I've got an 87.5 Turbo II with all of the basic bolt-ons, 9:4:1 rotors and a street-port.

I recently did a full emissions removal (including the BAC) and have been learning (slowly) about the different idle-control systems, how they work and how to disable them. Well, just today I decided to undertake the full TB-mod as shown by Kevin Landers website-- rotaryresurrection.com and RETed's website-- fc3spro.com.

Included in the TB mod is the removal of the Thermowax and the fast-idle cam stuff etc. My goal in doing the TB-mod was to get ONE SOLID IDLE--ALL THE TIME. But I'm still dealing with the high(er) 1000 RPM idle when coming to a stop, that drops to a normal 800 RPM's if I wait 10 seconds or so and put the car into gear...

What's the deal? What's preventing my Turbo II from having just ONE idle-speed? I've heard the term "clutch switch", but I don't know if this is the same thing. Either way, whatever it is--I want it GONE.

BTW, I'm sure this is a common problem that people deal with all the time--but I don't quite no what to search for. Neither fc3spro.com or rotaryresurrection.com mention anything about the 'two-stage' idle and I saw no mention of this problem in my 'TB mod' searching or 'high idle' searching...

Imput?

 

Huh... So I just spent the past hour searching many different 'word strings' for my high-idle issue--but I found no helpful information regarding my question. Also, it appears as if the 'clutch switch' doesn't have anything to do with my issue where the car actually has to be put in gear before the idle will drop... And yes, I realize that Friday night is not really the best time to ask a technical question.

 

lol @ the Friday night remark. That would be true but I got **** faced last week, no more drinking for me.

The idle is your throttle plate position in the TB. Some times it doesn’t shut completely all the way. It is just that way or maybe more sever and a little gummy in there from the oxidation of the linkage or oil from PCV.

 

What about the dashpot? That will keep the rpms up a bit, but that is used to help keep your throttle plates from slamming shut.

The only switchs that I can think of on the tranny is the neutral switch, back-up light and 5th switch.

Hope this helps......

 

It's dropping because of the additional load from being put in gear (even with the clutch in), this would imply to me that you need to check your throttle cable (make sure it's got slack in it), adjust TPS, check all of your tranny sensors themselves (neutral switch, etc). And then forget about it and deal with it. If the car runs WTF are you complaining about!? IT's a rotary! Be happy it ain't dead yet!

 

um.. you know thre is a switch in your tranmsition that tells the ecu that its in i think first or reverse. you ould try dissabling it maybee?

 

I'd relax man. You dont need one idle speed all the time. If it is your throttle plates you could try putting either a double spring or one heavy return spring. But to tell you the truth there are no results on searching this stuff cause its pointless. I can't see it causing any problems. I would leave it alone.

 

Just leave it alone to work the way it should. The ECU idles the engine a little faster immediately after starting and it will drop to a normal speed if you leave it. It will also drop to normal earlier if you put it in gear, so that it doesn't upset the way the car drives.

 

I just don't like how it burbles and idle's slightly rough at 1000RPM's... It's just kind of annoying.

I lowered the idle just a tad, so now it does a slighty rough 900RPM high-idle before dropping to the "real" 700RPM idle. Better, but still lame that there's no real way to control it.

 

Probably a minor vac leak. I doubt it did it when new.

There's no car in the world that lets you do what you want, so there's nothing lame about it. If you want full control over your idle speed, get a standalone.