how do i go about getting my FC to be a twin turbo?
10-24-10, 01:08 PM
#26
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1.) The S4 and S5 turbos are different... Twins are the exact same. Using one S4 and one S5 turbo would not be a twin turbo setup.
2.) You are not familiar with things such as boost lag, nor the idea that you'd need a new manifold with this setup... I think that doing this would be well over your head
3.) Have you put any thought into other upgrades that you'd need before you put the turbos on, or are you gonna put the two turbos on and then start upgrading other items?
Answer that last question very carefully.
2.) You are not familiar with things such as boost lag, nor the idea that you'd need a new manifold with this setup... I think that doing this would be well over your head
3.) Have you put any thought into other upgrades that you'd need before you put the turbos on, or are you gonna put the two turbos on and then start upgrading other items?
Answer that last question very carefully.
10-24-10, 01:24 PM
#27
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Granted rotaries can spool giant turbos with minimal lag, if you're shooting for flat out response at any given rpm, twins are rather peachy for that. Their combined cfm makes for big power and running smaller turbos increases spool.
However, you can run a non-divided manifold with a large aftermarket single and have a quick spool valve to block one scroll side off until a desired rpm/boost level.
You CAN run twins, sequential, parallel, compound, single...whatever the hell you want. Just do research. Dont bother asking. Makes you sound like someone who just graduated from swapping bone stock b series motors into a honda civic.
However, you can run a non-divided manifold with a large aftermarket single and have a quick spool valve to block one scroll side off until a desired rpm/boost level.
You CAN run twins, sequential, parallel, compound, single...whatever the hell you want. Just do research. Dont bother asking. Makes you sound like someone who just graduated from swapping bone stock b series motors into a honda civic.
10-24-10, 01:28 PM
#28
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I think as far as money vs. work, an REW swap would be a good way to go.
I mentioned doing the NS conversion, a few posts ago. The 'non-sequential' mod is something for FD guys, but that'd be the only way to do it, if you wanted to go that route.
Sequential: Turbo 'A' spools from base to, say 5psi, then turbo 'B' spools from there, up.
Non-Sequential (Parallel): Both turbos cover the same ground of spooling, ut teh boost levels aren't covered the same.
You could run a pair, in NS formation, with different-sized WG springs. That way, the WG of turbo 'A' would kick open at, say, 5#, and the WG from turbo 'B' at 10# or whatever your boost-controller is set to.
While this isn't exactly the best setup for street application, I've seen it work fairly well, on the track (great for the ability to hot-swap turbos, depending on the circuit's layout, as well.)
Since you're looking for lower-end response, I'd say do a relatively small turbo that's efficient up to about 10 or 15#. Low lag and good kick.
Bear in mind that other things, such as running a bigger pump and injectors (ntm possibly some snazzy tuning HW) will be required to go big...
Just try not to make the jump from 'Go,' to, 'Blow'.
Since you're wanting more low-end, I'd say go with a good snail that's going to spool quick, but be efficient to 10 or 15#. That way you'll have great response and kick, without the horrendous lag.
I mentioned doing the NS conversion, a few posts ago. The 'non-sequential' mod is something for FD guys, but that'd be the only way to do it, if you wanted to go that route.
Sequential: Turbo 'A' spools from base to, say 5psi, then turbo 'B' spools from there, up.
Non-Sequential (Parallel): Both turbos cover the same ground of spooling, ut teh boost levels aren't covered the same.
You could run a pair, in NS formation, with different-sized WG springs. That way, the WG of turbo 'A' would kick open at, say, 5#, and the WG from turbo 'B' at 10# or whatever your boost-controller is set to.
While this isn't exactly the best setup for street application, I've seen it work fairly well, on the track (great for the ability to hot-swap turbos, depending on the circuit's layout, as well.)
Since you're looking for lower-end response, I'd say do a relatively small turbo that's efficient up to about 10 or 15#. Low lag and good kick.
Bear in mind that other things, such as running a bigger pump and injectors (ntm possibly some snazzy tuning HW) will be required to go big...
Just try not to make the jump from 'Go,' to, 'Blow'.
Since you're wanting more low-end, I'd say go with a good snail that's going to spool quick, but be efficient to 10 or 15#. That way you'll have great response and kick, without the horrendous lag.
10-24-10, 01:38 PM
#29
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I think as far as money vs. work, an REW swap would be a good way to go.
I mentioned doing the NS conversion, a few posts ago. The 'non-sequential' mod is something for FD guys, but that'd be the only way to do it, if you wanted to go that route.
Sequential: Turbo 'A' spools from base to, say 5psi, then turbo 'B' spools from there, up.
Non-Sequential (Parallel): Both turbos cover the same ground of spooling, ut teh boost levels aren't covered the same.
You could run a pair, in NS formation, with different-sized WG springs. That way, the WG of turbo 'A' would kick open at, say, 5#, and the WG from turbo 'B' at 10# or whatever your boost-controller is set to.
While this isn't exactly the best setup for street application, I've seen it work fairly well, on the track (great for the ability to hot-swap turbos, depending on the circuit's layout, as well.)
Since you're looking for lower-end response, I'd say do a relatively small turbo that's efficient up to about 10 or 15#. Low lag and good kick.
Bear in mind that other things, such as running a bigger pump and injectors (ntm possibly some snazzy tuning HW) will be required to go big...
Just try not to make the jump from 'Go,' to, 'Blow'.
Since you're wanting more low-end, I'd say go with a good snail that's going to spool quick, but be efficient to 10 or 15#. That way you'll have great response and kick, without the horrendous lag.
I mentioned doing the NS conversion, a few posts ago. The 'non-sequential' mod is something for FD guys, but that'd be the only way to do it, if you wanted to go that route.
Sequential: Turbo 'A' spools from base to, say 5psi, then turbo 'B' spools from there, up.
Non-Sequential (Parallel): Both turbos cover the same ground of spooling, ut teh boost levels aren't covered the same.
You could run a pair, in NS formation, with different-sized WG springs. That way, the WG of turbo 'A' would kick open at, say, 5#, and the WG from turbo 'B' at 10# or whatever your boost-controller is set to.
While this isn't exactly the best setup for street application, I've seen it work fairly well, on the track (great for the ability to hot-swap turbos, depending on the circuit's layout, as well.)
Since you're looking for lower-end response, I'd say do a relatively small turbo that's efficient up to about 10 or 15#. Low lag and good kick.
Bear in mind that other things, such as running a bigger pump and injectors (ntm possibly some snazzy tuning HW) will be required to go big...
Just try not to make the jump from 'Go,' to, 'Blow'.
Since you're wanting more low-end, I'd say go with a good snail that's going to spool quick, but be efficient to 10 or 15#. That way you'll have great response and kick, without the horrendous lag.
as far as my injectors go i have 750 primary and secondary. and im pretty sure my fuel pump is stock.
10-24-10, 01:41 PM
#30
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1.) The S4 and S5 turbos are different... Twins are the exact same. Using one S4 and one S5 turbo would not be a twin turbo setup.
2.) You are not familiar with things such as boost lag, nor the idea that you'd need a new manifold with this setup... I think that doing this would be well over your head
3.) Have you put any thought into other upgrades that you'd need before you put the turbos on, or are you gonna put the two turbos on and then start upgrading other items?
Answer that last question very carefully.
2.) You are not familiar with things such as boost lag, nor the idea that you'd need a new manifold with this setup... I think that doing this would be well over your head
3.) Have you put any thought into other upgrades that you'd need before you put the turbos on, or are you gonna put the two turbos on and then start upgrading other items?
Answer that last question very carefully.
10-24-10, 01:46 PM
#31
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Porting is a great thing, but if your fuel system isn't up for the task, that'll be the death of you.
Even going with an FD pump would be better than stock... I'd say get a decent 255 and be done with it, though the FD one should suffice, though not really sure on the HP> flow-rate cap of it.
Even going with an FD pump would be better than stock... I'd say get a decent 255 and be done with it, though the FD one should suffice, though not really sure on the HP> flow-rate cap of it.
10-24-10, 02:01 PM
#33
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It is not possible for you to perform the work because you do not know what you are doing. However, you could just pay a professional shop to perform the work, although as already explained by other forum members you would probably be happier with an upgraded single turbo rather than twins. You could have a really nice single turbo setup for about $10,000, or you could go for a cheaper BNR upgrade with supporting fuel modifications. In your case, I recommend sticking with an emissions-friendly setup in case you get stationed in an emissions testing region.
Since the going price of a professional 20B swap is in the $35,000 range, I assume that you are either gettting a large reenlistment bonus or you are gong to be deployed for a very long time. If you are getting a bonus, then try to get it during a month that you are assigned to a combat zone so it will be tax-free. If you are on a long deployment, then I recommend saving your money in a money market account. Actually, I recommend that you fund a Roth IRA or TSP first before wasting every cent of your money on your car, but unfortunately young people usually don't listen to good financial advice like that.
http://www.investopedia.com/universi.../beginner2.asp
Since the going price of a professional 20B swap is in the $35,000 range, I assume that you are either gettting a large reenlistment bonus or you are gong to be deployed for a very long time. If you are getting a bonus, then try to get it during a month that you are assigned to a combat zone so it will be tax-free. If you are on a long deployment, then I recommend saving your money in a money market account. Actually, I recommend that you fund a Roth IRA or TSP first before wasting every cent of your money on your car, but unfortunately young people usually don't listen to good financial advice like that.
http://www.investopedia.com/universi.../beginner2.asp
10-24-10, 02:09 PM
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It is not possible for you to perform the work because you do not know what you are doing. However, you could just pay a professional shop to perform the work, although as already explained by other forum members you would probably be happier with an upgraded single turbo rather than twins. You could have a really nice single turbo setup for about $10,000, or you could go for a cheaper BNR upgrade with supporting fuel modifications. In your case, I recommend sticking with an emissions-friendly setup in case you get stationed in an emissions testing region.
Since the going price of a professional 20B swap is in the $35,000 range, I assume that you are either gettting a large reenlistment bonus or you are gong to be deployed for a very long time. If you are getting a bonus, then try to get it during a month that you are assigned to a combat zone so it will be tax-free. If you are on a long deployment, then I recommend saving your money in a money market account. Actually, I recommend that you fund a Roth IRA or TSP first before wasting every cent of your money on your car, but unfortunately young people usually don't listent to good financial advice like that.
http://www.investopedia.com/universi.../beginner2.asp
Since the going price of a professional 20B swap is in the $35,000 range, I assume that you are either gettting a large reenlistment bonus or you are gong to be deployed for a very long time. If you are getting a bonus, then try to get it during a month that you are assigned to a combat zone so it will be tax-free. If you are on a long deployment, then I recommend saving your money in a money market account. Actually, I recommend that you fund a Roth IRA or TSP first before wasting every cent of your money on your car, but unfortunately young people usually don't listent to good financial advice like that.
http://www.investopedia.com/universi.../beginner2.asp
10-24-10, 02:18 PM
#36
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Let's just put an end-all with this:
Peruse the threads about FC turbo upgrades. There're quite a few guys, on here that've done successful upgrades that put down some very respectable numbers and have posted about their builds.
Since it seems that you're catching more flak than helpful advice, you might be better off just putting some footwork in and wearing out the 'search' feature.
While I'm all about trying to help someone out (esp. a fellow soldier), at some point it becomes a conversation, rather than an advice-giving session...
Which isn't going to benefit you, at this point.
Peruse the threads about FC turbo upgrades. There're quite a few guys, on here that've done successful upgrades that put down some very respectable numbers and have posted about their builds.
Since it seems that you're catching more flak than helpful advice, you might be better off just putting some footwork in and wearing out the 'search' feature.
While I'm all about trying to help someone out (esp. a fellow soldier), at some point it becomes a conversation, rather than an advice-giving session...
Which isn't going to benefit you, at this point.
10-24-10, 02:22 PM
#37
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Let's just put an end-all with this:
Peruse the threads about FC turbo upgrades. There're quite a few guys, on here that've done successful upgrades that put down some very respectable numbers and have posted about their builds.
Since it seems that you're catching more flak than helpful advice, you might be better off just putting some footwork in and wearing out the 'search' feature.
While I'm all about trying to help someone out (esp. a fellow soldier), at some point it becomes a conversation, rather than an advice-giving session...
Which isn't going to benefit you, at this point.
Peruse the threads about FC turbo upgrades. There're quite a few guys, on here that've done successful upgrades that put down some very respectable numbers and have posted about their builds.
Since it seems that you're catching more flak than helpful advice, you might be better off just putting some footwork in and wearing out the 'search' feature.
While I'm all about trying to help someone out (esp. a fellow soldier), at some point it becomes a conversation, rather than an advice-giving session...
Which isn't going to benefit you, at this point.
10-24-10, 03:58 PM
#41
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10-24-10, 04:22 PM
#42
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twins are a novelty, these days we have ball bearing turbos. what you're after is a large street port and a GT35R. there are a few members on the board that offer nice kits in the mid 3K range.
10-24-10, 04:34 PM
#43
Bingo!!!!!1
FAIL.............
10-25-10, 01:24 PM
#45
well, if you have both turbos, you just need to determine if you have both a male & a female. If you have both, then just stick them under the hood next to each other & the nice warm engine with a bottle of champagne & some candles, and hopefully in 9 months you'll have a bunch more little turbolets running around. Maybe not the quickest way to get twins, but raising your own turbo is so satisfying
10-25-10, 08:43 PM
#46
Banned. I got OWNED!!!
Sure it will be
While this isn't exactly the best setup for street application, I've seen it work fairly well, on the track (great for the ability to hot-swap turbos, depending on the circuit's layout, as well.)
Since you're looking for lower-end response, I'd say do a relatively small turbo that's efficient up to about 10 or 15#. Low lag and good kick.
Bear in mind that other things, such as running a bigger pump and injectors (ntm possibly some snazzy tuning HW) will be required to go big...
Just try not to make the jump from 'Go,' to, 'Blow'.
Since you're wanting more low-end, I'd say go with a good snail that's going to spool quick, but be efficient to 10 or 15#. That way you'll have great response and kick, without the horrendous lag.
Since you're looking for lower-end response, I'd say do a relatively small turbo that's efficient up to about 10 or 15#. Low lag and good kick.
Bear in mind that other things, such as running a bigger pump and injectors (ntm possibly some snazzy tuning HW) will be required to go big...
Just try not to make the jump from 'Go,' to, 'Blow'.
Since you're wanting more low-end, I'd say go with a good snail that's going to spool quick, but be efficient to 10 or 15#. That way you'll have great response and kick, without the horrendous lag.
It is not possible for you to perform the work because you do not know what you are doing. However, you could just pay a professional shop to perform the work, although as already explained by other forum members you would probably be happier with an upgraded single turbo rather than twins. You could have a really nice single turbo setup for about $10,000, or you could go for a cheaper BNR upgrade with supporting fuel modifications. In your case, I recommend sticking with an emissions-friendly setup in case you get stationed in an emissions testing region.
Since the going price of a professional 20B swap is in the $35,000 range, I assume that you are either gettting a large reenlistment bonus or you are gong to be deployed for a very long time. If you are getting a bonus, then try to get it during a month that you are assigned to a combat zone so it will be tax-free. If you are on a long deployment, then I recommend saving your money in a money market account. Actually, I recommend that you fund a Roth IRA or TSP first before wasting every cent of your money on your car, but unfortunately young people usually don't listen to good financial advice like that.
http://www.investopedia.com/universi.../beginner2.asp
Since the going price of a professional 20B swap is in the $35,000 range, I assume that you are either gettting a large reenlistment bonus or you are gong to be deployed for a very long time. If you are getting a bonus, then try to get it during a month that you are assigned to a combat zone so it will be tax-free. If you are on a long deployment, then I recommend saving your money in a money market account. Actually, I recommend that you fund a Roth IRA or TSP first before wasting every cent of your money on your car, but unfortunately young people usually don't listen to good financial advice like that.
http://www.investopedia.com/universi.../beginner2.asp
Sunday is race dayThanks! Appreciate it. I love the Turbo's, need to do some work on the manifold though. It's the bottleneck at this point and I'm making north of 400wheel.
10-26-10, 01:55 AM
#48
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They never listen. Then they come to me when they are 55 years old asking me how they can start planning for retirement. Fortunately, since I am not a financial planner I can tell them truthfully that they are simply f***ed at that point. You would think that it wouldn't take Einstein to see the value of compound interest, but apparently it does. 
That is generally true, but it takes a lot of money or time, effort, and skill to achieve that. Most of the people on this forum are interested in a cheap and easy solution. In contrast, your car has mostly top-notch components, and you have spent countless hours working on it. Also, most of the people on this forum talk a lot of smack about throttle response and boost threshold, but they almost always end up choosing higher boost numbers and neat noises over actual performance. I'm not saying that there is anything wrong with that, but it is what it is.
That is generally true, but it takes a lot of money or time, effort, and skill to achieve that. Most of the people on this forum are interested in a cheap and easy solution. In contrast, your car has mostly top-notch components, and you have spent countless hours working on it. Also, most of the people on this forum talk a lot of smack about throttle response and boost threshold, but they almost always end up choosing higher boost numbers and neat noises over actual performance. I'm not saying that there is anything wrong with that, but it is what it is.
10-26-10, 03:07 AM
#49
run from thee sandvich!!!
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10-26-10, 03:10 AM
#50
the FD has a smal and a big turbo if im correct. At lower rpm turbo 1 does his job, above the biger one takes over.
What i meant with parallel is they both work at the same time. But you do need enough kick out of the exhaust to get them both running.
The time at wide open throttle that the turbo is not working is called lag.
What i meant with parallel is they both work at the same time. But you do need enough kick out of the exhaust to get them both running.
The time at wide open throttle that the turbo is not working is called lag.
you are wrong.