AUGieDogie

iTrader: (4)

OK so my alarm keeps going off while im driving!!!!! Horn sounds beeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeep,flashers come on and the secruity light comes on in the dash.

So how can i turn this off? Don't tell me that the key in the ingnition turns it off becaus if im driving that one doesn't work. I know that it is probably the ECU, but until i get a spare its kinda annoying.

any help?

RXJIM

iTrader: (3)

Unplug the control module. If its on the S4 it's under the dash pass. side.

AUGieDogie

iTrader: (4)

Sorry shoulda said it was an S5 with everything built into the CPU
if i pull the module nothing will work. Stop lights blinkers etc...

NCross

iTrader: (18)

remove the horn ..... find a wiring diagram and cut the wire(s) that signal the flashing lights.

Just out of curiosity... do your interior lights stay on? You know like when you open your door and your dome light comes on? The only 2 things that can cause it to go off is if something is tripping it (hatch sensor, door sensors, unlocking the inside of the doors by reaching inside the car) and if there is a wiring/soldering issue.

Icemark

Since the factory alarm has a lock out when the key is in or On and should not arm in either, are you sure that it is the factory alarm acting up???

Unplug the top plug to the CPU after you disarm the alarm by turning the key in the door to unlock. You'll only loose minor things doing that

NCross

iTrader: (18)

try unpluggin the hazard switch... my car used to randomly flash lights while driving down the raod. I unplugged it and it fixed the problem. Just get a new hazard switch if that is the issue.

although it wont explain the horns.

Icemark

and the Hazard switch on the FC is part of thw wiper switch...

Advice like that for other cars seldom works on Mazdas

AUGieDogie

iTrader: (4)

Ok heres the update.

Yesterday when i started up the car to let it warm up, the horn and the headlights came on. They where not flashing just steady. No flashers. I pulled one of the fuses in the engine bay to shut them off, because they stayed on after i turned off the ignition. I could still start and drive the car after that but after a few mins the horn and lights did the same thing. This time i noticed that the security light came on when it was doing this. I pulled the fuse and then put it back in just like befor to get it home. With only a couple of random beeps on the way.

Today Iwent out to start the car while i had it idleing I noticed that the horn was not working. No biggy, after a few mins. BEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEp same as before.

I swaped out the CPU with the one from my other convertible. And it wouldn't start at all. Now the alarm in that car has Never worked so I fugured that the CPU just doesn't have a working Alarm and that my other car somehow has it rewired.

ANYWAY I had to drive to work and since my hard top is wont start and my other vert is in peices, i will just deal with the alarm.

I got up the street and at the first light it started to beep, this time the flashers came on too and the security light came on in the dasy. I turned off the car so that i wouldn't get beat up by the biker gang in front of my (well a school bus but still) and when the light changed it wouldn't restart at that point it was just acting like the factory alarm was going off and I couldn't turn if off.

SOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO

Any Ideas????

AUGieDogie

iTrader: (4)

I did unplug the top plug before starting the car and the CPU started to smoke!!!!

NCross

iTrader: (18)

figure out what wires control the alarm and cut them?

Icemark

first, S5 convertible and S5 coupe CPU's (body computers) are not interchangeable.

And unplugging something does not cause a CPU to smoke. However using the wrong CPU can.

So, besides plugging in the wrong CPU, what is disconnected or wired incorrectly?

Icemark

You need to stop posting in this thread because you have no clue to what you are posting about.

The alarm on a S5 is built into the CPU (body computer). Cutting the wires, also kills the body computer, which as covered earlier in this thread disables things like the horn, high beams, warnings, turn signals, etc.

AUGieDogie

iTrader: (4)

Ice the cpu numbers are the same. FC66 i have two 91 convertibles.

and beleive me it did smoke. all the connections but the top one where in and as i was trying to start it, i don't think the horn was on, it just wouldn't go. After about 15 secs i noticed a wisp of smoke coming up my door and it was coming from the cpu, top section either out the plug hole or out the sides and back. cant remember as i was rushing for the fuse.

When I installed the second FC66 CPU from my other vert. It would not start at all. The Dash lights would come on and it would not start. As i said the alarm has never worked in that car so i figured some one did something to that one to bypass. (who knows). That CPU is now back in the other car and i starts just fine.

BUT back to the problem car.
I just went out to the car. I had the alarm on, as it is parked on the street. The light was flashing as it should. I turned off the alarm with the door lock. Light stoped flashing and i got in. All was well. When i put the key in the ignition and turn it all the lights come on as normal, but the horn sounds constent, if i try to start the car, it will not start. The security light is on constent on the dash.

Icemark

Ah, okay two verts FC66 cpus.

The FC66 is the worst of the bunch since it also controls things like the headlights and even turning off the turn signals and is the least reliable CPU Imansen ever made for Mazda.

If you just unplug the two top plugs, it should disable the entire alarm section (and horn and headlights) of the CPU. But you still should be drive the car and have the turn signals work (but not much more).

Once you have confirmed that works, and the alarm is no longer going off, then you'll need to try tracing out the harnesss. However I expect that the CPU that the Genie escaped from will be history and you will need to replace the main board in it (mazdatrix has it under $100 last I checked).

But it is acting like there is a wiring short in the car. That needs to be fixed before trying anything else. You will need to confirm in the middle plug that it is getting the signal from the ignition and ignition key sensor.

eriksseven

iTrader: (6)

Wow Augie... Your problem sounds like a frikkin' nightmare. Wish I could help, but I'm not a technical guru like Mark or HAILERS, lol.

AUGieDogie

iTrader: (4)

So Ice, the board you are talking about is the big board in the cpu, yes? I havn't opened it up but it looks like there are two, one small, light realay and the other one is the large one that controls everything else. So what is involved in changing them out? will they just pop in or do i need to de solder them and then resolder them? 80 bucks at mazdatrix isn't all that bad for a new board so i might go that way. First im going to open mine up and see if any traces or resistors are burned ou.

I saw on another CPU post that you mention the thes cpus arent sealed as well as others and that moisture gets in. It has been VERY wet here these last two weeks and since my vert leaks pretty bad, i'd be willing to bet that water condensed in there some where and shorted something. Just a quess but hey tell me if it sounds right or that Im completely loony. You are THE man on electrical stuff so i'll take your word.

Thanks
AUGie

Icemark

Yep, just one screw holding the back panel on for the big main board. no need to de-solder anything.

and yep the CPUs are not sealed, and it is very easy to get wet and short out internally if you have windsheild and head leaks on the vert. The only thing, that bugs me still is that both your FC66 CPUs worked the same way. Unless both were wet, or bad; one should have worked fine, while the other had problems.

AUGieDogie

iTrader: (4)

OK so i pulled the cpu out today which let me start the car and get it up the hill into my driveway. No alarm no problems, but of course no signals at such either. No biggie, at least its off the street.

I pulled the board out on it and it looks like I have at least one burned resistor, and maybe a burned cap, cant tell for sure if they are burned are just really badly corroded. So I'm going to order a new board from Mazda trix.

Icemark

Plug the bottom two plugs back into the CPU and then the turn signals should work again

AUGieDogie

iTrader: (4)

YUp i was going to do that one tommorow.

311unity13B

i disabled mine by unplugging and grounding out the hatch switches, so the car thinks the hatch is open, and wont set off the alarm, then i just removed the bulb from the cluster...done

staticguitar313

iTrader: (2)

^ thats really ghetto, fix it right.

311unity13B

i dont care if its ghetto, it works, and i dont need it and its easy, been working for 2 years now

AUGieDogie

iTrader: (4)

Won't work with my prboblem. As Ice said above its supposed to have a lock out with the car is running and that isn't happening in mine so it has to be something else.

I ordered a new board for it today and im just going to replace that one, after i check a few wires to make sure they aren't the problem. Im pretty sure its just the crappy FC66 CPU.


And Isn't your hatch warning light on the dash on all the time now or did the bulb burn out after 2 months?

NCross

iTrader: (18)

if you take the bulb out it doesn't come on