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How do you make your FC3S run cooler ?
Ok im wondering how you make your FC's run cooler temps... I have an s4 n/a and i was planning to turbo, I know they have smaller coolant passages on the n/a housings and was wondering what I could do to compensate for this...
I bought some waterwetter but I dont really think that is going to do anything much...what else can I do that marginally cheap to make my car run cooler ? |
First thing to do is make sure that all the stock plastic baffles and shields are in place. The undertray, the pieces under the hood in front of the rad - etc. Make sure your clutch fan works, and the water wetter will help.
But once you do those minor things - the next 'real' step is an upgraded rad. If you are going turbo, this might be something you'll want to include in your upgrade. If you are adding a FMIC to your newly turbo'd engined - then you will DEFINATELY want a bigger better rad. |
Originally Posted by Nick86
First thing to do is make sure that all the stock plastic baffles and shields are in place. The undertray, the pieces under the hood in front of the rad - etc. Make sure your clutch fan works, and the water wetter will help.
But once you do those minor things - the next 'real' step is an upgraded rad. If you are going turbo, this might be something you'll want to include in your upgrade. If you are adding a FMIC to your newly turbo'd engined - then you will DEFINATELY want a bigger better rad. was prolly just gonna get a top mount tII intercooler and tII hood ... more cheaper this way i guess unless i just get the fmic (since the hood may have to be painted) |
I had a spare FAL 12" slim-fan laying around so I removed the stock fan/clutch and fan shroud and mounted the slim fan directly to the radiator. These FAL 12" fans move a LOT of air around...I'm sure much more than any stock fan could. I'm also looking to upgrade my cooling system so I've bouht a new thermostat, several gallons of distilled water and a bottle of redline water wetter. This has been my combination of choice in all of my cars including my 300+hp Taurus SHO. The SHO's are HIGHLY dependent on cool running temps to make any power. The distilled water+water wetter always worked best for me.
good luck |
Originally Posted by Roddimus Prime
I had a spare FAL 12" slim-fan laying around so I removed the stock fan/clutch and fan shroud and mounted the slim fan directly to the radiator. These FAL 12" fans move a LOT of air around...I'm sure much more than any stock fan could.
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A cheap thing you can do is adjust the antifreeze/water ratio of your radiator fluid. If you don't think it will be getting colder in RI anytime soon, do a flush and then pour in a mix with a higher amount of water. The only problem/hassle with this is making sure to change over to a winter ratio when the cold weather comes
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Originally Posted by ultradef
(Post 4249819)
The stock fan & shroud is actually very good. Most people find that their temps are cooler with the stock fan & shroud than with an electric fan. Of course this all depends on how big the e-fan is, the size of the shroud used, etc. but as a general rule the stock fan & shroud is better at cooling.
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Originally Posted by wthdidusay82
(Post 4249585)
Ok im wondering how you make your FC's run cooler temps... I have an s4 n/a and i was planning to turbo, I know they have smaller coolant passages on the n/a housings and was wondering what I could do to compensate for this...
I bought some waterwetter but I dont really think that is going to do anything much...what else can I do that marginally cheap to make my car run cooler ? Stock fan are good as already stated. An electric fan is really only needed for when custom setups don't allow the conventional fan (like a vmount or cramming in a 20b). An upgraded radiator might be your best bet for a cooling upgrade, next an intercooler. Budget, route and time constraints will determine your cooling needs. I went overboard on my setup, but wanted to take my time on the build and have a setup ready for anything. |
You dont want your car to "run cooler" you want it to take away enough heat to maintain operating temps while under load.
Since you say your running a top mount I assume an s4 or s5 turbo. The stock rad and oil cooler will work just fine e-fan or stock. To some of us your question is like asking how to make your tires more round so they can be rounder betterer. |
Does nobody else (except barkz) realize that this thread was made 7 years ago? Lol i dont think he'll be responding
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To the Zombie bumper,
Get a ford taurus E-fan It is THE ONLY E-fan worth trusting to pull enough air. |
Originally Posted by Digi7ech
(Post 11107417)
To the Zombie bumper,
Get a ford taurus E-fan It is THE ONLY E-fan worth trusting to pull enough air. Both Lincoln and Volvo have fans that I know from personal experience work just fine. |
And the mercury villager, and pontiac fiero fan that Aaron cake uses...
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Good examples as well.
The Lincoln fan is the same as tuarus I think. I've gone salvage yard searching and some of the lincolns share the same motor. Most are clutch fan though. I was saying that more in the way of to discourage him from buying those stupid fans at pepboys that only pull 1000cfm |
Originally Posted by fc3sfreek
(Post 11107220)
Does nobody else (except barkz) realize that this thread was made 7 years ago? Lol i dont think he'll be responding
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Originally Posted by Digi7ech
(Post 11107536)
Good examples as well.
The Lincoln fan is the same as tuarus I think.
Originally Posted by DaKill3rInstinct
(Post 11108649)
It is but I've been thinking about switching to an electric fan and my friend told me they fail in the second gen....
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Originally Posted by DaKill3rInstinct
(Post 11108649)
It is but I've been thinking about switching to an electric fan and my friend told me they fail in the second gen....so I needed some opinions so im glad they're talking lol
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Or.....you wire it up like a jackass.
Or......you wire it to a toggle switch and forget to turn it on. |
I've been running this fan for probably ten years with no problem. Of course I am n/a but I think it would be fine on a turbo car as well.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/PRM-19115/?rtype=10 https://static.summitracing.com/glob...rm-19115_w.jpg It sure was cheaper ten years ago. |
I choose to go with spal. Yet to test it, but I'm not worried. 2024cfm. It's sealed and slim, perfect for being low to the ground with my vmount. http://www.spalusa.com/store/main.as...&item=30102049
Ps make a shroud and it will perform much better. |
Originally Posted by tuscanidream
(Post 11109351)
I choose to go with spal. Yet to test it, but I'm not worried. 2024cfm. It's sealed and slim, perfect for being low to the ground with my vmount. http://www.spalusa.com/store/main.as...&item=30102049
Ps make a shroud and it will perform much better. The further you can space the fan from the rad core, the better. As for CFM...it's a nonsense statistic without more info about the test conditions, specifically was the test performed in "free" air (no restriction) or not. Usually you'll be seeing CFM based on no restriction because it looks better (higher number) but mount it on a radiator and things change quickly. How the rad is mounted also makes a big difference. If the core is perpendicular to airflow, the fan doesn't work as hard because the air wants to flow through. The more acute the mounting angle (say, tuscan's v-mount), the harder the fan works to pull air. Ductwork in front of the rad can mitigate less than optimal rad placement, the design being more critical in a multi-matrix setup (again, the v-mount). Air, like water, much prefers the path of least resistance and it would be easy to end up with one core (say, the intercooler) flowing much better than the other (the radiator) due to extraction conditions post-cooler. Like any system, the cooling loop will have an operational sweet spot- the combination of factors (vehicle speed, RPM, ambient temp, etc.) that produce optimal performance. On either side of this "spot", performance degrades. Depending on your creativity, ability and dedication you can engineer this sweet spot to coincide with the normal operating conditions of your particular car (and remember, you, the driver, are one of those "operating conditions"). |
Originally Posted by tuscanidream
(Post 11109351)
I choose to go with spal. Yet to test it, but I'm not worried. 2024cfm. It's sealed and slim, perfect for being low to the ground with my vmount. http://www.spalusa.com/store/main.as...&item=30102049
Ps make a shroud and it will perform much better. |
Originally Posted by clokker
(Post 11109415)
Yes, by all means shroud your fan(s).
The further you can space the fan from the rad core, the better. As for CFM...it's a nonsense statistic without more info about the test conditions, specifically was the test performed in "free" air (no restriction) or not. Usually you'll be seeing CFM based on no restriction because it looks better (higher number) but mount it on a radiator and things change quickly. How the rad is mounted also makes a big difference. If the core is perpendicular to airflow, the fan doesn't work as hard because the air wants to flow through. The more acute the mounting angle (say, tuscan's v-mount), the harder the fan works to pull air. Ductwork in front of the rad can mitigate less than optimal rad placement, the design being more critical in a multi-matrix setup (again, the v-mount). Air, like water, much prefers the path of least resistance and it would be easy to end up with one core (say, the intercooler) flowing much better than the other (the radiator) due to extraction conditions post-cooler. Like any system, the cooling loop will have an operational sweet spot- the combination of factors (vehicle speed, RPM, ambient temp, etc.) that produce optimal performance. On either side of this "spot", performance degrades. Depending on your creativity, ability and dedication you can engineer this sweet spot to coincide with the normal operating conditions of your particular car (and remember, you, the driver, are one of those "operating conditions"). |
Originally Posted by clokker
(Post 11109415)
Yes, by all means shroud your fan(s).
The further you can space the fan from the rad core, the better. As for CFM...it's a nonsense statistic without more info about the test conditions, specifically was the test performed in "free" air (no restriction) or not. Usually you'll be seeing CFM based on no restriction because it looks better (higher number) but mount it on a radiator and things change quickly. How the rad is mounted also makes a big difference. If the core is perpendicular to airflow, the fan doesn't work as hard because the air wants to flow through. The more acute the mounting angle (say, tuscan's v-mount), the harder the fan works to pull air. Ductwork in front of the rad can mitigate less than optimal rad placement, the design being more critical in a multi-matrix setup (again, the v-mount). Air, like water, much prefers the path of least resistance and it would be easy to end up with one core (say, the intercooler) flowing much better than the other (the radiator) due to extraction conditions post-cooler. Like any system, the cooling loop will have an operational sweet spot- the combination of factors (vehicle speed, RPM, ambient temp, etc.) that produce optimal performance. On either side of this "spot", performance degrades. Depending on your creativity, ability and dedication you can engineer this sweet spot to coincide with the normal operating conditions of your particular car (and remember, you, the driver, are one of those "operating conditions"). I've been running a v-mount with no ducting whatsoever for roughly 2 years. It did great in cool weather (<70) but it struggled above 85*. Cruising at 70mph temps stayed around 200* ironically they stayed around 190* around town cruising at lower speeds. The problem was sitting still , temps would climb up to 217* before I shut it down and let it cool down. To combat this I added an oil cooler fan, which bought be about another 5 min of run time, but certainly didn't cure the problem. Recently I broke down and actually made some ducting for the sides and plugged the gap between the two cores (Rad and IC). WOW! in 90*+ ambient temps it will not go higher than 180*. Around town it stays around 180-185* depending on speed and idling has only gotten up to 198*. |
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