How do you make your FC3S run cooler ?
06-01-12, 01:18 PM
#26
Of course its turbo! :big thumb: I didn't make a shroud yet. Engine should be back from rebuild tomorrow. Still a work in progress. It shouldn't be hard for some one to make for me, or I might even be able to make it myself.
Here is my radiator, pre modifications. Water outlet is now on the side. There is 4 vertical mounts, so I basically need a large square piece of sheet aluminum and to fold over the edges. Tape on the corners. Large hole in the center for the fan. 4 holes to mount shroud to radiator. 4 holes and rivets to mount fan to shroud.
Duct work on the front to feed radiator. If you look closely, you can see that its divided. Each unit gets its own share of air.
Girlfriends t2 is keeping the oem fan ftw. Obviously, I could not keep the oem fan with the type of config I went with.
Here is my radiator, pre modifications. Water outlet is now on the side. There is 4 vertical mounts, so I basically need a large square piece of sheet aluminum and to fold over the edges. Tape on the corners. Large hole in the center for the fan. 4 holes to mount shroud to radiator. 4 holes and rivets to mount fan to shroud.
Duct work on the front to feed radiator. If you look closely, you can see that its divided. Each unit gets its own share of air.
Girlfriends t2 is keeping the oem fan ftw. Obviously, I could not keep the oem fan with the type of config I went with.
Last edited by tuscanidream; 06-01-12 at 01:21 PM.
06-01-12, 01:23 PM
#27
+1 birlliant.
I've been running a v-mount with no ducting whatsoever for roughly 2 years. It did great in cool weather (<70) but it struggled above 85*. Cruising at 70mph temps stayed around 200* ironically they stayed around 190* around town cruising at lower speeds. The problem was sitting still , temps would climb up to 217* before I shut it down and let it cool down. To combat this I added an oil cooler fan, which bought be about another 5 min of run time, but certainly didn't cure the problem.
Recently I broke down and actually made some ducting for the sides and plugged the gap between the two cores (Rad and IC). WOW! in 90*+ ambient temps it will not go higher than 180*. Around town it stays around 180-185* depending on speed and idling has only gotten up to 198*.
I've been running a v-mount with no ducting whatsoever for roughly 2 years. It did great in cool weather (<70) but it struggled above 85*. Cruising at 70mph temps stayed around 200* ironically they stayed around 190* around town cruising at lower speeds. The problem was sitting still , temps would climb up to 217* before I shut it down and let it cool down. To combat this I added an oil cooler fan, which bought be about another 5 min of run time, but certainly didn't cure the problem.
Recently I broke down and actually made some ducting for the sides and plugged the gap between the two cores (Rad and IC). WOW! in 90*+ ambient temps it will not go higher than 180*. Around town it stays around 180-185* depending on speed and idling has only gotten up to 198*.
06-02-12, 02:03 PM
#28
Sorry, these are the best pics I have atm.
Its a 120mm PC fan. Teflon coated bearings, waterproof (like runs under water--waterproof) around 200 cfm. I just have one for now, but I will add another when I get the a/c working. I spaced it so there is room for 3 but you could fit 4 edge to edge if you really wanted to.
Its a 120mm PC fan. Teflon coated bearings, waterproof (like runs under water--waterproof) around 200 cfm. I just have one for now, but I will add another when I get the a/c working. I spaced it so there is room for 3 but you could fit 4 edge to edge if you really wanted to.
06-02-12, 11:49 PM
#30
Sorry, these are the best pics I have atm.
Its a 120mm PC fan. Teflon coated bearings, waterproof (like runs under water--waterproof) around 200 cfm. I just have one for now, but I will add another when I get the a/c working. I spaced it so there is room for 3 but you could fit 4 edge to edge if you really wanted to.
Its a 120mm PC fan. Teflon coated bearings, waterproof (like runs under water--waterproof) around 200 cfm. I just have one for now, but I will add another when I get the a/c working. I spaced it so there is room for 3 but you could fit 4 edge to edge if you really wanted to.
06-03-12, 10:22 AM
#31
Engine, Not Motor
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The fan from the Harley Davidson V-rod fits the FC oil cooler almost perfectly.
Of course being a Harley part you have to deal with the fan dripping oil, but it still works...
Of course being a Harley part you have to deal with the fan dripping oil, but it still works...
06-03-12, 02:17 PM
#33
Open mouth.....insert foot....
06-03-12, 02:57 PM
#35
These PC fans fit perfectly (not almost) the question is how much air does the harley fan pull? If its under 200cfm, or it costs more than $25 shipped brand new, it is likely a less desirable solution. Also interested in how many amps it pulls?
When I'm done w/engine break in I can do some more rigorous testing, but so far its been great. Keep in mind that my oil cooler is in the stock location, way behind and underneath the rad, so this fan PC is the only source of airflow while not moving at a moderate speed. (I was running this fan for 3 months before my engine rebuild and its been 1 month since...)
When I'm done w/engine break in I can do some more rigorous testing, but so far its been great. Keep in mind that my oil cooler is in the stock location, way behind and underneath the rad, so this fan PC is the only source of airflow while not moving at a moderate speed. (I was running this fan for 3 months before my engine rebuild and its been 1 month since...)
06-03-12, 03:11 PM
#36
Apprentice Tech.
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These PC fans fit perfectly (not almost) the question is how much air does the harley fan pull? If its under 200cfm, or it costs more than $25 shipped brand new, it is likely a less desirable solution. Also interested in how many amps it pulls?
When I'm done w/engine break in I can do some more rigorous testing, but so far its been great. Keep in mind that my oil cooler is in the stock location, way behind and underneath the rad, so this fan PC is the only source of airflow while not moving at a moderate speed. (I was running this fan for 3 months before my engine rebuild and its been 1 month since...)
When I'm done w/engine break in I can do some more rigorous testing, but so far its been great. Keep in mind that my oil cooler is in the stock location, way behind and underneath the rad, so this fan PC is the only source of airflow while not moving at a moderate speed. (I was running this fan for 3 months before my engine rebuild and its been 1 month since...)
06-03-12, 03:23 PM
#37
I got bored, so I did a little research. The harley fans go for $60-70 new (plus shipping) and pull a little over 300cfm in free air @ 3.6A.
For $50 I could run 2 waterproof fans with better fitment, pulling 350 cfm (2x175) or 400cfm (2x200) @ 2.84 amps and 3.9 amps respectively. And no oil leaks
"The choice is yours!" - Cpt. Planet
Last edited by sharingan 19; 06-03-12 at 03:36 PM. Reason: Checked current fan listings, there are 2 different fans available one 175cfm one 200cfm. Upated post accordingly.
06-03-12, 04:14 PM
#39
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