control etc
92 Octane fuel
Opinions guys?
my upgrade turbo kit just arrived in the mail today and will be installing it on my S4 TII shortly...
I got an externally Gated TD06-20G kit...
i know the stock clutch wont last too long i'll be ordering it soon..
Haltech E6X/E6K is on the shopping list for the near future..
but i was wondering how far do u think I can go on the 20G tuning with only AFC II on an RTek combo?
Ideally i'd like around 1 Bar... as I heard the 20G is not that effecient below that... but i don't want to grenade my motor either...
i'll be installing it opening the WG all the way.. and driving it to the dyno, and Tuning it myself.
my complete mods are as follows:
3" straight through exh
Knight Sports Elec Boost Controller
S-AFC II
Walbro 255lph Fuel pump
Greddy 720CC secondary inj.
RTEK 1.7 ECU
Trust oldschool style FMIC
Tein Super Street coilovers
Racing Beat Alum Flywheel (not installed yet waiting for clutch)
Crane Cams CDI
Mazdatrix Short Shifter
Blitz TurboTimer
Front/Rear Strut bars
Cancelled P/S, A/C, emissions control etc
92 Octane fuel
Opinions guys?
#4
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#5
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yeah, 720 secondaries wont take you too far. You'd be better off switching those to the primaries and getting something larger for the secondaries. At least 1000cc.
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#11
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ted, have you ever used a td06 before? 300 whp @ 15psi????? i've got more than that from hybrids at 9 or 10 psi before.
jeff, post up your dyno sheet.
boost actually went up to about 8.5 psi, but was back at 6psi by 7k rpm.
jeff, post up your dyno sheet.
boost actually went up to about 8.5 psi, but was back at 6psi by 7k rpm.
#12
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Originally Posted by andrewdruiz
Quote from dave "greedy td06, i built and ported the motor, greedy intercooler, fd upper, meecrotech." its got a streetport i think. But he also tuned a motor that same day, 230whp @ 4 psi on stock turbo
Delete stock AFM and run aggressive timing, and power jumps like 20%+ easily.
-Ted
#13
Lives on the Forum
Originally Posted by GUITARJUNKIE28
ted, have you ever used a td06 before? 300 whp @ 15psi????? i've got more than that from hybrids at 9 or 10 psi before.
They were both using AIC's a loooong time ago. :P
I find the TD06's are a bit inefficient at lower boost ranges.
Get that thing closer to 20psi, and it wakes up a lot!
I think the Mitsubishi turbos use "parallel diffuser plates" in the compressor housing?
That design is a bit dated and not very efficient at low boost.
At 15psi it starts to wake up, but it's not as fun as 20psi.
-Ted
#14
The end of an era
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Originally Posted by RETed
Give the guy a break...he's still using the stock ECU (i.e. RTEK), and this implies he still has the stock AFM. :P
Delete stock AFM and run aggressive timing, and power jumps like 20%+ easily.
-Ted
Delete stock AFM and run aggressive timing, and power jumps like 20%+ easily.
-Ted
#15
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Originally Posted by andrewdruiz
Those are still pretty damn good numbers, on the tdo6 doing 309 @ 6 psi and stocker turbo doing 230 @ 4 psi , I'm still suprised you don't have a standalone Ted, for shame, for shame Maybe you and guitarjunkie can finally have a friendly conversation over the e8, thats what he has in his fd
Second, I was sitting on the fence for a LONG time on the E6X, and I've made the decision to PASS on it.
I'm still waiting on more feedback on the E8, but I'm pretty sure I'm going E8 soon.
I'm just waiting for my source for pricing on the E8 for me, and it's a done deal.
I was going to go E11, but it's overkill for a 13BT.
The E8 was a good decision for Haltech, but it still remains to be seen, as their record with new ECU's has not been very good.
With the E8, I'd add to my experience with the Haltech ECU's, and that's always good for business.
-Ted
#17
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another thing I noticed..
will it be a problem if my AFM reads 100%? or will using the afc in the upper RPM be ok to compensate for the overflowed AFM?
oh and the Dyno uses a tailpipe clip tipe WB02
i have just a straight pipe with cannon exhaust.... will my A/F numbers be off much?
is high 11's for A/F ok to shoot for? or should i go richer?
will it be a problem if my AFM reads 100%? or will using the afc in the upper RPM be ok to compensate for the overflowed AFM?
oh and the Dyno uses a tailpipe clip tipe WB02
i have just a straight pipe with cannon exhaust.... will my A/F numbers be off much?
is high 11's for A/F ok to shoot for? or should i go richer?
#18
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high 11's is good through about the 300hp mark.. some guys go beyond that, some guys more conservative. i'd probably get it dialed for low 11's, pay attention to your egt's and build the power with timing.
#19
i'm disrespectful to dirt
Originally Posted by GUITARJUNKIE28
jeff, post up your dyno sheet.
boost actually went up to about 8.5 psi, but was back at 6psi by 7k rpm.
boost actually went up to about 8.5 psi, but was back at 6psi by 7k rpm.
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