Alright, this is honestly a real question. Now, I know that rotaries like to be revved, hell, revving them is good. However, with a TII, when you rev them you put extra stress on them from the turbo. How exactly do the "experts" drive their cars? I'm wondering because it seems that if you baby 'em, then they die. If you rev to redline sometimes or shift higher up in the RPMs, then they die. How do you make a decently modded TII engine last as long as you do all the proper maintanence, cooling and fuel mods?

It's the question not even the ancients couldn't answer...

 

"How do you make a decently modded TII engine last as..."

That's mighty rhetorical.

But i'll bite

To make one last, low boost, proper maintence, regular replacement of vital parts (IE new injectors when you may not need them), never lean or detonate, and finally, lots of cash.


About driving it, like you stole it. If you baby it and it dies, you'll hate yourself. If you have fun while driving it and it dies, well then it's ok. You know why!

 

When I say decently modded, I mean...DP, Intake, and perhaps a cat-back.

I'm referring more to driving style than anything else. I know that more boost equals less mileage possible on an engine.

 

Look again, I think I was editing my post when you typed that....F5!!

 

so far my driving like my cars like is stole them has worked flawlessly. hell i beat the crap out of the T2 at the track and now its running better if your car is gonna break its gonna break no matter what you might as well have some fun doing it like josepi said

 

See, I'm just trying to figure out how or why my front rotor decided to crap out on me. This was my driving procedure..

Start car, let warm up for a few minutes.
Drive gently for about 10 minutes, never going into boost.
Then when I would actually *drive* the car, I would shift at 5k every once in a while, but 30% of all shift sequences would involve at least a little bit of boost, even if I shifted at 3500 RPM or so. Once a week or whenever I felt the urge, I would take my car in boost up to 6K or so in a sequence of 1,2, and 3rd gears...or until I was exceeding the speed limit greatly. I had my fun with the car and when she gets rolling again, she'll be even better.

 

i ALWAYS let my car warm up before going above 3k-3.5k rpms. whenever i drive any of my cars as long as its warmed up all the way i hit redline a few times. in my nearly 4 years of owning rotaries i have never had a rotary leave me stranded. that includes driving cars with blown engines, etc

 

I let mine warm up and cool down, I dont drive it hard infact i drive it well withing the speed limits, i try to give it a bit at least once every time out (when its Warm) you could call it Agresive driving. Proberly every second week i dont stay within the limits and have fun on are back roads (just to blow out any carbon build up you understand).

Rx's like to be Driven hard ONLY when there warm.

 

good post

time to rate it

 

vosko, what are your mods again?

 

on the gtu. I am thinking, with 86mph trap speed. you are right, might not be enough for aa 15.7 run

 

Here is my recipe:
1.Never idle the car to warm it up-I start driving as soon as the oil pressure is up and I roll back out of my driveway.
2.When warming the engine up I have two rules,keep the rpm in the 2000-3000rpm range,and keep the engine load low ie do not depress the acc pedal more than a fraction of full pedal.
3.When fully warm(water and oil,say 10 miles)typically I drive up to 5000rpm and 1/2 throttle when accelerating,and cruise at 75 mph.
4.Once in a while go a little crazy,but rarely approach 7000 rpm.

 

As soon as I start the car, I leave. I keep it under about 3500 until the temp gauge moves, then I take it to 5k. I almost always have the car in boost (love making the BOV noise), but I have to short shift at 5500-6300 and/or let off a little to stay under 12 psi, depending on the temp.

 

MODS on which car the GTU ? it has pacesetter headers bonez hiflow cat,intake, mazdatrix short shifter. that's all. it also helps to have fresh engine. our 89-91's are pigs compared to the 86-88's. if i was gonna keep the gtu. i would put a race pipe and get rid of ac and air pump. taking out my stereo would be a good help too oh well lemme know when you wanna race against the GTU you know i'm gonna beat you regardless

 

I wonder if a GTU could beat a Japanese series 4 convertible (turbo)? I always let my car idle for about 3-5 minutes before I drive, and let the turbo timer bring everything back down.

 

The only time I really let my car warm up is in the winter when I start it, then scrape all the ice/frost off the windows. It also takes me about a minute to decide what music to listen to...

 

First, when approaching the turn, you jerk the wheels in the opposite direction you are turning, then immediately turn them back while popping the clutch at about 5K or so, as soon as you pop the clutch you need to immediately counter steer and control the throttle until it is time to exit the turn................

 

Or spin out and hit an inanimate object, whichever occurs first.

 

Only the amateurs....

 

eh...I LOVE revving my NA up to redline at least a couple times a day. It gives such great satisfaction revving it up that high, even if the power level is still low. So basically your saying that if/when i get my TII engine, i have to baby it..? =( I want a fast car i can have fun with too..whats the point of speed if you cant use it half the time? (accelerating around that turn/takin 1st and 2nd up to red and then popping it into 3rd for a second, then 4th).
Would it not be bad for the engine (i have never even ridden in a turbo rotary) to do this as long as maintainence is kept strict and boost levels are watched? (of course redlining and thrusting boost up too an unsafe level will kill the engine)

 

I really dont know what you all are babling about...although I let my TII warm up and cool down, and never go above 3K rpm the first 5-10 minutes, I shift at 6500-7000 more often than I do at 4000

The redline buzzer is my friend....

 

Ditto, I only shift low in traffic. If there's no one infront of me, it's shift at 6500, rpms drop back to 3000, back to 6500, repeat, repeat, look at speedo and say "oh damn", sloooooow down .

 

i let it warm up all the way to operating temp. i have a sfac so i usually watch the throttle %. when i start her up the % usually reads about 25% then goes down slowly to 0% (it takes 5-10 min.) depending on how cold it is, thats when i take off. i drive slowly so the tranny heats up for another 5 minutes. then if traffic is light i'll shift at around 4000rpms. towards the end of my trip i'll take it up to 5000-6000rpms to get some carbon out. once in a while i'll find a long quite road and do some strong runs.

so far so good, my engine has 110,000 miles and idles smooth. i get 15in. vacuum at idle and hit 13psi on a cold night.

 

Im with the rest of you...

If you change the oil and keep maintenance on it, your can drive it hard all day. I change the oil and plugs and fuel filter....good regular maintenance when I should,

I let it warm up until proper temp and let it cool down.

But ****, intbetween that, I dont' usually bury the tach to 7.5 k, But Ill go through every gear like I was at the track on a daily basis. I easily **** more at 5-6.5k than lower. .....I've never had a rotary strand me either...How would shifting at higher rpms hurt your car worse than shifting at 3K??? The only think that is going to damage the engine, (besides normal wear and tear) is stuff the breaks, fuel voltage(pump) to much boost blah blah, but otherwise if you make sure everthing is running excellant I cant see driving your car hard would hurt it to much more.

 

HAHAH, Sounds like we're racing motorbikes here! All motorcycle enthusiasts ever talk about is counter-steering!