I am going to take a second look at an 88 TII this weekend - it has a little rust (saw the car in the dark the first time) if the rust situation is under control in the daylight then I may be interested in the car, but i definitely want to do a compression test.

Can some one tell me how to do the test myself?

Thanks,

Also does any one know any good websites for the 87-88 TII's ??

Thanks again

 

the compression test tool for rotary engine is different from regular piston engine..and that's just what i heard on the forum..i never seen one or used one b4..

anyway don't count one me

 

http://www.teamfc3s.org/info/articles/compression.html gives details on how to do it, but if you do the modification to the tester he talks about you'll mess up the tester. I don't think you need to remove that valve.

 

Gixxer,

A friend of mine said that if you pull out all four plugs and have someone crank the car, listen for the air rushing out the spark plug holes.

If all the "sounds" sound the same...then chances are that you've got good compression. If they're not all the same sounding, then depending on the pattern that they make, they've got one of the seals broke.

But still...go get a compression test...

 

Using a standard compression tester, pull the egi fuse, pull the top (trailing) plug, screw in the compression tester. Have a friend floor the gas and turn the car over. While the car is spinning over hold down the check valve on the tester and check for compression. The gauge will "bump", each bump is a compression cycle. You should have three consistent "bumps". They should all run around the same lbs. If you have one high and two low you have a bad apex seal, which is a good candidate for the ATF trick. Two high and one low would be a bad side seal, time for a rebuild. If they are all low the engine is probably tired and ready for a refresh.
hanman

 

Thanks for the tips.